TAO4R Upgrades
04-09-2003, 03:48 PM
#16
k thnx 
04-10-2003, 04:51 AM
#17
In my opinion the Aluminium Ball Bearing Steering set did nothing to reduce the slop. I suggest that you replace the Ball cups regularly.
As fas as other options go I would definately recommend the Lightweight Delrin Outdrives for your TA04R. They replace the steel outdrives which weigh a tonn. This reduces the rotating mass considerably and will get you up to speed faster.
Also Work on weight reduction as much as you can. Read the TA04R thread for some of the posts on weights of various parts. Pizza Dude and I have weighed most parts on the car including hop ups with some interesting results.
My brother and I both have the 2002 TA04R Kit. His car is almost box standard where as I have done a lot to reduce the weight and free up the drive train etc. With the same motors fitted my car is significantly faster all around the track. I even went as far as not using the nice aluminium spur gear adapter, instead opting for the standard plastic one. This was to help compensate for the twin aluminium centre pulleys that I used on the lay shaft instead of the plastic ones. This was just for durability over the standard plastic ones.
Check out the TA04 thread for stacks of helpful info.
Steevo
As fas as other options go I would definately recommend the Lightweight Delrin Outdrives for your TA04R. They replace the steel outdrives which weigh a tonn. This reduces the rotating mass considerably and will get you up to speed faster.
Also Work on weight reduction as much as you can. Read the TA04R thread for some of the posts on weights of various parts. Pizza Dude and I have weighed most parts on the car including hop ups with some interesting results.
My brother and I both have the 2002 TA04R Kit. His car is almost box standard where as I have done a lot to reduce the weight and free up the drive train etc. With the same motors fitted my car is significantly faster all around the track. I even went as far as not using the nice aluminium spur gear adapter, instead opting for the standard plastic one. This was to help compensate for the twin aluminium centre pulleys that I used on the lay shaft instead of the plastic ones. This was just for durability over the standard plastic ones.
Check out the TA04 thread for stacks of helpful info.
Steevo
04-11-2003, 03:31 AM
#18
I dont have any problem with my TAO4R as far steering slop is concern. I periodically check the ball cups free from gritty dirt that may cause slopin'. I believe its a competetive car as long the driver can be more flexible with the imperfections of the kit his/her drivin. And you dont need to spend to much dough just to win races anyway.
04-12-2003, 09:08 PM
#19
It feels like it drifts at the rear wheels when i accel. its really wierd.
04-13-2003, 12:16 AM
#20
Hi TA04R,
Are you running the yellow springs that came with the kit??
Have you adjusted your diffs properly??
What motor are you running??
What surface are you running on??
I will try and help you if I can..
Steevo
Are you running the yellow springs that came with the kit??
Have you adjusted your diffs properly??
What motor are you running??
What surface are you running on??
I will try and help you if I can..
Steevo
04-13-2003, 01:30 AM
#21
hehe...im bored so i'll answer for him...he has the stock springs and a 13T if im not mistaken and drives on concret road....and cocret track...hehe...same here...sept 11T motor...
04-13-2003, 03:37 AM
#22
Tech Rookie
Hi Steven, it seems I cannot send you any pm. Can you give me your e-mail so I can contact you. Thanks. Sorry this might not related to the thread.
04-13-2003, 06:28 AM
#23
TAO4 moifications!
everybody said the right thing in the proper way to upgrade this car!!!
since I do not run Tamiya Races, i plan to change all the ball caps so I could use RPM Ball cups. Wil start with the steering to reduce slop, but the slop is manageble its just that you have to change ball cups often as compared to using RPM.
To scrape off additional weight, I made the motor hole under the chassis bigger, It also helps in cooling the car faster after a run.
and
I removed the post for the battery retaining bar on the left n right side and just use tape to hold down my batteries, most of the chassis has slots for the tape, right.
Hope this give some guys an idea.
Happy Racing!!
since I do not run Tamiya Races, i plan to change all the ball caps so I could use RPM Ball cups. Wil start with the steering to reduce slop, but the slop is manageble its just that you have to change ball cups often as compared to using RPM.
To scrape off additional weight, I made the motor hole under the chassis bigger, It also helps in cooling the car faster after a run.
and
I removed the post for the battery retaining bar on the left n right side and just use tape to hold down my batteries, most of the chassis has slots for the tape, right.
Hope this give some guys an idea.
Happy Racing!!
04-13-2003, 09:50 AM
#24
Parts and/or hopups for the 04
I probably would get a new M2 but some tracks as well as Tamiya racing has tub chassis classes.
For the 04 I would suggest:
Alum heatsink - lighter and more heat dissapation. Make sure you roughen up the motor side with a file or coarse sandpaper so motor does not slide.
New Front Caster blocks - has reinforcing tierods and less caster for more steering in the corners as well as less flex for the steering.
Rear Toe in blocks - settles down the back end.
Alum Spur gear holder - Usually the plastic one flexes and you can strip 64p/.04 pitch gears very easy.
options to consider but not always necessary, unless you have money to burn. Order of most to least:
1) Low Friction shocks or new coated ones - will give you more
traction if you are currently running plastic ones. I would have put this on the must have list but, if looking at money can probably be one to do without.
2) Alum Steering - If you are having slop problems then is a good choice. Eventually the plastic will wear out or break. Also I have replaced the plastic steering connector with ball cups. Usually that is the first culprit of slop.
3) Center 1-way - Can be a cheaper alternative than the 1-way or best of both worlds if running front/back ball diffs. Or if you are running a front 1-way then can give you yet a little more in corners. A problem with the center 1-way is you need the new hardened shaft to run it on. If not you will eventually eat up the shaft.
4) Front 1-way - If you never driven a 1-way it is a totally new way of driving and can make you faster through the corners if properly setup. If you are unsure it is pretty expensive compared to the center 1-way.
5) carbon shock F/R towers - will give you one more hole for adjustment and will remove some suspension flex, not necessary. If you don't play with your shock mounting then it might be a factor.
Stuff you probably will not need:
Hard arms - I you get a hit that would break an arm then with a hard arm something else will break. Usually you would bend a hinge pin or break the pin holder. If your souce sells hard arms at the same price of stock arms then go for the hard.
Carbon Chassis - its nice, its light but the lower chassis will eventually wear compared to the tub and has some flex.
Alum Diff - it is very poorly molded. I would stick with the stock steel.
Plastic Diff - it can break under hard hits and tough to get the best adjustment out of.
Alum diff gear - not used
I bought the 04 pro when it first came out and have all the hop-ups on it you can get. Well except for the Alum Diff gear. If I had a choice between a M2 or a 04TRF I would get a M2. The 04 is still competitive on a local level. Its just a matter of getting the right setup.
Hope this Helps.
Coop
For the 04 I would suggest:
Alum heatsink - lighter and more heat dissapation. Make sure you roughen up the motor side with a file or coarse sandpaper so motor does not slide.
New Front Caster blocks - has reinforcing tierods and less caster for more steering in the corners as well as less flex for the steering.
Rear Toe in blocks - settles down the back end.
Alum Spur gear holder - Usually the plastic one flexes and you can strip 64p/.04 pitch gears very easy.
options to consider but not always necessary, unless you have money to burn. Order of most to least:
1) Low Friction shocks or new coated ones - will give you more
traction if you are currently running plastic ones. I would have put this on the must have list but, if looking at money can probably be one to do without.
2) Alum Steering - If you are having slop problems then is a good choice. Eventually the plastic will wear out or break. Also I have replaced the plastic steering connector with ball cups. Usually that is the first culprit of slop.
3) Center 1-way - Can be a cheaper alternative than the 1-way or best of both worlds if running front/back ball diffs. Or if you are running a front 1-way then can give you yet a little more in corners. A problem with the center 1-way is you need the new hardened shaft to run it on. If not you will eventually eat up the shaft.
4) Front 1-way - If you never driven a 1-way it is a totally new way of driving and can make you faster through the corners if properly setup. If you are unsure it is pretty expensive compared to the center 1-way.
5) carbon shock F/R towers - will give you one more hole for adjustment and will remove some suspension flex, not necessary. If you don't play with your shock mounting then it might be a factor.
Stuff you probably will not need:
Hard arms - I you get a hit that would break an arm then with a hard arm something else will break. Usually you would bend a hinge pin or break the pin holder. If your souce sells hard arms at the same price of stock arms then go for the hard.
Carbon Chassis - its nice, its light but the lower chassis will eventually wear compared to the tub and has some flex.
Alum Diff - it is very poorly molded. I would stick with the stock steel.
Plastic Diff - it can break under hard hits and tough to get the best adjustment out of.
Alum diff gear - not used
I bought the 04 pro when it first came out and have all the hop-ups on it you can get. Well except for the Alum Diff gear. If I had a choice between a M2 or a 04TRF I would get a M2. The 04 is still competitive on a local level. Its just a matter of getting the right setup.
Hope this Helps.
Coop
04-13-2003, 11:08 AM
#25
Thanx that really helped. Have you heard that a new one piece front one way has come out. its on the O4 TRF.
04-13-2003, 05:28 PM
#26
Originally posted by TAO4R
Thanx that really helped. Have you heard that a new one piece front one way has come out. its on the O4 TRF.
Thanx that really helped. Have you heard that a new one piece front one way has come out. its on the O4 TRF.
Coop
04-13-2003, 08:06 PM
#27
04-14-2003, 03:50 PM
#28
if i put some o rings in the shaft things (sry i dont know the technical term) 
it will help right?
it will help right?
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