gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

i have the same problem with a 100 tooth spur and 40 tooth pinion for the us edition. i had to put the allen thru the battery slot at an angle to get at the motor screw. does anyone know of smaller grub screws (for the pinion) like the one in the kit but with the bigger type of thread, not the fine thread.

adamge

iTrader: (1)

I just posted the mod 008US foam carpet setup I ended up with today. It's inspired by Paul's latest setup, though I was going by memory so it isn't duplicated exactly. Finally I had the mod car working.

I find the box setup impossible to drive in mod. I find it hooks/spins really bad in deceleration and initial steer. In stock that situation never occurs, because you never have to slow down before you start steering. It's like the front tires have massive traction at initial steer, and the rears don't develop any cornering traction until the car has set up in the corner. Paul pulled out pretty much all the stops to kill front steering traction at initial turn-in, and I think it's fixed the car.


Also, I 'felt up' and 'had my way with' a Phi today. That car was literally twice as stiffly sprung and damped as we run our foam Xrays. It also has the upper links moved inwards by almost 1cm, though angles and relative lengths are very similar.
I drove it (27t), and it was vastly different. It had a wild initial steer, then immediately turned into a push monster. It would only steer once you got way off the throttle to slow down and transfer more weight to the front tires. Whereas my 008 stock will steer at full throttle, and I give a slight lift near the apex to get

-Adam

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

correction... the 3600 is a tad bit shorter than the 4800. so you don't need to shim the topdeck on the T2'007.

Mini Toink

iTrader: (30)

Great thanks!

Want to see a 3600 on a T2'008 though



Toink

Kane-o

iTrader: (12)

Adam,
I had the exact same problem as you racing 19T at our club racing Edmonton this Friday. I tried the box set-up and I found it hard to drive. I added some rear droop and camber and it did improve things. I managed to TQ and win by 3 laps over 2nd place but it seemed as if I was fighting the car. For Lethbridge I may go slightly softer in the rear to aid in weight transfer to prevent that hooking/spin out situation you described.
-Kane

adamge

iTrader: (1)

I'll see you there.

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Well, changes to the camber links and raising the hub links helped as did removing some of the screws to allow more flex in the chassis. Need to get csome more roll bars and some springs
Its taken a while to adapt my driving to the new car - its so much more responsive than my old Mi3. I'm really pleased i mad the change!
Also I never knew how much rebound can effect cornering until today - Thanks Brian!
Made the B but the car was more than capable of a A final place, just the thumbs I have to work on now!
Thanks again Jonny!

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

CERAMIC Thrust Ball Bearings for XRAY T2'008

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone have any tips for building the shocks I am having problems with air bubbles and have never had this with any other shocks I have built.

I am building them as per manual but not having any luck

Kane-o

iTrader: (12)

I have never had problems with air in Xray shocks but be sure to let them sit long enough so all the air can escape, screw the top cap on quickly, and when adjusting rebound move the shock shaft in and out slowly so you don't force any air into the shock body.
-Kane

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

Before you put the shock shaft/piston assembly into the new/dry shock body, put some oil is the shock body. Yes, it will start to run out, but it gets oil down in the bottom first instead of trapping more air that has to bleed out.

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

i fixed it. i just took the smallest grub screw from a 26 tooth pinion and ground it down and then at a 45 degree angle and now it is flush with the pinion.BELT SAVER....
by the way i ran it with a stock brushless and it is awesome, it has all the steering needed.

RLMW VQ

iTrader: (11)

im having troulbe with my shocks everytime i rebuilt them they still make the sound like they are empty, also i have two different kinds of shock bodys why one has threads that go all the why up and one the dont what is the difference. also what is the difference with the bladers one set is small and one is big. also what does ae oil 60 = in xray and ae 40= to xray and losi 30= to xray and 70= to xray. if any one can help that would be great. thanks

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

I actually dont use the xray method and get better results personally. Some people love the xray method. I always screw it up somehow. So I fill the shock, let the air bubbles settle out.(I also use the "ride" vacume pump) and screw on the shock cap/bladder assy till just before the rubber bladder seats. With the hole in the shock cap pointed up and the shock at a 45 degree angle. push the shock shaft slowly up till air /oil come out. first try i usually get about 75% rebound without air that i can hear or feel.

Cheers.

Patrick

Note, only works on stock 008 shocks, or drilled 007 shocks

ghost rider

help guys
what do the diffs do up in the car,front & rear,and then i put them to down front & rear,:
which way is best for grip & handling,etc: