Originally Posted by Scottrik

Hey Chris,

Some may have issue with this, but when I brought it up a while back, either here or on the 1/12 thread (or both), most seemed in agreement. I've taken to balancing the main plate of the chassis with the electronics on it and ignoring the rear pod and motor. Unlike a T(axi) C(ab) we use a solid axle--regardless the weight side-to-side both tires are flat on the "road" and the rear axle is as level as your tire size is even. An extreme example would be that you could tape another motor on top of one rear tire and you wouldn't affect tweak.

What WILL affect tweak, though, is putting electronics onto the main plate in an effort to balance the rear pod out. Yes you can get the tweak to even out, but you will have different pressures on the tweak screws/springs (and this should show up even more on the "tweakless" BMI) and can manifest itself as different ride heights side-to-side. We're not talking about anything enormous here, but a difference.

In a perfect situation the rear pod would balance too but, as Brian Bodine found when he experimented with a mass-centered motor pod, it wasn't worth the effort. There was no effect on handling, it only evened up the VERY modest difference in tire wear across the rear. This wear is more easily compensated for by rotating the tires side-to-side every run or two.

When balancing I've gone on the theory that the stuff that's symetric (front suspension, hardware on the sides (hockey sticks, etc), body mounts (anything you install equal numbers of on both sides) can be left off. I've done it both ways now and obtained the same result. I do install the antenna mount as it affects placement. The IRS buttons work perfectly inserted in the rearmost hole for the battery brace. I sure wish the buttons didn't have the hole in the face--it cuts their "sensitivity" enormously. I've almost found it easier in this regard to have the front suspension mounted, etc, just to help overcome the "flat face" the hole creates on-center.

Using this method I've built 3 DB12R's now (and a CRAPLOAD of 3.2R's, a Darkside, etc, but you have to drill your holes for these) and these cars all track dead straight on or off the power as long as the diff is adjusted properly. A fact I attribute to using the Niftech alignment tool is that every time I throw a brand new car on the track I never have to adjust the trim and it drives perfectly straight hands-off every time. I've taken to counting on that--it just does. On to worrying about something else.

Now if I could just learn to drive...

Originally Posted by sneak191

Does anyone know where I can get an aluminum and or titanium screw set for the BMI 1/12th scale?

Thanks in advance.

Peter

Originally Posted by odpurple

We package an OD Racing combination screw set with Lunsford Ti screws for all the bottom screws and any color anodized aluminum screws for the top screws. We also have all Ti and all Aluminum sets. See www.OD12.com for contact info

Originally Posted by fatbear

Can anyone explain to me the difference in adjusting the side damper oil thickness as compared to adjusting the L plate thickness?


I am working on a setup for VERY VERY LOW traction carpet. Would anyone like to take a guess at what they think a good setup would be?