dhiracing.com

In Malta, we have quite a big asphalt track outdoors and is considered to have low traction and on the bumpy side ...

We tried the long and short shock bottoms, however we all prefer to use the short ones, because only with these we can really setup the correct ride height, droop settings and spring preload, that are effective on our race track.

In general, we are all using soft dampening oil and soft alex springs such as the 1.4 650 ones. Since the car tends to roll quite a bit, we limited the droop and some drivers also added kickup. However I guess every track is different.

Herminator

I got some new shiney goodies today
As you'll see in the pic, they're the MIP style cvd, the finish on them is kind of an oily blue, looks smart would be nice to have a whole car done like this
The pin hole seems to have either a hard coating in it or a thin insirt so hopefully they should stand up well to wear
and most importantly, they're slop free, unlike my old cvd's

jimmy_maddison

where do u measure it from ????

and what shock lenthgs


jimmy

jimmy_maddison

has anyone tried rear tower on front??? and what mods are worth doing???

jimmy

Herminator

Sorry I can't help much with droop questions, I only really compare it from side to side, never noting it down
My setup stays pretty much the same anyway, it just gets slightly adjusted each week if needed, so I have an ok setup for most places but it's never perfect.

dhiracing.com

On our cars, we are setting droop as below ...

- Remove wheels and place car on a setting board
- Front & rear the same or slightly different according to personal preference
- 2.1 cm between bottom outer part of axle and setting board

I hope the above helps ... however different tracks might require different settings

dhiracing.com

Another thing worth trying is the following ...

R3 rear hubs already make the rear aluminium dog bones more parallel, however the Xenon hubs have 2 different settings and one in particular make the rear dog bones even more parallel than with the R3 hubs. However you might need to trim a bit the suspension arms so that the inner part of the axles do not touch the arms during suspension movement.

Worth trying I guess

Herminator

I don't know about trying the rear shock tower on the front, most people don't seem to have the need to.
Yokomo bladder shock caps are a perfect fit for the Cuda shocks if you don't like the ugly black plastic caps with bleed screws.

Some people have been gettting Speedway PAL alloy hubs which are shorter and usualy need drop down mounts for the inner camber links. Then instead of fitting the drop down mounts they machine the bulkheads out at the top to allow the camber links to be mounted from the original top deck holes but from the underside. There are some good pics a few pages back.

You can shim a bit of play out of the small bevel gears to help quieten the car down and put most of your diff shims on one side to make the bevel mesh looser.

KO Racer got an old chassis and cut a small section out of it to act as a bumper brace at the front, it goes on top of the plastic bumper piece and under the nuts holding the bumper on.

Since the upper bumper brace is no longer made by Square, I still wanted to stop the foam bumper flopping around a bit, so I got an alloy battery post and put it on the middle screw at the front of the chassis. Drilled a hole in the foam for the post to go through and it supports the rear of the bumper a bit, you can also use the post to secure your PT if you want to mount it that far forward.

Gaz has probably told you of most of these ideas though.

dhiracing.com

By the way ... I forgot to tell you

My ideas or suggestions are just personal ones. We are still trying to improve handling and make better lap times all the time. There is always need for improvement

However ... getting there

jimmy_maddison

who can get my bulkheads milled out then???

jimmy

mr barracuda

Hey Guys
Im selling a Alex racing barracuda the PINK version R2
Its about 8 months old and it is in good condition
The HOT UPS parts include
*Ti-screws every single one( with wrench)
*Ti-turnbuckes
*brand new ball diff and Delrin outdrives
*Ti nitride pivot balls ( the off set ones)
*Adjustable Aluminum Hex Hub adapters front and rear(blue)
* Long-Span, oversized suspension A-arms
*team losi e clips though out]
*hard shafts on the suspension arms
*brand new front shock tower
The SPARE PARTS are
*new diff gear
*new bevel gear
*Alex racing e clip set
*new front axle
*2 new universal join sets
*new body post set
*new c hubs
*1 new rear upright
* heaps of spare parts also included e.g spurs and pinions
Since i have added these new hot up parts the car has never been in a race but before that it has . The car is very solid and build to last

Make me an offer my calling me on 0431 483 979 or just add a PM

Thanks
Anastasi

Herminator

Merciless is the man you need to speak to he has a mate that does a nice job.

jimmy_maddison

how much does he charge???

jimmy_maddison

what yokomo arms have been used on r3 then??? i will try it tonite??

jimmy

GTO2

yokomo arms on R3?
this one I got to see ...