Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#2446
Tech Adept
Confused Now??
Hi !!
Ok Im confused big time now??
Been following the development of the SD shocks thingy for sometime, there seems to quite a number of recommended improvement to the shocks of the SD .......
Johnbull or anyone would you like to share with us the best reco to maximise the SD shock .... besides changing to the AE ones??
Thank you Thank You Thank You!!
Ok Im confused big time now??
Been following the development of the SD shocks thingy for sometime, there seems to quite a number of recommended improvement to the shocks of the SD .......
Johnbull or anyone would you like to share with us the best reco to maximise the SD shock .... besides changing to the AE ones??
Thank you Thank You Thank You!!
#2447
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Joe- maybe you are "underdriving" the car, as opposed to "overdriving" it normally. It's possible with the spool to not drive aggressively enough and you are just giving away corner speed. Also, how was the front-rear balance at both high and low speed cornering? It's possible the rear was too "stuck" and you weren't allowing the benefitsd of the spool to come into play. From my experience, if you don't loosen the car up in the rear with a spool, it doesn't want to rotate well through the turns. One last thing- are you using the brakes? There is no point of having a spool if you are driving it like a one-way. I know that sounds dumb, but I'll be the first one to forget I have a spool with 4 wheel braking, and I'll drive with little or no brakes just like a one-way and wonder why it isn't any faster...
Well, that's something to think about...
Well, that's something to think about...
#2448
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
Joe- maybe you are "underdriving" the car, as opposed to "overdriving" it normally. It's possible with the spool to not drive aggressively enough and you are just giving away corner speed. Also, how was the front-rear balance at both high and low speed cornering? It's possible the rear was too "stuck" and you weren't allowing the benefitsd of the spool to come into play. From my experience, if you don't loosen the car up in the rear with a spool, it doesn't want to rotate well through the turns. One last thing- are you using the brakes? There is no point of having a spool if you are driving it like a one-way. I know that sounds dumb, but I'll be the first one to forget I have a spool with 4 wheel braking, and I'll drive with little or no brakes just like a one-way and wonder why it isn't any faster...
Well, that's something to think about...
Joe- maybe you are "underdriving" the car, as opposed to "overdriving" it normally. It's possible with the spool to not drive aggressively enough and you are just giving away corner speed. Also, how was the front-rear balance at both high and low speed cornering? It's possible the rear was too "stuck" and you weren't allowing the benefitsd of the spool to come into play. From my experience, if you don't loosen the car up in the rear with a spool, it doesn't want to rotate well through the turns. One last thing- are you using the brakes? There is no point of having a spool if you are driving it like a one-way. I know that sounds dumb, but I'll be the first one to forget I have a spool with 4 wheel braking, and I'll drive with little or no brakes just like a one-way and wonder why it isn't any faster...
Well, that's something to think about...
#2449
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
2 questions I need help on please I have heard the 90 servo rotation being done does anyone have pictures? I am using the Futaba S9550 and it would free up alot of real estate on the lower deck.
How are you guys building you spools? For the EVO I had some made locally but I have not been able to give the person a Yok box to make one
I got my car last weekend, Peter Robinson and I both just switched to the Yok. Still learning how the car reacts but I have been very impressed on build quality and durability. I heard all the comments on Brokomo and all the others and the only issue I had last weekend was losing a ball stud on the rear upright on a hard hit on the left rear.
Another tip on the shocks I was having issues trying to get the length short enough to get correct droop and ride height settings. I used Tamiya lower spring perch and trimmed about 1mm off the Yok shock end to drop the lower perch and ride height. Now that I think about it it should work with the stock perch also.
Thanks for the help
How are you guys building you spools? For the EVO I had some made locally but I have not been able to give the person a Yok box to make one
I got my car last weekend, Peter Robinson and I both just switched to the Yok. Still learning how the car reacts but I have been very impressed on build quality and durability. I heard all the comments on Brokomo and all the others and the only issue I had last weekend was losing a ball stud on the rear upright on a hard hit on the left rear.
Another tip on the shocks I was having issues trying to get the length short enough to get correct droop and ride height settings. I used Tamiya lower spring perch and trimmed about 1mm off the Yok shock end to drop the lower perch and ride height. Now that I think about it it should work with the stock perch also.
Thanks for the help
#2450
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Difuser - http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0954_JPG.htm
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN1001_JPG.htm
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0956_JPG.htm
That is with the S9451 and even with that servo it freed up a lot of space, but the S9450 will do even better for you.
Spool building - The only thing you will need to buy is sandpaper (I used 320 grit wet sand paper and it worked fine) First off glue the sandpaper to the diff rings with some CA, then cut it out to the shape of the ring. (finished piece) http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0975_JPG.htm
Install the diff rings like normal, but when putting the diff on, do not put any balls in the gear. Forget the thrust bearing, but put a spacer in it's place so that the screw is not too long. Use the spring on the screw as well so that you retain the length. Crank the screw down, and your diff is locked... Spool-a-rific!
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN1001_JPG.htm
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0956_JPG.htm
That is with the S9451 and even with that servo it freed up a lot of space, but the S9450 will do even better for you.
Spool building - The only thing you will need to buy is sandpaper (I used 320 grit wet sand paper and it worked fine) First off glue the sandpaper to the diff rings with some CA, then cut it out to the shape of the ring. (finished piece) http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0975_JPG.htm
Install the diff rings like normal, but when putting the diff on, do not put any balls in the gear. Forget the thrust bearing, but put a spacer in it's place so that the screw is not too long. Use the spring on the screw as well so that you retain the length. Crank the screw down, and your diff is locked... Spool-a-rific!
#2451
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Randman thanks for the Reply looks like you are flipping the entire assembly for the steering from right to left.
How do the diff halves hold up I did the same with Losi pads on the EVO and killed outdrives in 3 runs. After that I had them made in both Steel and Alum. The alum were dead in 5 runs at Reedy, but the steels are beautiful and hold up they also weigh as much as the original 1-way assembly.
Is there any interest when Troy makes the Yok version, for people here to pick them up also? The Tamiya version he is selling for $15 alum for $20 and I am sure the pricing would be the same. Let me know I will have more made and put an address here for people to contact Troy directly
How do the diff halves hold up I did the same with Losi pads on the EVO and killed outdrives in 3 runs. After that I had them made in both Steel and Alum. The alum were dead in 5 runs at Reedy, but the steels are beautiful and hold up they also weigh as much as the original 1-way assembly.
Is there any interest when Troy makes the Yok version, for people here to pick them up also? The Tamiya version he is selling for $15 alum for $20 and I am sure the pricing would be the same. Let me know I will have more made and put an address here for people to contact Troy directly
#2452
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Well Difuser, I was on the fence about the yok vs tamiya car and got a SD about a month ago and I know you will like the car! I am more than interested in getting a steel spool for my yok! I raced with Barry Baker at a race and he showed us his for his tc3 and that would be killer to have one for the yok!
Put me down for one for sure!
Jeff
Put me down for one for sure!
Jeff
#2453
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
I didn't have any problems with the diff halves actually. I only had 3 runs on them with an 8x2, but they showed almost no wear, and obviously no breakage. I think the aluminum ring helps support the outdrive enough to where there wont be any breakage problems. I know a steel spool would sell like mad though, I'm sure at least 50% or more of the SD drivers on this thread alone would be interested in one.
#2454
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
Difuser- I built a spool with the sandpaper pads for the NORRCA nats this summer and ran it all weekend long and there was only very minor wear on the outdrives. I did have to add some antisquat and raise the ballstud under the rear hub carrier to get the rear to rotate through the corners.
#2455
D,
I would definitly be interested in the steel spool for the yoko. it would take the worrys away from breaking the outdrives in a race.
I would definitly be interested in the steel spool for the yoko. it would take the worrys away from breaking the outdrives in a race.
#2456
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Glad to hear the replies I will have Troy get on it ASAP.
On antisquat and kick up do the pins bind from raising them on the EVO they wer captured in a ball stud which let them move freely I noticed the Yok is captured differently and didn't seem to like having the AS and KU in them. I also haven't messed with it too much yet either.
Thanks again
On antisquat and kick up do the pins bind from raising them on the EVO they wer captured in a ball stud which let them move freely I noticed the Yok is captured differently and didn't seem to like having the AS and KU in them. I also haven't messed with it too much yet either.
Thanks again
#2458
sup guys!!
anyone here tried running wihout the center deck/brace??? what are the effects?? planning to try it tom... cos i tried taking it out it seems that the flex characteristics of the chassis is still the same with or without it.. to anyone who has tried this pls reply
anyone here tried running wihout the center deck/brace??? what are the effects?? planning to try it tom... cos i tried taking it out it seems that the flex characteristics of the chassis is still the same with or without it.. to anyone who has tried this pls reply
#2459
I tryied it. Couldn't really seem to tell the difference with it on or off. but that was on asphalt. I don't know what kind of surface you are running on. I have a buddy that leaves his off for ashphalt and says that it works better. I just can't see the difference.
#2460
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
I tried it at SoCal, and the car just couldn't get hooked up right, the back end flexed up too much in high speed turns, and lost bite on the inside, and would spin out. Put the brace back on and noticed a really nice increase in traction. That is on banked, medium grip asphault.