BMI's DB12R
12-02-2007, 11:25 AM
#3136
Tech Fanatic
This happened to me...
Halfway through a Club meeting, my car developed a tweak!
It wasn't bad, but despite slackening and tightening the front end, and L plate clamps, I couldn't shake it. The car remained rock-steady on the track, and however badly provoked, didn't react unevenly in left or right turns. But a tweak's a tweak...
A busy hour in the shed revealed that the rear pod had taken a hit (could have been a rear-ender in one heat, or a self-induced flyer in the other, landing on the rear axle) and one plate had twisted relative to the other. The rear brace tube has allowed the right plate to twist relative to the left, and then held it in that position. Taking the pod off the lower plate and placing it on a flat surface was all that was needed to see the problem!
Release one screw, bolt pod back into car, including top plate, and then retighten the brace tube - tweak gone!! Hope that helps some of the...ahem... less-skilled BMI drivers keep on top of their maintenance.
Now I know what can happen, simply releasing the left-side screw every so often is all that's needed to ensure that it doesn't affect things again. HTH
Halfway through a Club meeting, my car developed a tweak!
It wasn't bad, but despite slackening and tightening the front end, and L plate clamps, I couldn't shake it. The car remained rock-steady on the track, and however badly provoked, didn't react unevenly in left or right turns. But a tweak's a tweak...A busy hour in the shed revealed that the rear pod had taken a hit (could have been a rear-ender in one heat, or a self-induced flyer in the other, landing on the rear axle) and one plate had twisted relative to the other. The rear brace tube has allowed the right plate to twist relative to the left, and then held it in that position. Taking the pod off the lower plate and placing it on a flat surface was all that was needed to see the problem!
Release one screw, bolt pod back into car, including top plate, and then retighten the brace tube - tweak gone!! Hope that helps some of the...ahem... less-skilled BMI drivers keep on top of their maintenance.
Now I know what can happen, simply releasing the left-side screw every so often is all that's needed to ensure that it doesn't affect things again. HTH
12-02-2007, 01:25 PM
#3138
Tech Adept
This is my set-up for low/medium grip on Jack...
.020 springs / 1.5deg camber / 4deg castor / full-width additive / 5deg blocks / AE cf x-brace between castor blocks / 5000wt on kingpins / 3.5mm ride height
kit (thick) L plates (screws off chassis) / 5000wt in dampers (forward holes on pod) / gold spring / 35wt oil / full-width additive / 4mm ride height
38mm wheels on the front help too. In all honesty, you need magenta fronts for Jack, as when the grip comes up purples get too snatchy and inconsistent. HTH
.020 springs / 1.5deg camber / 4deg castor / full-width additive / 5deg blocks / AE cf x-brace between castor blocks / 5000wt on kingpins / 3.5mm ride height
kit (thick) L plates (screws off chassis) / 5000wt in dampers (forward holes on pod) / gold spring / 35wt oil / full-width additive / 4mm ride height
38mm wheels on the front help too. In all honesty, you need magenta fronts for Jack, as when the grip comes up purples get too snatchy and inconsistent. HTH
Jason
12-02-2007, 01:46 PM
#3139
Tech Fanatic
'Cause I think I might have pinched it from you!! 
12-02-2007, 02:21 PM
#3140
Whats a base set up for carpet with a 17.5, or 13.5?
12-02-2007, 03:09 PM
#3141
Page 102 post 3039 may help ya.Blakedoutrevo
12-02-2007, 03:16 PM
#3142
12-02-2007, 03:17 PM
#3143
I would try running Purple fronts w/ grey rears and cut them to 1.750 rear and 1.700 front.
Front:
.020 front springs w/ #3 surelube on the kingpins
1.5 degrees of camber
servo flat and bumpsteer compensated for with medium black ballstud
3.5mm ride height
4 degrees castor(1 shim front and rear of the arm)
sauce inside 1/2 of front tires
Rear:
Batts in the middle for a smoother track,forward for bumpy(moving them forward takes weight away from the center pivot making the chance of bottoming out less)
stock flex plates w/ no set screws
New cross brace
#4 surelube in the tubes
40 wt. oil in the shock with a red spring
Tall ball stud(silver) with no shims
172mm rear track width
sauce full rear tires
I also prefer a speed 8 body
Front:
.020 front springs w/ #3 surelube on the kingpins
1.5 degrees of camber
servo flat and bumpsteer compensated for with medium black ballstud
3.5mm ride height
4 degrees castor(1 shim front and rear of the arm)
sauce inside 1/2 of front tires
Rear:
Batts in the middle for a smoother track,forward for bumpy(moving them forward takes weight away from the center pivot making the chance of bottoming out less)
stock flex plates w/ no set screws
New cross brace
#4 surelube in the tubes
40 wt. oil in the shock with a red spring
Tall ball stud(silver) with no shims
172mm rear track width
sauce full rear tires
I also prefer a speed 8 body
The #3, and 4 surelube, whats that lol?
And then what from the set up do I need to buy? I know the axle spacers, the red spring, tall ball stud, and what else?
12-02-2007, 03:17 PM
#3144
12-02-2007, 03:24 PM
#3145
12-02-2007, 03:25 PM
#3146
12-02-2007, 03:27 PM
#3147
Alright, I will tell J to get that on the list with my stuff
Thanks
Thanks
12-02-2007, 03:38 PM
#3148
well theres the spacers for the ride hight,or shims.then of course you would definitely need one of those bumpers,the wheel spacers for jacos your already on that caper,the IRS lube pack since ya didn't know what the #s was,extra center pivot,and flex plates,thick& thin.
12-02-2007, 05:43 PM
#3150
I have been running the Windtunnel lubes that are presented with the #s but aslong as you use the same weight you should be fine
#5 is 15000
#4 is 12500
I think those two are right please correct me if im not
#5 is 15000
#4 is 12500
I think those two are right please correct me if im not