12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
08-21-2004, 06:30 PM
#9481
1
sounds like you left out the triangle shaped bit that goes in the shock body
2
the shock cap will screw down to shock body with rubber diaphram and foam in place
3
you have air in the shocks. you need to bleed the shocks
sounds like you left out the triangle shaped bit that goes in the shock body
2
the shock cap will screw down to shock body with rubber diaphram and foam in place
3
you have air in the shocks. you need to bleed the shocks
08-21-2004, 06:45 PM
#9482
Tech Master
Originally posted by jiggen5354
1
sounds like you left out the triangle shaped bit that goes in the shock body
2
the shock cap will screw down to shock body with rubber diaphram and foam in place
3
you have air in the shocks. you need to bleed the shocks
1
sounds like you left out the triangle shaped bit that goes in the shock body
2
the shock cap will screw down to shock body with rubber diaphram and foam in place
3
you have air in the shocks. you need to bleed the shocks
And the shock cap, I don't think I can screw it down any further and there is still a tiny gap left, true not much of a gap (about the size of the thickness of a bit of photo copy paper).
08-21-2004, 07:00 PM
#9483
just wondering, if you take the shock cap.. just the blue part and screw it on, does it hit the shock body? ok now fully assembled, did it hit the shock body? wonder if maybe the diapham is acting like a gasket or seal and maybe thats the difference. and yes the shock rod will fully extend without the spring. and yes with the shock rod fully extended you will have to screw the shock collar about half way down before it touches the spring. of course this makes a great setup if you plan on running off road.
and before you ask, no it is not a engineering defect to have the spring not touch anything when mounted on the car and the car sitting on a stand.
don't take this the wrong way, now how can i put this...you said earlier that you have been into rc cars since like 1988, could you please list the cars that you have built in the past.
and before you ask, no it is not a engineering defect to have the spring not touch anything when mounted on the car and the car sitting on a stand.
don't take this the wrong way, now how can i put this...you said earlier that you have been into rc cars since like 1988, could you please list the cars that you have built in the past.
08-21-2004, 07:09 PM
#9484
Tech Master
Originally posted by ritchie
just wondering, if you take the shock cap.. just the blue part and screw it on, does it hit the shock body? ok now fully assembled, did it hit the shock body? wonder if maybe the diapham is acting like a gasket or seal and maybe thats the difference. and yes the shock rod will fully extend without the spring. and yes with the shock rod fully extended you will have to screw the shock collar about half way down before it touches the spring. of course this makes a great setup if you plan on running off road.
and before you ask, no it is not a engineering defect to have the spring not touch anything when mounted on the car and the car sitting on a stand.
don't take this the wrong way, now how can i put this...you said earlier that you have been into rc cars since like 1988, could you please list the cars that you have built in the past.
just wondering, if you take the shock cap.. just the blue part and screw it on, does it hit the shock body? ok now fully assembled, did it hit the shock body? wonder if maybe the diapham is acting like a gasket or seal and maybe thats the difference. and yes the shock rod will fully extend without the spring. and yes with the shock rod fully extended you will have to screw the shock collar about half way down before it touches the spring. of course this makes a great setup if you plan on running off road.
and before you ask, no it is not a engineering defect to have the spring not touch anything when mounted on the car and the car sitting on a stand.
don't take this the wrong way, now how can i put this...you said earlier that you have been into rc cars since like 1988, could you please list the cars that you have built in the past.
since 1985......
Tamiya Subaru Brat
" Hotshot
" Fast Attack Vehicle
" Hotshot 2
Kyosho Turbo Optima mid (all versions)
Hirobo Zerda
Yokomo YZ10
PB mini mustang both single and two speed.
Associated RC 10
" RC 10 with track master belt drive
" Team Car
MIP 4wd RC10
Losi Jr X2 (both trailing and h-arm versions)
That's all I can remember at the moment.
08-21-2004, 07:24 PM
#9485
thats a nice list of cars, many a collector would like to some of those i bet.
08-21-2004, 07:37 PM
#9486
Tech Master
Originally posted by ritchie
thats a nice list of cars, many a collector would like to some of those i bet.
thats a nice list of cars, many a collector would like to some of those i bet.
Yeah I know dude I had to sell most of them to get back into this thing called onroad. lol
08-22-2004, 07:00 AM
#9488
its 7am sunday morning, overcast but not raining, i'm on my way south. if it rains, wer'e going to trcr to play in the dirt.
08-23-2004, 01:14 AM
#9489
Tech Regular
what are the ceramic dif balls like? do the last long? and how smooth are they?
thanks
A gower
thanks
A gower
08-23-2004, 03:27 AM
#9490
Originally posted by ritchie
....and yes with the shock rod fully extended you will have to screw the shock collar about half way down before it touches the spring. of course this makes a great setup if you plan on running off road.
....and yes with the shock rod fully extended you will have to screw the shock collar about half way down before it touches the spring. of course this makes a great setup if you plan on running off road.
Well you made me laugh anyway!!
08-23-2004, 03:48 AM
#9491
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Ok as to the first bit yeah the cap hits the shock body when the diaphram isn't there. As for the cars this is a list that may not be complete.....
since 1985......
Tamiya Subaru Brat
" Hotshot
" Fast Attack Vehicle
" Hotshot 2
Kyosho Turbo Optima mid (all versions)
Hirobo Zerda
Yokomo YZ10
PB mini mustang both single and two speed.
Associated RC 10
" RC 10 with track master belt drive
" Team Car
MIP 4wd RC10
Losi Jr X2 (both trailing and h-arm versions)
That's all I can remember at the moment.
Ok as to the first bit yeah the cap hits the shock body when the diaphram isn't there. As for the cars this is a list that may not be complete.....
since 1985......
Tamiya Subaru Brat
" Hotshot
" Fast Attack Vehicle
" Hotshot 2
Kyosho Turbo Optima mid (all versions)
Hirobo Zerda
Yokomo YZ10
PB mini mustang both single and two speed.
Associated RC 10
" RC 10 with track master belt drive
" Team Car
MIP 4wd RC10
Losi Jr X2 (both trailing and h-arm versions)
That's all I can remember at the moment.
Cars I've bought/owned:
Tamiya Sand Scorcher
Tamiya Super Champ
Kyosho Rocky
PB Nova
PB Mustang Xi2 Super Competition
Mardave Marauder
Mardave V10 Alpha
Losi XXX
Schumacher Pro Cat
Schumacher Bosscat
Schumacher Bosscat Works
Schumacher Cat 3000
Schumacher SST Axis Pro
Tenth Technology Predator P8
Yokomo MR4 BC
Yokomo SD SSG
AE TC3
Mugen MBX4 RR
HPI Savage SS
Other cars I've built for others:
Tamiya Subaru Brat (like the 'Frog' but with an RS380 motor)
Tamiya Fast attack Vehicle
Schumacher club 10
Thunder Tiger EK4
Wish list present:
Xray XB8
Mugen MBX5 SE
Losi LST
HPI Pro 4
SD Andy East chassis conversion
Wish list past:
Tamiya Avante
Tamiya 'black motor sprint'
Enjoy your sport!
and hold your head up high!
08-23-2004, 09:48 AM
#9492
Originally posted by Midnight
Tonight my car was perfectly hooked. At the end of the night two things changed. The humidity increased, and I went from 8.5 droop in the front to 7 off of the arm. I dont know what happen but the ass end wanted to swing out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
Tonight my car was perfectly hooked. At the end of the night two things changed. The humidity increased, and I went from 8.5 droop in the front to 7 off of the arm. I dont know what happen but the ass end wanted to swing out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
08-23-2004, 11:03 AM
#9494
Tech Regular
.
Last edited by agower; 08-23-2004 at 12:35 PM.
08-23-2004, 12:36 PM
#9495
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
CGM 1st Impressions
I just got back from vacation today. The last opportunity that I had to race was back on the August 14th (the day before I left for vacation). The 14th was also the first time that I ran my converted SD-Black as a CGM. I decided to use most of the settings from Matt Howard's setup sheet as a starting point. The only real problem I had with the conversion was mounting my servo. My Airtronics 94737 servo has the ears removed so, as a temporary measure, I decided to install a standard servo. 
Unfortunately, it seems that the mounts provided by Yokomo (supplied with my SD) don't quite work. The holes don't line up properly on the chassis when mounted on my Airtronics Standard Servo. Also, the short servo mount was still too tall???
Anyway, I decided to shoo goo my 94737 servo to the chassis. Evidently, I didn't allow enough time for the Shoo Goo to dry, since during setup at the track, my servo began to come unglued.
I was desperate to race, and I didn't have any other alternative so I used servo tape. The tape didn't keep the servo rock solid, but it did hold up through 3 qualifiers, and 1 main.
To sum things up... I characterize the CGM chassis the way John Bull did... Brilliant!!!
I felt like I could drive the CGM as fast as I wanted to without having to back off at all. It gave me so much confidence to drive fast that it was almost scary. Since the track layout was not the same as the previous week, I couldn't really compare lap time with my SD-Black chassis.
One thing is certain, the CGM is much easier to drive!!! I'm so glad that I made the change. I took second in the "A" main running lap times equal to the winner. I believe that I would have won if I were running foam tires like he was. I decided to stick with my Take Off CS27's since I was really preparing for a big charity race we have coming up on the 12th of September.
All I need to do now is mount my servo properly, try a few different adjustments (I had slighly more push) and I'll be ready.
Unfortunately, it seems that the mounts provided by Yokomo (supplied with my SD) don't quite work. The holes don't line up properly on the chassis when mounted on my Airtronics Standard Servo. Also, the short servo mount was still too tall???Anyway, I decided to shoo goo my 94737 servo to the chassis. Evidently, I didn't allow enough time for the Shoo Goo to dry, since during setup at the track, my servo began to come unglued.
I was desperate to race, and I didn't have any other alternative so I used servo tape. The tape didn't keep the servo rock solid, but it did hold up through 3 qualifiers, and 1 main.
To sum things up... I characterize the CGM chassis the way John Bull did... Brilliant!!!
I felt like I could drive the CGM as fast as I wanted to without having to back off at all. It gave me so much confidence to drive fast that it was almost scary. Since the track layout was not the same as the previous week, I couldn't really compare lap time with my SD-Black chassis.
One thing is certain, the CGM is much easier to drive!!! I'm so glad that I made the change. I took second in the "A" main running lap times equal to the winner. I believe that I would have won if I were running foam tires like he was. I decided to stick with my Take Off CS27's since I was really preparing for a big charity race we have coming up on the 12th of September.
All I need to do now is mount my servo properly, try a few different adjustments (I had slighly more push) and I'll be ready.