Coach-Z

Hi Brokin,

I've just ordered a new set of 20T spur pulleys to decrease the internal ratio to 1.9.

I've also ordered new 66T/48P and 68T/48P spur gears as well as bunch of 48P pinion gears, ranging from 30T to 36T

This should get me near the 3.500 FDR that I'm aiming for.

I'll start with the smallest pinion and work my way up as I get better at keeping the car on the track at the new speeds I'll be able to achieve ;-).

Really appreciate the help BTW.

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

Excellent, smart way to go about it, work your way up to speed...don't forget, you can never do enough testing

Always a pleasure to help

Coach-Z

The gears and pulleys has arrived... Unfortunately the pulley is to big for my standard belts.


I've tried to adjust the belt tensioner to make it as loose as possible, but it is still not enough.

I guess I need new larger belts. Do you know which belts I need for a 38/20 pulley combination?

If you could add a link to a place that sells them, that would be much appreciated.




All is not a loss though, I've put in the new 68T spur gear, which smaller size has allowed med to add a 33T pinion, for starters...

Ive tried to figure out the difference in speed between the new an old gearing, using gearchart.com, but I can't figure out what the rpm of my 13.5 turn Robitronic motor is.

Here's a link to the specs of the motor:
http://www.robitronic.com/files/manu...nformation.pdf

As far as I can tell by the pdf file, it says it has an RPM of 3.100, but that can't be right???

Haven't tested it on the track yet, but will try and go out tomorrow.

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

A Main Hobbies - [email protected]
1-800-705-2215 (Toll-Free) 1-530-894-0797 (Int'l & Local) 1-530-894-9049 (Fax)
http://www.amainhobbies.com
Twitter: twitter.com/amainhobbies Facebook - facebook.com/amainhobbies

You can get all your Xray gear here

Start at 30 rollout & check your temp's every 2mins...just gear up till you reach acceptable temp level for your motor & track conditions

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

.

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

I ran a recently rebuilt 008 at a club meet last night

It was a 21.5 I entered in stock, ( new 17.5 motor hadn't arrived as yet) at one stage q'd 10th out of 19 but that wasn't the important bit

This 08, with many little extras is the best Xray I've run in my 4 short years of racing & I had them all from FK05 up to T3 2011

Begs the question, why buy a new car, put the effort into getting a car exactly right & do continual improvements

Coach-Z

Which upgrades would you recommend for the T2'008?

Skynet

Well, touring cars wear out... You buy a new one because the old one is worn out, eg. the chassis is tweaked, the dampers are bad, small parts are worn out... Of course you can buy a new chassis, new dampers and so on, but you will still get a better car if you buy it completly new.
Besides, a new car will have better handling. Xray launched the T3'11 because it do have better handling, more steering, less tweak when steering etc. than the previos car.

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

The Following.....
Asphalt top deck or Atomic 2.0mm deck
Schumacher ceramic bearing where they'll fit (cheaper & much better)
T3 Knuckles in x-hard
6deg caster blocks (med)
TRF shocks mounted 2mm foward on front
Alloy lower shock plates
Alloy rear dog bones
HI/2 links at front..L1/2 links at rear
Set up per book then adjust to suit your track...easy once you get a handle on it

The stock race on Friday night featured all the brands, T3 11, 416X, TOP etc & guess what won... a T2 007 (one of our group too!)

I was once like you, consumer thinking, new has too be better, no so!

Skynet

Yeah yeah, that depends on what level the racers are at... I'm talking more serious racing, eg. the Snow Bird race: you won't have a T2 007 in the A-main mod there, not even in the C-final, that's for sure

But club racing may work with old cars, it all depends on what level you're at

PDR TOO

iTrader: (24)

I agree that the T3 2011 is obviously a great car. It is very popular at my club and everyone who drives one comments on how good it is out of the box. However, If I’m not mistaken this is the T2 ‘008 thread. You will most likely find that the people on this thread are either;

1. On a tight budget and cannot afford to change chassis when a thread strips in the front steering knuckle; or

2. Are not quite at the standard of racing Mod at Snowbirds.

Personally I fit in both camps - I upgraded from a 2nd hand ‘007 to a 2nd hand ‘008. I really enjoy learning to set up and drive on my ‘008. There are some really experienced X-ray drivers in the clubs that I race at, who are always willing to help with the tips they have learned for the older chassis.

That is not to say the ‘008 is not competitive - quite the contrary really. Even I made the A Mains at a recent sanctioned event at my local club.

In fact one of the fastest guys in our club still races a ‘009 in Mod and he is often on the podium at sanctioned events.

Sure I would like to try a T3 2011, but I don’t have a lazy $500 at the moment. So let’s stick to trying to get the most out of our ‘008’s and have some fun.

T3_PASSION

iTrader: (1)

What size are the original spur pulleys and what are the part #

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

20 tooth, 305577, nexus racing usa shop

Coach-Z

Just a little update.

If you decide to go for a 38/20 pulley set, you will need larger belts than the ones that came with the car.

You need 513mm at the front and 189mm at the back.

For me though, I actually have enough speed right now with the 68T spur and the 32T pinion I'm running right now. Still just aiming for keeping the car on the track, just map I don't have to go get it out of the grass and bushes every two minutes.

I'm still gonna swap the pulleys when I get the new belts though, cause that keeps the front belt clear of the pinion set screw.

PDR TOO

iTrader: (24)

COACH-Z

I am no expert on things electrical, however looking at the various manufacturers web sites, as far as I can see the 3,100 you are quoting is the RPM/Volt (Kv). The standard looks to be derived by measurement at 7.2volts over a set period of time.

This would see your motor’s nominal upper rev level at around 22,000.

Looking at the LRP site, their 13.5 motors are stated to rev at around 22,000, which is consistent with this calculation.