12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
10-14-2004, 05:41 AM
I think it was some Twinning Chai Tea, smelled like toilet spray...It' s very exotic here, you only can find it in some indian groceries.
10-14-2004, 06:04 AM
what makes you think it was tea? 
10-14-2004, 06:07 AM
I know it has been asked 100 times but I'm not about to sift through 500 pages as interesting as it is.
Anyone got a baseline setup for the SSG on carpet foam tires (jaco) stock?
Gracies
Anyone got a baseline setup for the SSG on carpet foam tires (jaco) stock?
Gracies
10-14-2004, 06:12 AM
Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.
So does black Indian tea make the CGM quicker or not ?
Back to reality.
ASW7576. More upright shocks generally means stiffer springing, but there are so many other variables to consider.
If you move the tops of the shocks out on the tower you go stiffer. If you move the bottoms of the shocks out on the wishbones you go softer. That's as a general rule.
So does black Indian tea make the CGM quicker or not ?
Back to reality.
ASW7576. More upright shocks generally means stiffer springing, but there are so many other variables to consider.
If you move the tops of the shocks out on the tower you go stiffer. If you move the bottoms of the shocks out on the wishbones you go softer. That's as a general rule.
10-14-2004, 06:15 AM
front end
AE purple springs with RS #2 pistons and 50 wt oil, outside on shocktower, second from inside on the arms
Gold sway bar
arms spaced in middle, to the rear for more steering
Rear end
AE copper springs with RS #2 pistons and 40wt oil, outside on shocktower, outside on arms
silver sway bar
arms spaced in the middle
1-2 deg of toe in, depending on how much steering you want
AE purple springs with RS #2 pistons and 50 wt oil, outside on shocktower, second from inside on the arms
Gold sway bar
arms spaced in middle, to the rear for more steering
Rear end
AE copper springs with RS #2 pistons and 40wt oil, outside on shocktower, outside on arms
silver sway bar
arms spaced in the middle
1-2 deg of toe in, depending on how much steering you want
10-14-2004, 06:50 AM
1-2 deg of toe in, depending on how much steering you want
10-14-2004, 07:23 AM
Tech Regular
I think Matt refer rear toe-in.
10-14-2004, 09:10 AM
Hope so or being in Korea is going to his head
I'm finging that on an extremely tight carpet track that the stock springs work pretty well.... No sway bars either...
I am a little ticked off at the way the steering servo saver was done... I had issues with the stock plastic thingy so I had gone to a small Kimorough servo saver I had laying around... That worked fine with an S3003 doing the steering... I finally decided to go Digital and got a 9550 for the car... Needless to say, the ballcup would hit the servo.... Tried a million things and finally went out to my shed, got my RC10T (circa 1990) and swiped the 14 year old servo saver off, the large one.... Why couldn't they stay with the old design????
I'm finging that on an extremely tight carpet track that the stock springs work pretty well.... No sway bars either...
I am a little ticked off at the way the steering servo saver was done... I had issues with the stock plastic thingy so I had gone to a small Kimorough servo saver I had laying around... That worked fine with an S3003 doing the steering... I finally decided to go Digital and got a 9550 for the car... Needless to say, the ballcup would hit the servo.... Tried a million things and finally went out to my shed, got my RC10T (circa 1990) and swiped the 14 year old servo saver off, the large one.... Why couldn't they stay with the old design????
10-14-2004, 10:42 AM
i'm looking at switching from a xxx-s to a mr4-tc .
what is so great about the yokomo copared to the losi
what is so great about the yokomo copared to the losi
10-14-2004, 12:45 PM
I've never owned a Losi vehicle, can't help ya.... The X-Ray seems to be very nice too... Both the Yok and X-Ray have the same lack of parts support though....
10-14-2004, 01:11 PM
Yokomo is the best car I have ever driven...The car is alot different then the Losi. I have owned both and both cars have the potential to be fast. I personally like the design of the Yokomo better, and I personally find the Yok easier to work on.
I have recently just converted my SSG to a Rayspeed and the conversion fixes some things (steering plate, shock positions, and chassis stiffness) that alot of us found after driving the car for a while.
Also take a look at the new JRXS...might be the best of both worlds!
I have recently just converted my SSG to a Rayspeed and the conversion fixes some things (steering plate, shock positions, and chassis stiffness) that alot of us found after driving the car for a while.
Also take a look at the new JRXS...might be the best of both worlds!
10-14-2004, 05:17 PM
Originally posted by artwork
Yokomo is the best car I have ever driven...The car is alot different then the Losi. I have owned both and both cars have the potential to be fast. I personally like the design of the Yokomo better, and I personally find the Yok easier to work on.
Yokomo is the best car I have ever driven...The car is alot different then the Losi. I have owned both and both cars have the potential to be fast. I personally like the design of the Yokomo better, and I personally find the Yok easier to work on.
- jaYBee
10-15-2004, 12:35 AM
Tech Regular
Hey guys since I have been on here alot talking about the yokomo and things I thought i would post my car up here for any of you Yokomo guys to see. I have a very good condition Yokomo CGM car, and I also have a black graphite ssg chassis. I have lots of spares some new and some not.
parts :
New:
C Hubs
Oneway
CVD
Sterring Knuckles
axles
Diff rings
Other parts:
Oneway
Spool
Diff
extra set of aluminum knuckles
Tons of other parts
CGM Car:
Ran outside for 1 race. Almost all graphite. Has Precision bearings in the car and the other bearings are also included.
Black chassis Car:
Has never seen pavement
$375
Electronics pictured are not included.
Email me at [email protected]
parts :
New:
C Hubs
Oneway
CVD
Sterring Knuckles
axles
Diff rings
Other parts:
Oneway
Spool
Diff
extra set of aluminum knuckles
Tons of other parts
CGM Car:
Ran outside for 1 race. Almost all graphite. Has Precision bearings in the car and the other bearings are also included.
Black chassis Car:
Has never seen pavement
$375
Electronics pictured are not included.
Email me at [email protected]
10-15-2004, 08:55 AM
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Hope so or being in Korea is going to his head
I'm finging that on an extremely tight carpet track that the stock springs work pretty well.... No sway bars either...
I am a little ticked off at the way the steering servo saver was done... I had issues with the stock plastic thingy so I had gone to a small Kimorough servo saver I had laying around... That worked fine with an S3003 doing the steering... I finally decided to go Digital and got a 9550 for the car... Needless to say, the ballcup would hit the servo.... Tried a million things and finally went out to my shed, got my RC10T (circa 1990) and swiped the 14 year old servo saver off, the large one.... Why couldn't they stay with the old design????
Hope so or being in Korea is going to his head
I'm finging that on an extremely tight carpet track that the stock springs work pretty well.... No sway bars either...
I am a little ticked off at the way the steering servo saver was done... I had issues with the stock plastic thingy so I had gone to a small Kimorough servo saver I had laying around... That worked fine with an S3003 doing the steering... I finally decided to go Digital and got a 9550 for the car... Needless to say, the ballcup would hit the servo.... Tried a million things and finally went out to my shed, got my RC10T (circa 1990) and swiped the 14 year old servo saver off, the large one.... Why couldn't they stay with the old design????
10-15-2004, 09:28 AM
9550
Originally posted by shooky
had the same problem with the 9550 but to remedy this I used those rubber bushings they included with the servo. I also used the JT racing aluminum servo mounts that have an adjustment that allows you to move the servo forward or back by fliping the mount over. It all worked out and still have the advantages of the low profile while not adding wieght from the servo saver. Just a helpfull tip.
had the same problem with the 9550 but to remedy this I used those rubber bushings they included with the servo. I also used the JT racing aluminum servo mounts that have an adjustment that allows you to move the servo forward or back by fliping the mount over. It all worked out and still have the advantages of the low profile while not adding wieght from the servo saver. Just a helpfull tip.
thanks