caltech1

Can anyone help me with some stock setups for LCG running 27 turn motor. I currently have only yokomo springs and am running 50 Wt oil front and 40 Wt oil rear. The car is presently turning into hairpins well, however when you accelerate out of the corner the rear end whips out. This doesn't matter which way you turn , left or right. I have the rear ball diff done up tight, which was O.K when running 540 PRO, however I think this maybe part of the problem. I am in the process of purchasing Rayspeed springs and retainers.
A couple of my fellow racers think I have the car setup to hard. I am using Yokomo green springs on the front and Yokomo pink springs on the rear. The suspension is slow to react according to them. I can't recall which shock inserts I fitted.
Other than this the car is great.I have tried changing tyres and fitted Sorex 28's which made no difference.
Any ideas are welcome.
Thankyou
Calvin.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

What rear block are you running?
.....if the back is spinning out, first check the outer hinge pins had this happen to me a few times.
if not that then trying laying down the shocks one whole.
or
go to a lower degree rear pivot block. or thinner shock oil can relieve a lot of probs.

hope that helps out....I started with the same problem....finally got mine pretty much dialed.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

If the suspension is too hard, it would be fast to react. You may need to go back to a softer oil, usually I dont run any more than 40wt at all. It depends on your track and surface temp, the age of your tires DOES make a big difference too.

joelt

I run an LCG for stock as well.

Checking if your hinge pins are bent IS definitely one of the things you should look at.

Take a look at your rear diff too. As you've mentioned, it may be a bit too tight. I set mine with the diff screw at 1/3 to 1/2 turn backed out from locked position.

If you're using a one-way unit up front, check if this is working properly as well. . . . You may unknowingly be running on a 2wd configuration or, there may be some binding in this area.

caltech1

Olhipster1 I am using the RO+3 rear hinge pin mount. The hinge pin mount prevents the hinge pins from moving as they are captive. I checked the diff tightness and when you hold one wheel and the spur together the other wheel can not be rotated. If I release the two wheels then the diff can be moved. I will loosen the rear diff of first.
The shocks are mounted on the rear on the bottom outer mount and the second from the centre of the car on the top shock mounting. The shocks are all ready layed over.
After I have tried loosening the rear ball diff I will try using 35 Wt shock oil and and change the front to 40 Wt oil this might help.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

The hinge pins may be captivated, but they can still bend and cause binding. Pull the rear block off, and take the pins out, they should roll on a flat surface easily and have no bends or warps. If they do, replace them. Dont straighten them.

caltech1

Well I removed the rear hinge pins and checked them for straightness by rolling on a glass sheet. Both are not bent.
The diff was very tight and was backed off with a complete turn and a third. I will have to check this at the track to confirm results. I am not going to replace the shock oil until I take to the track.
Joelt I checked the oneway and it is working correctly.

Thanks vOrtex and others. Will keep you posted.

Cheers
Calvin.

caltech1

G'day All,
I want to find out the spring rate of the kit silver/steel Yokomo springs. I'm not sure if they fit between the yok pink and yellow springs on the spring chart.
Hope everyone had agreat Xmas and all the best for the New Year.

Thankyou.
Calvin.

pops

iTrader: (1)

Yellow = 13.82lb/in
Stainless = 14.65lb/in
Orange = 15.80lb/in

caltech1

Thanks POPS

Calvin

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone know if there is any company or person who sells a stiffer chassis and Upper deck for the LCG?

agower

i no that there are companies that do them for the sd NOT LCG. but it looked at the chassis for both cars and the only holes that are different are they steering posts holes and motor mount holes. and on the topdeck the holes are exactly the same, the front topdeck is the same as the front portion of the original topdeck but jsut doesnt use the steering post holes on the topdeck. so mayeb the companys would change there deisgn slightly as they do do custom designs aswell.

go to www.fibre-lyte.co.uk

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

ok guys I know you have this problem before, My belt keeps on rubbing on my steering bell crank. Solution?

daniz24

There's an updated bell crank already released. Btw, this is SD thread