BMI's DB12R
#4546
#4547
quote on rcchat in the UK re static camber
the guy that posted made the B final
does/can the above happen with the AE front end?
I'm of to check mine now
the guy that posted made the B final
As a side note, I encountered the following;
On friday morning in Germany I had a quick look at Andy Moores car, and noticed that he had a different setting for static caster on each side of the front end. On one side he had the thick washer at the back and the thin one at the front of the caster block. However, it was the opposite on the other side. I asked him why, and he told me to measure the static castor at the kingpin, which I did, and it turned out to be the same on both sides. I checked mine, and had 1 degree on one side and over 5 degrees on the other!
The problem is caused by the upper wishbone turnbuckes - they are difficult to screw in perfectly straight, and this results in the top pivot ball moving forwards or backwards altering the static castor!
Instead of running different shims either side, I tweaked mine with a pair of beefy pliers, and it made the car miles more consistent, and got rid of the tweak I thought it had that I spent most of the day looking for!
On friday morning in Germany I had a quick look at Andy Moores car, and noticed that he had a different setting for static caster on each side of the front end. On one side he had the thick washer at the back and the thin one at the front of the caster block. However, it was the opposite on the other side. I asked him why, and he told me to measure the static castor at the kingpin, which I did, and it turned out to be the same on both sides. I checked mine, and had 1 degree on one side and over 5 degrees on the other!
The problem is caused by the upper wishbone turnbuckes - they are difficult to screw in perfectly straight, and this results in the top pivot ball moving forwards or backwards altering the static castor!
Instead of running different shims either side, I tweaked mine with a pair of beefy pliers, and it made the car miles more consistent, and got rid of the tweak I thought it had that I spent most of the day looking for!
I'm of to check mine now
#4548
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
That is very true. I always check my castor reguardless of shim locations. I usually adjust the turnbuckle angle instead of offset the shims. This way i will know when something is bent or messed up. It can happen on any of the 1/12th front ends with the exception of the speedmerchant formula front end being that there is 2 upper turnbuckles to adjust the castor and camber.
#4549
Tech Champion
I can't wait to race mine If all goes well it will be raced for the first time this weekend
#4550
Adrian, check your PM's
#4553
Tech Initiate
Been reading most of the 12th scale threads, and decided to get the DB12R but it's not for sale in www.bmiracing.com
When will the kit be back in stock? Someone told me this kit would be best in asphalt...any comments? How about the 12L4 or the upcoming 12R5 and the Gen-X? Not trying to sabotage your thread just want opinions.
T-Bar or Link is best for asphalt?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
When will the kit be back in stock? Someone told me this kit would be best in asphalt...any comments? How about the 12L4 or the upcoming 12R5 and the Gen-X? Not trying to sabotage your thread just want opinions.
T-Bar or Link is best for asphalt?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#4554
Did you try the Online Store link on the left hand side of the main page? Then choose "Cars" under Categories in the upper left hand side. The DB12R is shown to be in stock.
#4555
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
The car was pulled from the site because we are temporarily out of stock. We will have them back on there shortly. Stormer hobbies has our cars in stock along with a variety of spares.
Our car was designed to work on any surface. The suspension gives you the benefits from both a link car and a T bar car without the tweaking you usually get after tapping a board. We made sure that this car would be extremely durable as well as offering the best performance available. The pod fits brushless motors with ease and without going back to the old 3 bolt style pod. This makes our pod much more resistant to damage. If you would like any more info please feel free to ask.
I really think you enjoy running 1/12th cars buddy.
Our car was designed to work on any surface. The suspension gives you the benefits from both a link car and a T bar car without the tweaking you usually get after tapping a board. We made sure that this car would be extremely durable as well as offering the best performance available. The pod fits brushless motors with ease and without going back to the old 3 bolt style pod. This makes our pod much more resistant to damage. If you would like any more info please feel free to ask.
I really think you enjoy running 1/12th cars buddy.
#4556
Tech Initiate
#4557
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Been reading most of the 12th scale threads, and decided to get the DB12R but it's not for sale in www.bmiracing.com
When will the kit be back in stock? Someone told me this kit would be best in asphalt...any comments? How about the 12L4 or the upcoming 12R5 and the Gen-X? Not trying to sabotage your thread just want opinions.
T-Bar or Link is best for asphalt?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
When will the kit be back in stock? Someone told me this kit would be best in asphalt...any comments? How about the 12L4 or the upcoming 12R5 and the Gen-X? Not trying to sabotage your thread just want opinions.
T-Bar or Link is best for asphalt?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Link cars like the RC12L5 and CRC Gen-X are good on carpet but are not so good on asphalt.
The DB12R is good everywhere. It is a blend of link and t-bar cars taking the best of both and putting it all together in one package.
#4559
Tech Champion
Did IRS change their plastic a bit? The IRS lower arms that came with my BMI seem a lot less prone to stripping out then the ones I have bought for my previous car.