Jeremy Otis

I am not 100% sure on this but if you plan on racing in a major event I don't believe ROAR rules will allow any type of holes cut in the bodies.

islander360

iTrader: (42)

CarlosG,

Here is my asphalt setup from Sunday.

InspGadgt

Yeah that has been a question in my mind...I believe the body is ROAR legal but wonder if they got some sort of exemption to that rule for the vent holes.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Ahh Bob...always good for a laugh. Like dad always told us, lead with the chin yer gonna get pasted.

That would be GREAT if you guys could make it down. Should be plenty of track time available. We'll even stay late.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Car was dialed once again Jason. Struggled a bit in the steering dept. for the 2 quals but for the Main, the DB12R saw glory once again.

Since the weather has been a bit on the cold side this week, the track lost some grippage. Figured I had to soften up the front-end, so from the set-up I posted, I went to Magenta fronts/ 1mm of front droop/ back to.22 springs/ 2mm of rear uptravel--Boom!! Car got back that corner speed I liked but the really cool thing is that, I smoked my fast main of last week. Went from like a 41/8:09 to a 43/8:11!! On the 19th lap I was on a 45/8:10 pace but between the (3) 12.1 sec laps and a disastrous 16.6 sec lap, I did what I could with a 'tweaked' front-end. Used a buddy's Niftech tool and realized I had to add a axle shim on the spur side to get it even side to side. Damn, that's a neat little tool.

All in all though, a killer night

This car continues to amaze me....I'm thinking about giving up TC

- JBizzle

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Thanks again for the feedback bro. Im glad things are going well.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Just finished building my DB12R last night. The only problem I ran into was the delrin cap for the IRS center shock was machined incorrectly. I fought with the damned thing for half an hour trying to get it to thread all of the way in before I finally said screw it and pulled one of the end caps off of one of my CRC durashocks. Fit like a charm. Other than that, I enjoyed building the car. I noticed quite a few things in the manual that didn't make any sense or were missing, but it wasn't exactly hard to figure out. I had downloaded a copy of the manual before I received my kit, and the version I downloaded seemed to have some changes to it. here's what I noticed in my manual-

1.) The manual starts with assembling the front end of the car. It then says to bolt the front end to the chassis. A few steps later, it tells you to sand/seal the chassis...

2.) In neither manual is there a step that involves bolting the upper pod plate(graphite) to the car. (I read through about 20 times in each manual looking for it)

3.) The center shock mount has 3 holes on the chassis. The manual just says "attach it". I used the 2 rearmost holes.

4.) The 5th axle shim. I assume this was meant to go between the axle flange and the flanged bearing that the spur gear rides on?? Hope so, 'cause that's where it went.

Overall, I'm in love with the car and I haven't even driven it yet. Most of our club races are run on an blown, unsealed parking lot. The pavement is a little rough (a pair of pink rears last about 2 weekends at the most) and traction is pretty low. touring cars don't have a problem, but 12th scales occasionally do. Are there any changes that you guys tend to make to the standard setup when running on low traction outdoor tracks??

Ferrarimk13

yeah, i had a problem with the carbon fiber as well, i sanded it first because thats what i knew to do, but i rarely seal it, so when the step came up like halfway through, i was like this guy -> i was already done with most steps, so i still haven't disassembled it and sealed it.

InspGadgt

Well sealing the chassis these days isn't nearly as important as it was back when I first started. Today's graphite/carbon fiber is of much higher quaility then it was 10+ years ago. The layers are much closer together and less likely to split. It's still a good idea to do it though

windsor

Got a question for you pros on this car. I am going to be laying the servo flat on this car but if i use the rear holes, the tie rods are angled back a bit is that ok or should I bump the servo up to the front hole or attach the tie rods on the front of the servo saver so they are straight. Any help would be wonderful. Thanks kindly!

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Put the ballstuds on the front of the servo saver if you use the rear servo holes.

windsor

Thank you very much sir!!!!

mrrcguy

iTrader: (25)

I too am planning to switch my servo to the flat position. Is this likely to make the steering to agressive? (med-high bite asphalt)

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Actually, running the servo flat will tone the twitchy steering feel. When set up correctly(medium ballstuds on the steering blocks), you will have a slight bit of bump toe in which will give the steering a bit of a numb feel. This has always been the way i run my car on carpet. I dont like running the servo flat outdoors. I like the added aggressive feel of the angled servo in the lower bite conditions.

windsor

Having a little trouble, It looks like the tie rod is going to hit the pin that connects the upper arm and castor block. any suggestions? Does it matter on the se car? I am using the futaba S9650. And the servo mounts are in the correct hole.