BMI's DB12R
11-14-2007, 06:47 AM
#2836
The main reason i went with the style of arm shim i did is for support of the screw and lack of stacking shims. What happens with is that being the arm is spaced off the chassis up to 5 or 6mm, that area is not supported and is suspended in air. The screw can bend easier this way with a side hit and it is very hard to pinpoint without taking the screw out. This can cause major handling issues.
Stacking shims can run into a problem because unless there is no dirt or debris on the shims and they are dead flat, The arms can sit crooked and give you alot of problems. I am just not comfortable stacking relatively thin shims like this. 2 shims at max is all i would want if i had to.
Stacking shims can run into a problem because unless there is no dirt or debris on the shims and they are dead flat, The arms can sit crooked and give you alot of problems. I am just not comfortable stacking relatively thin shims like this. 2 shims at max is all i would want if i had to.
Oh...you DO say...three times in fact
I hear you Jason and completely agree. My scheme only has one shim in at any given time. Plus my BMI spacers.
11-14-2007, 06:51 AM
#2837
I beleive that your statement is just as inacurate. The fact is that several people will take the fiberlyte shims and cut them and have the openings point toward each other facing up and down. Also try it some time. run the fiberlyte shims and then run a set of full surface shims. you can feel the difference. teh car will not turn as sharp. similar to a sedan with a thicker chassis. this is of course on carpet with medium to high bite.
11-14-2007, 07:03 AM
#2839
I guess I'm not that good a driver. Or I'm not able to fool myself that there's a measureable difference. Kinda like I don't feel the difference .01 volts in my batteries, a watt or two on my motor, etc. I'm brutally honest with myself about my ability "behind the wheel" so I'm not easily swayed.
Your first example was that impacts caused deflection. Now it's a handling matter. Which is it? I DID try the "face-to-face" after I read about it in Mark Payne's excellent blog. What I found was that unless your initials are Mike Blackstock (or some similar...and maybe not even then) that if you were handed the car blind I doubt most drivers could tell me whether I'd stacked face-to-face or same-sided. What you're describing requires carbon fibre to compress and I just don't see that sort of load being imparted in our little cars.
Plus, as I indicated above, using J's spacers I only have one shim in at any given time. I guess if you believed you were experiencing deflection you could insert the shims from the inside so that as load was imparted the back of the arm had "full support" to counter that load.
Your first example was that impacts caused deflection. Now it's a handling matter. Which is it? I DID try the "face-to-face" after I read about it in Mark Payne's excellent blog. What I found was that unless your initials are Mike Blackstock (or some similar...and maybe not even then) that if you were handed the car blind I doubt most drivers could tell me whether I'd stacked face-to-face or same-sided. What you're describing requires carbon fibre to compress and I just don't see that sort of load being imparted in our little cars.
Plus, as I indicated above, using J's spacers I only have one shim in at any given time. I guess if you believed you were experiencing deflection you could insert the shims from the inside so that as load was imparted the back of the arm had "full support" to counter that load.
11-14-2007, 07:05 AM
#2840
The stock plastic shims work really good as well. I am just very anal when it comes to this and i wanted to add alot of strength to the arm and screws as well as increase mounting accuracy. It is tough for a company to come up with stuff like the lower arms and offer all of the different shims due to cost. IRS did a great job with the arms and sell them at a very reasonable price. The new shim set was to add a finishing touch that was way too expensive for dave to supply with arms.
Hopefully this will only post once.
Hopefully this will only post once.
11-14-2007, 07:23 AM
#2841
I agree entirely that the new IRS arms are great pieces. My observations above only lead me to believe that Dave would do himself and his customers a great service by recommending they be tapped. An 8-32 tap is what, $5, and will last the rest of your RC life. And your kids. And their kids...
When the arms are tapped the white line from the distorted plastic doesn't happen and I have yet to break an arm. Took a hit that broke the ears off both sides of my servo but the arms are still ticking.
When the arms are tapped the white line from the distorted plastic doesn't happen and I have yet to break an arm. Took a hit that broke the ears off both sides of my servo but the arms are still ticking.
11-14-2007, 07:59 AM
#2843
Yeah, I drilled a car that was re-entering the racing line PERPENDICULAR to the direction of travel. In the sweeper off the end of the straight. I was full throttle and hadn't seen him against the inboard rail until there he was in front of me. I hit him at pretty much the same time I saw him.
That's one of my pet peeves...people who crash and immediately re-enter the racing line. All they do is foul someone else up AND lose themselves even more time in the long run than if they are patient for a second and clear traffic before re-entry.
That's one of my pet peeves...people who crash and immediately re-enter the racing line. All they do is foul someone else up AND lose themselves even more time in the long run than if they are patient for a second and clear traffic before re-entry.
11-14-2007, 08:00 AM
#2844
I agree entirely that the new IRS arms are great pieces. My observations above only lead me to believe that Dave would do himself and his customers a great service by recommending they be tapped. An 8-32 tap is what, $5, and will last the rest of your RC life. And your kids. And their kids...
When the arms are tapped the white line from the distorted plastic doesn't happen and I have yet to break an arm. Took a hit that broke the ears off both sides of my servo but the arms are still ticking.
When the arms are tapped the white line from the distorted plastic doesn't happen and I have yet to break an arm. Took a hit that broke the ears off both sides of my servo but the arms are still ticking.
11-14-2007, 08:05 AM
#2845
I actually use the Lunsford Ti screws since they have a hex socket. Wish they were 1/8" longer for the new arms, but we can't have everything...
11-14-2007, 08:55 AM
#2846
On the shim issue, I guess its just personal prefence. I really like Jason's and then use the crc thin shims to get the exact height. Thanks J.
-Shookie <><
11-14-2007, 09:17 AM
#2847
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Is there anywhere else I can get these? I thought i seen a guy making some of these on here..
Here is teh link to what I am talking about
http://www.redrc.net/2007/11/roche-1...ims/#more-6381
Here is teh link to what I am talking about
http://www.redrc.net/2007/11/roche-1...ims/#more-6381
Look under the RC car and then lokk for Spacer kit for Callandra Carpetknife
11-14-2007, 01:19 PM
#2848
I did and they were fine. As were the axles and kingpins. I got lucky and it was only a $5 servo case. What I've been finding with my current setup, completely by accident (har har har) is that the servo case is acting like a fuse. It's the first thing to go in hard hits. I think it has to do with the CRC aluminum mounts only having one screw to secure them to the chassis rather than Jason's 2-screw system (which I ALSO like better).
I actually use the Lunsford Ti screws since they have a hex socket. Wish they were 1/8" longer for the new arms, but we can't have everything...
I actually use the Lunsford Ti screws since they have a hex socket. Wish they were 1/8" longer for the new arms, but we can't have everything...
11-14-2007, 02:15 PM
#2849
[QUOTE=Scottrik;3865400]I guess I'm not that good a driver. Or I'm not able to fool myself that there's a measurable difference. Kinda like I don't feel the difference .01 volts in my batteries, a watt or two on my motor, etc. I'm brutally honest with myself about my ability "behind the wheel" so I'm not easily swayed
Man is this a let down .Here I've been watching the threads and getting all kinds of info on my personal journey to the electric underground of1/12th rc and a trusted source comes up with a quote like this.So I have to say come on man pull yourself together! you got game, and the special bearing sauce !
Now that thats done could someone tell me what is the correct motor for 1/12 stock @ Minreg ? Thanks
Man is this a let down .Here I've been watching the threads and getting all kinds of info on my personal journey to the electric underground of1/12th rc and a trusted source comes up with a quote like this.So I have to say come on man pull yourself together! you got game, and the special bearing sauce !
Now that thats done could someone tell me what is the correct motor for 1/12 stock @ Minreg ? Thanks
11-14-2007, 02:28 PM
#2850
Man is this a let down .Here I've been watching the threads and getting all kinds of info on my personal journey to the electric underground of1/12th rc and a trusted source comes up with a quote like this.So I have to say come on man pull yourself together! you got game, and the special bearing sauce !
Now that thats done could someone tell me what is the correct motor for 1/12 stock @ Minreg ? Thanks
Now that thats done could someone tell me what is the correct motor for 1/12 stock @ Minreg ? Thanks
"NEVER mistake a good line of BS for competence"