Nexus Racing

I think that you are looking at too small of a picture, there. How much $$ did you spend on the upkeep of that $25 stock motor and $70 mod motor. How long did those $20 batteries last when you buzz-boxed them at 20amps on the starting grid? How much money did you spend on option parts for that $125 car, how much cash did you spend weekly keeping the slop out of its drivetrain & steering that shouldn't have been there, and how often did you have to tear the car down to see if the ridiculously thin hinge-pins were bent?

Oh, don't forget to factor in 2-3% of compounding inflation per year...do you still think it was really cheaper?

InspGadgt

For the most part the cost is the same...some things have come down in price such as higher end batteries as had the need for them to be competitive. The difference between a sport pack battery and a race pack battery was a lot more then it is now. I used to pay $100 or more for a competitive battery pack...now I can be competitive with an inexpensive bulk matched pack because the run time is so much longer the power doesn't taper off so fast. Electronics cost about the same but are smaller and better quality then ever. Car kit costs are about the same. Stock motor prices have gone up a little bit but mod motor prices have stayed the same and in come cases come down. Tires...I used to pay twices as much for foam tires for my 1/12th scale then I do now...well not quite twice as much but a good deal more. Lastly the cost per class has gone up for entry fee. So all in all it washes out pretty even for better quality, more run time, and more power.

SWTour

iTrader: (9)

part of the deal that I see that drives 'club racing' prices up are 'better than club racers' pushing the cars limits for every race.

club racers don't usually race that hard...they are they for a little competition and a good time...but the 'hot dogs' feel EVERY race should be run like it's a WORLD championship...and this has a tendency to KILL the 'fun' attitude of a local event, and WILL keep alot of local club racers from coming back due to the high cost to try to run with these guys.

sosidge

At the end of the day racing is as cheap as YOU want to make it.

A couple of statements...

- Practice costs nothing
- Good car preparation costs nothing
- Buy cheap buy twice

Personally, I have good stuff but not excessive amounts. I race one car at club meetings, I have good stuff in the car, a good charger and a good radio.

BUT, my radio (Futaba 3VC) is about 5 years old now, and hopefully has many more good years left. My charger (Cell Master) is a couple of years old, I am very happy with the way it charges NiMH so don't think I will change for a while. My cells are IB4200 and are 18months old but still fine for club use. I have one 19T motor which I run until the comm fails, skimming and rebrushing when required. I have a new keyence ESC, but my previous GM V12 ESC was with me for 5 years. I also have a new Futaba digital servo, but my previous KO was also in the car for 5 years. I get about 2 years use out of a car chassis, running it weekly and cleaning and maintaining it, before parts start to wear out.

My only real expense apart from race fees is tyres, I get about 3 race meetings from a set.

Averaged out this stuff has cost me very little over the years.

In comparison I have seen lots of people who chop and change between 3 or 4 different cars, who have a box with 3 or 4 motors in, and who buy low-quality or second hand gear that they end up having problems with and have to replace. They probabaly spend more than me over the course of the year but don't go any faster.

So I echo what was said above. Get a decent car with decent gear (doesn't have to be the most expensive), keep it in good running order, practice as much as you can, experiment with setup, ask questions, and you'll be up to club pace in no time.

Driving a good line without crashing is worth much more time than any chassis upgrade you can buy.

tc3team

It all depends on the club and your wallet.

If others around you are changing tyres, skimming comm's and changing brushes faster than the speed of light it will cost you a fair bit in keeping up with them

However, if you just want to race at your own budget and pace then yes, racing can be very cheap

wallyedmonds

the battery's lasted a very long time
and the car was a stock mid with no hopups
i had no money to spend so i run what i had and i still made the A
cant do that today
the motors we had a guy true them up for us at a cost of around 5 buck's
the stocker hmmm brushes
just a note on the old sanyo cells
1100-1200 scr they can take it and last very very long time
not like cells of today.

ASCI_Blue

iTrader: (1)

I gotta say it's cheaper than it's ever been. Here's why:

Used TC3 Factory Team (less rx): $165 shipped
Old Astroflight Charger: Free cause I've had it for about a decade
Old 1400 Mah NiCD packs: Free for same reason of the charger yes they still hold a charge.
Futaba PB2K: Free for above two (with rx)

This is the original investment into onroad (approx 1 yr ago). Since then:

Hex wrench set: $30
Duratrax Ice: $125
Mamba Max: $135
Shock endcaps: $5
3x NiMH packs: Free
350 Watt power supply for charger: ~$30

Sadly the above has been within the last 2 months. However most of it is one time expenditures. All that said I'm starting on a 1/18th car shortly. For that one:

$75 for used car
~$120 for mamba mini-brushless setup
~$30 for servo
~$30 for rx IF my roomie can track down a standalone futaba radio.

I also have a buggy that's gonna make it out here for my roomie. I just hope that it still works after all the years of non-use.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

Its definately cheaper now. You gotta remember Bearings were considered a hop up back in the days. lol

You can get started with a competitive set up for $700.00

H/B cyclone S $160.00 w/body
Mid level radio w/ expo, dual rate, $150.00
Lipo with charger $140.00
Brushless system $250.00

this set up will be a pretty low maintainance for weak to weak club racing.
If you can find some used items from a friend or someone you trust then it gets a lot cheaper.

Cmotif

iTrader: (4)

Club racing, then you don't need the latest and greatest. You can probably pick up a used Yokomo MR4TC or TC3 RTR with spares for less than 200. (Something that someone used to race, with body, upgrades, esc, radio, and stock motor)

Epic 3000 packs for 19.00 each. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXERB5&P=ML

And a duratrax pulse charger that will cycle batteries for 75.00 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUF45&P=7

And that will get you started.

Phroz

iTrader: (1)

IB4200's are a killer for club racing.. the cost of maintainence and replacement is killing the numbers at my track.. even though its only club level the guys with the $$ are dominating. The little guys with the stick packs and budget setups are going home disapointed every week and more and more just dont come back. We tryed having Mod and stock classes but the "hot shots" just show up with high end chassis, IB4200's and hard tuned 27t stock motors..

I guess some people get a kick out of showing off or beating guys that dont have a chance against them.. kinda sad in my opinion..

But... this is a human aspect of the hobby. Club racing can be very affordable for beginners and great fun. It's just the jerks with high end gear that spoil it for the beginners and budget racers.

I'm not saying that if you have high end gear your a jerk.. far from it.. i'm just saying ur a jerk if pitting ur high end setup against begginers puts a smile on your face.

Cmotif

iTrader: (4)

I have a great radio, and a decent vehicle, but I am more that willing to handicap my motor to have a good race. For me if the racing isn't close it isn't fun.

I used to run seperate stock classes for rookies and veterans, and even another for "gentleman" racers, who were dads of agressive teen drivers, who were a little slower in the whole reflex thing. Do whatever makes the racing close.

Maybe make a spec class that requires 2400s or less, or stick packs only. Make the fast guys add ballad every time they win like in some real sports car formulas.

You can spec your tires. For a while, nearly everyone in our club in Merced were running close out IWC spec tires from Integy because they were only like 3.50 a pair. They don't have them at that price any more but these one are 4.25 a pair. http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...55107232054.7f



C

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

true beginners need to focus on consistency and laps.....
if you are getting beat by "cherry pickers" it is no fun but
if you watch there lines and how they run some good skills will rub off on you....Racing can be cheaper if you are in the know about whats hot and what has fizzled....i picked up a brand new tc4 for $99. I got a bn helios $225 and a bn keyence esc for $70.....all because of rc tech.....

RCSteve93

iTrader: (11)

Ever since I started working at my local hobby shop, I race for free. I also get paid. I operate the r/c race track, so every time I leave the track, I have a few dollars in my pocket. I would have more than a few dollars in my pocket, if I could resist the urge to put it back in the hobby shop . Also, I have'nt broken a part on my 1/12th scale in about 2 months, so I could really put about $10 a month into this hobby. To bad I can't do what I am doing now for a living. I am addicted to R/C.

Mason

club racing.. depends on what you are racing. touring usually costs more, 4wd = more maintenance, more tires, etc. pan cars can be cheap, its usually been a lot more fun for me as well.. nitro.. *shrug* the 'can nots' usually turn me off to the idea every time I see them. off-road, I don't recall seeing where having the car of the month has made a difference. Motor perhaps but generally not at the club level.

"club racing" is just that. Your guys set the tone on how competitive its going to be. Many people have problems seeing beyond what one fast guy has and trying to come up with something of their own doing. Instead its the "i better buy what he has" mentality.. Which comes from that RTR influx. Where as the nerdy/older guys understand the ideas behind it all and can be very competitive with what they have or depending on the car can change up some of the characteristics with some good ol fashioned elbow grease. With off-road its a little harder to change some of the things due to molds n such but being most of the time its not having the best of everything, its just using everything you have the best that brings the creme to the top.

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

offroad is very inexpensive especially 2wd. when i ran mod buggy, all i needed was a set of tires.. offroad, bigtime batteries don't matter nor do fast motors. you can more easily OVER power the car and if anything need to motor back.. i used to do pretty well in club races with machine wounds (usually around a 13dbl) and old batteries.. we ran on a hard packed track so tires were a once a race day thing...

mason i'm with ya on the pancars.. fun as heck, fast as anything on the planet, and cheap to buy, maintain and run. mason when i move back down there we'll have to get them out and run some..