Bluey_74

iTrader: (5)

I know its Normally a case of not hitting anything, and therefor not breaking anything, but is there anyone driving the '08 tempted just to change over to the alloy steeering blocks just cos it worked last time?
Are they even the same part as the '007

rraden

iTrader: (259)

Just remember, in a crash the weakest part will break first. Since aluminum is stronger that moves the weakest part to something else, arms, hinge pins, chassis, etc. Aluminum steering blocks should be OK but I would be weary of aluminum C-hubs. Also, aluminum bends instead of breaking, so you could bend a part and not know it. Therefore chasing a poor handling car and not being able to identify the problem easily.

Team Ash

iTrader: (22)

Not everyone is perfect. Even sparksy the xmas cup winner broke stuff. More than 1 block. By the way do you actually follow my posts just to try to discredit them? Even when I try to help others your negative And if you think the 007 is durable try any of the T1's and you will see what durability means.

rcstunt101

iTrader: (16)

I was not trying to put you down dude, settle...... I have only been running stock so i see why im not breaking all that many parts, and the track is very easy to break parts on in some parts such as the center chicane bit. I am comparing the 007 to my previous car the mi2ec which i broke many many parts. I know the T1 were bullet proof. I had one for a street basher/drifter.

rcstunt101

iTrader: (16)

It seems they are the same
T2,008 T2,007 T2R
T2 ALU STEERING BLOCK WITH BEARINGS o o o

with the o meaning optional. You can get the cross reference table from http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?t=2872

By the way terry, did you end up seeing if the TA05 alu steering blocks fitted the 007? Seems a much cheaper alternative if it works.

*Chrominator*

iTrader: (19)

I realize what your saying that's why I was wondering which part would be better Aluminum.
The steering block is the easiest to replace , so would en it be better if the C-hub was the stronger of the two ?

rraden

iTrader: (259)

Personally, I would stay away from aluminum C-hubs. They are the most prone to bend in a crash and expensive. I would buy the aluminum steering blocks and stick with the plastic C-hubs. Just my 2 cents.

sparksy

iTrader: (14)

Whilst the aluminium parts look the goods, and I'm dying to "bling" up my 008, I wouldn't even contimplate putting them on.

They are just way too expensive, and like others have said, it makes something else the weak link. For the price of one ally knuckle, you can get 4 or 5 of the regular ones. I actually like knowing that the knuckle and/or 'C' hub break before the arms and hinge pins. They are the two easiest and quickest parts to change if required, and neither require you to adjust droop etc after the change out.

The other thing to think about is how much grip you will loose with them, and the extra unsprung weight. I'm sure though there would be times where they would work well.

Best thing is a decent bumper. The kit bumper is very soft. rcstunt has saved many breakages due to his Pdub bumper. The wide lower plastic bumper will also save the front suspension from alot of impact from track boarders etc.


Ash, stunt.. I'm keen to get a pdub bumper, you guys interested in one if I order?

rcstunt101

iTrader: (16)

Yeah come to think of it, that bumper has probably saved me a few steering blocks etc. Its super hard and light and i think one of the major things it is considerably wider than the stock bumper, it even extends to past the steering blocks and c hubs. And yeah, im in for another one...

sparksy

iTrader: (14)

Cool. I'll look into it. I guess joel and waz will want one too. have we got anyother xray drivers?

*Chrominator*

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'm getting frustrated with how easy this T2 breaks front steering blocks and C-hubs.

I've only raced this T2 about 6-7 times in last year or so , I race off-road ever week, and I'm pretty good driver off -road and I seem to be not to bad at on- road , I hardly ever crash or hit any thing that hard, but It seems to break ether the steering block or the C-hub or both every time I've raced it.

One of the Local pro drivers at my track suggested the Pdub bumper awhile back , so I got one , and I still broke both parts this last time out, with a hit that didn't seem that hard.

Any way, I guess I will try the Alum. steering blocks, as I asked earlier does anyone else make one beside Xray and Team Tamale ?

I like the price of the Tamale, but every time I have check his web site , It says they are out of stock.

Goingfast

iTrader: (29)

Broke the frontC hub with the Pdub bumperYou must hit the wall just right

sparksy

iTrader: (14)

The other thing is how your track is built. If only we all ran on purpose built tracks with grass infields and ripple strips instead or hard pipe borders and wooden boards.

Whilst I havent broken the 007 all that much.. My breakage count is 1 x C hub, 1 x front knuckle, 2 x diff pullies, and 3 rear belts. And I've been running a 4.5 or 3.5 for the whole year except for 3 races with a 13.5. I'm very happy with the durability of the car. The pullies were from picking up shit from the track, same with the belts.

Our track has PVC piping as track boarders and plough disks on most apex. Running the standard bumper setup I've been bery lucky. The front breakages were both nicking a pvc pipe with the inner front wheel while it was turned in. Not overly hard hits, more of a glancing blow but at speed.

I guess my point is, I think alot of guys automatically blame the car for being fragile. When you stop and think about just how small the parts are and the speed these little suckers go, breakages are inevitable. They are part of all racing. If your breaking lots of parts all the time, its time to slow down and work on your driving. Not just skill, but choosing the more safe racing line for the tack, waiting to pass cleanly and without contact. Racing smarter to ensure you finish. I qualifed 10th at a nitro tourer state event not too long ago, and ended up 4th in the A final, finishing ahead of quite a number of factory drivers. Purely because I finished. Their broken parts and engine trouble paid off for me.

I'm not a national champion driver, and could not hold a pit towel for any of the big names in terms of skill. But I like my car to be as fast as it can be. That means light, nimble and overpowered. A recipie for breaking shit. But you can't bullet proof it completely and expect to be fast. The important thing though is having fun. Fixing your car between every round and not finishing races isnt fun, nor is the wife finding out just how much you have spent in the last few weeks on your toy car. (women just don't understand..)

Jeeze, This post turned out way longer than intended. Staying at the in-laws for christmas so it looks like this is my release.

Mdoc

iTrader: (29)

honestly, if you get rid of the extra threads that stick out past the nut on your front axles you will be very suprised at how much it helps.......

Team Ash

iTrader: (22)

I have been thinking of getting rid of those threads for a while. I will combine that with the pDub bumper and cross my fingers.
I am a nooby racer and believe it or not my breakeages have got worse as I improve. This is because as I improve my driving I find myself getting quicker and tightening my lines. All my breaks have been from clipping inside corners but I am hoping as I improve more the breaks will get fewer. Its all a learnig curve and just a part of racing so it doesn't bother me. There are a lot bigger problems in my world than a few rc car parts.