Rick Draper

Matt where are you measuring that from front and back? The wishbone under the outer hinge pin or the C hub/rear toe block? Also is it a Yokomo gauge you are using? One final thing what sort of shock lenghts do i want front and rear on the rayspeed towers?

Thanks Rick

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I take my measurements off of the outside of the arms front and rear with the Yokomo gauge. I don't know how long you need the shocks to be, I'm not trying to be a smart a$$ but they need to be long enough to get the droop you want. After I cut the little plastice pieces inside the shock body my shocks are long enough to get whatever droop I want.

fai

I see, thanks, Matt!

rc_bam226

To all the guys on this thread, Happy Thanksgiving!!!!

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

Matt- Wanted to thank you for the setup help on the Yok 12th Worlds car. I ran the car at a large Event in Omaha, Neb a few weeks ago and the car was awsome all weekend in stock 12th. Kept jammin batteries in it and had a blast driving it. Took 2nd in qual and 2nd overall. Fun thing was they posted what everyone was driving and people were saying that the yok car just does not work on the rug....I think it worked great....LOL

Thanks again for the help...cool being the only one running one around here and doing well with it....

Jeff

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Sweet, good job. Did you brace the front end? That's the only thing I had to do to make the car work on carpet, just get rid of those worthless thin graphite braces and make a brace between the front suspension.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

allright I just got off the phone with Yokomo USA and I guess Billy never filled out a setup sheet with all the details of his setup. I was able to get this from them though.
front- yok green springs, RS #2 pistons, oil weight unknown
rear- yok yellow springs, RS #2 pistons, oil weight unknown
1 deg kickup in the front, 1 deg trailing steering block.
bronze upper type sway bar in the rear, RS silver swaybar in the front.
regular SSG chassis using all the plastic pieces as well, no graphite pieces at all.
Two servo savers used to take slop out of steering.
For shock mounting you'll need to find pics of his car and go from there. He used a prototype front tower but if you use the stock front tower and use the outside hole it will be very close to this I was told. They didn't know the shock oil weight used but said Billy usually likes lite dampening so I'm guessing maybe 35 in front and 30 in rear.

mtc3od

lite dampaning? Have you seen his tc3 mod setup? 80 weight in front and 70 in back. That is thick.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

was that for a carpet track? He's not running the tc3 anymore, maybe on the yokomo he likes lite dampening? I was just repeating what was told to me by the boss at yokomo usa.

forty6

Thanks Matt. Now, if you can only get Billy in here.

ritchie

i have a off road friend that might be able to get it for me, i'll post it if he can.

also, i was told once but i don't remember, whats the difference in the upper sway bar and regular one, any pics would be nice.

AND, any difference in on power and off power with a 70 vs. 78 spur

PMR

Need help!!!! Eversince I started using Yokomo ssg, Rayspeeed and CGM my problem of breaking the front axles in like every 2 to 4 runs (twice in a race) still persist thats why Ive always sidelined my Yokomo's and used other cars instead. Have used the original axle, the Square titanium axles and also the new heavy duty ones (although better but still the pins get broken). Don't get me wrong all my other cars are all shafties but they outlast the yoke's axle 10 to 15 times. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Get the hardened universals from the old belt drive car for the front. maybe Pops can post the part # cause I can never remember it also, have you installed the wide front bumper kit? that helps alot also.

fai

PMR: I also encountered this problem, my solutions are:
- Polish the 'edge' of axle that the pin goes through with sand paper. So, you will no glitch when you swing the axle after assembling.
- Wipe those moving parts with Asso. black grease.
- Check after every running to make sure that tiny screws hasn't come out.

My pins never break after these...
Hope these help!

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

yes, i think the cause of the problem is the pin loosening.
I wrap the axle with heat-shrink to prevent the pin from coming out.
the rear does not require this