justrc

Just want to get some feed back on Square parts for SD, will any of SD owners be interested in Square parts?

Thanks.

JustRC

NightKidZ

I've got the Square Ti input shafts (F/R) in my car, no issues so far.

PLUS, the Square rear input shaft comes with TWO flats for the spur holder setscrew instead of one in the stock part.

Cheers

forty6

Heck yeah!! It would be nice if the prices would be comparable to JPN prices too so we don't have to get it from across the pond.
Tobee craft bits too if you can.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

hello,

I have a problem, when I tighting the tranny case cap to the tranny case the drive train seems to be bending on something. When I tighting the tranny case cap all the way down the drive train is not as free. But when losen it up a bit it becomes more free. Do you normal run the car like this.

I hope this makes sense. Any solution to this problem.

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

1- I replaced the stock one with a red dubro unit that was used for a gas car, the stock one is to soft and flexes when you use high end servos. I was going to install an alluminum one but i had this laying around. The stock one seemed to have play on my hitec servos splines.

2- not sure why this happens it does not to me. But if they are replace them with RPM ball cups. I instaled orings under all of my tie-rod ends to take out the slop in the suspension

3- again never happen to me yet. King pins do come out in cars like tl01 and tc3, best advice i can give is pre-tap your steering blocks and try a light thread lock, i have heard of guys using a tamiya thread lock that has a rubbery mixture so that it does not get hard and damage plastic threads as does the blue thread lock.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I haven't experienced any of Steve's problems. So I would not know about them. Just remember to use loctite where needed and never over tighten anything in plastic. finger tight is good enough.

As for Square parts, uhh hmmm I just have the Ti front axles are they are great. Nice and light and don't break. I have the Ti 'bones on the way along with a Ti rear input shaft. As for my stock input shaft.. one shaft has a one sided flat spot. The other stock input shaft has 2. Go figure (one is Japanese version.. one is US version.) I had the Tobee craft input shafts, but the rear one slightly warped. This put down some noticable drag in the drive train. I still have the front Tobee input shaft in my car. I've also had Square parts for my old Evo3 and they fit nicely.

Now for the tranny case deal... you aren't super hand tightening the cases are you? Just do it nice and snug (finger tight is enough... not wrist tight.) Also check your shimming and shims. Some times the shims will fall out of place and the little "pinion" gear will not seat properly.

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

KING PINS.

If you start off with a new set of hubs and don't screw up the threads by overtightening, the king pins don't come loose. I try and avoid removing the king pins as much as possible once they're in place. However if you do need to remove them, then just put a bit of locktite on the threads.

SERVO HORN.

I can't say i've had any trouble with the standard servo horn. True it does flex more than I'd like it to.

TRANNY CASES.

I found that one one of mine too. If you tighten the screws right up the diff tightens up. I simply didn't screw it right up, and it's OK. It would have been nicer if they did fit properly though!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

highwayman

iTrader: (2)

this happened to me in the rear diff case, and a friend of mine in the front... the problem stems from the fact that you have to force the input shaft forward before you tighten the pin...

i thought that the binding was caused by the tranny case and i tried "blueprinting" them, but it never did... the only solution i found was that the input shaft wasn't fully seated...

hope this helps...

lonestar1127

iTrader: (1)

hi NightKidZ, where u got yr square stuffs??

NightKidZ

Lonestar1127:
B uK it Merah

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

For those looking for a larger bumper for extra protection..
Use the GT4 foam bumber it's wider than stock 180mm

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

Thats a good idea.

But its been my experience that the foam bumper while wide will only really protect your body and minimize some impact to the suspentions. A lower kydex or graphite main bumper is needed to protect the suspension properly.

All cars like x-ray,tc3,SD,EVo3 ect. come with stubby main bumpers with larger foam bumpers. Works fine if you never hit but to be 100% safe i like to run full width plastic bumper..


Question is can nitro lower bumper fit the SD and is it wide?

When i first got my serpent impulse it came with a stubby, we soon found out that the IMPACT wide bumper bolted right on with just a snip and trim to get the thing under 200mm

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

For me a larger foam bumper is the way to go. Absorbs alot of impact... having a wider and bigger plastic lower bumper is harder on the chassis and components. the Impact is more direct. I guess everyone has there one preference..

Here's the GT4 wide lower bumper: Looks like it bolts on top of the small stubby one...

highwayman

iTrader: (2)

has anyone tried the GT4 lower bumper?

yodace

iTrader: (8)

I was wondering if you guys put any grease were the diff and the input gear meet.

Also does the drive losen up a bit after running?