Foam Tires for Dummies
12-19-2006, 04:49 PM
#31
I've been tracking my lap times pretty closely and I was surprised how related my times were to the size of the tires. If you read X-ray's T2 setup manual it tells you to run 60mm for practice, 58mm for Qualies and 56mm for races. I ran my best times yet on 56.7mm tires that were 4 weeks old. Then in the main it broke, I should have known it would, it was cracked to start with. I'm going to try 56mm next just as a test.
12-19-2006, 06:08 PM
#33
Originally Posted by Warhawk 1
I've been tracking my lap times pretty closely and I was surprised how related my times were to the size of the tires. If you read X-ray's T2 setup manual it tells you to run 60mm for practice, 58mm for Qualies and 56mm for races. I ran my best times yet on 56.7mm tires that were 4 weeks old. Then in the main it broke, I should have known it would, it was cracked to start with. I'm going to try 56mm next just as a test.
12-19-2006, 10:21 PM
#34
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
[QUOTE=swopemike]Where do you get the speed sew, in craft section ?
I tried both "superglue" type and "shoe goo" types. Both work remarkably well for repair, although for prevention, so far "superglue" type is superior adhesion (works for multiple runs).
Speed Sew will be in the sewing department at most department stores (Walmart). It's actually fabric glue but feels like liquid rubber. This stuff really blends with the foam and doesn't harden like CA or Goop. You're gonna like it.
BTW - Jaco 26mm 2 stages are one to two tenths quicker no doubt about it but they are a little fragile compared to Parmas or GQs.
I tried both "superglue" type and "shoe goo" types. Both work remarkably well for repair, although for prevention, so far "superglue" type is superior adhesion (works for multiple runs).
Speed Sew will be in the sewing department at most department stores (Walmart). It's actually fabric glue but feels like liquid rubber. This stuff really blends with the foam and doesn't harden like CA or Goop. You're gonna like it.
BTW - Jaco 26mm 2 stages are one to two tenths quicker no doubt about it but they are a little fragile compared to Parmas or GQs.
03-19-2007, 07:39 AM
#35
I need some good advice on specific tires for mod touring on asphalt. We're going to run this class on our outdoor track (Mountwood WV, 112x76 feet, somewhat technical track). I will be running Novak 4.5 brushless w/sintered rotor on my ancient TC3 so plenty of horsepower. Please list any experiences/recommendations.
PS Great advice on stock foams, I used it this winter. 57mm handles great and much less chunking. I would not have believed 4 or even 2mm would make such a difference, boy was I wrong!
I found the sidewall height most important, then glue, then rounding edges in order of importance to avoid chunks. Plus 57 mm handles great. 
Thanks again.
PS Great advice on stock foams, I used it this winter. 57mm handles great and much less chunking. I would not have believed 4 or even 2mm would make such a difference, boy was I wrong!
I found the sidewall height most important, then glue, then rounding edges in order of importance to avoid chunks. Plus 57 mm handles great. Thanks again.
08-01-2007, 03:27 AM
#37
Hi, i'd just like to ask Swoops question again, and seeing that most of us can count, it is fairly easy to figure out that a 42shore is harder than a 40, which is in turn harder than a 38 and so on. We'll leave the numbered shore ratings alone, the question is:
how to the colors rate.
is a purple harder than a pink, and how does a double pink compare to a pink/orange. etc etc
numbers are easy, colors - no idea....
how to the colors rate.
is a purple harder than a pink, and how does a double pink compare to a pink/orange. etc etc
numbers are easy, colors - no idea....
08-01-2007, 06:12 AM
#38
http://www.teamtrinity.com
http://www.teamtrinity.com/shop/tire.../newtires.html
They have a color/shore chart. Not sure if colors differ by mfg, maybe someone else knows.
http://www.teamtrinity.com/shop/tire.../newtires.html
They have a color/shore chart. Not sure if colors differ by mfg, maybe someone else knows.
10-10-2007, 11:11 AM
#39
Club carpet racing season is open. Time to revive this thread.
Here is some good links I've trolled recently.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=143795
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=175950
I ran the Parma Pro 53's this past weekend, at 57-58mm, and I liked them. But they were expensive from my LHS. I found that the lower the sidewall, the better the tire ran. 60mm was too high to start at least with my setup (I was also running Magenta all around which was a lot of steering). They also seemed to hold up well in terms of tire wear.
Here is some good links I've trolled recently.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=143795
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=175950
I ran the Parma Pro 53's this past weekend, at 57-58mm, and I liked them. But they were expensive from my LHS. I found that the lower the sidewall, the better the tire ran. 60mm was too high to start at least with my setup (I was also running Magenta all around which was a lot of steering). They also seemed to hold up well in terms of tire wear.
10-10-2007, 12:57 PM
#40
Here's a question:
Where do chunks matter, and where do they not? Like, lets say you're running the same tires (magenta) on all four corners, and you get a deep chunk in the middle of one of your tires. Where would you put that tire to minimize the impact of the chunk? And inevitably, side walls will chunk a little, or peel before the tire is too low to toss. Would you put those on the front or back to minimize the impact?
Of course you'd want perfect tires in a perfect world, but foams can sustain damage pretty easily, and it's not cost effective in the club to toss a tire every time it peels a little.
Where do chunks matter, and where do they not? Like, lets say you're running the same tires (magenta) on all four corners, and you get a deep chunk in the middle of one of your tires. Where would you put that tire to minimize the impact of the chunk? And inevitably, side walls will chunk a little, or peel before the tire is too low to toss. Would you put those on the front or back to minimize the impact?
Of course you'd want perfect tires in a perfect world, but foams can sustain damage pretty easily, and it's not cost effective in the club to toss a tire every time it peels a little.
10-10-2007, 01:45 PM
#41
10-10-2007, 01:59 PM
#42
I try to repair tires with tires that have gotten destroyed, or orphan tires, and some contact cement. Cut a chunk to fit (roughly), put cement on both the gouge and the piece, let set-up for about 3 - 5 minutes, lightly wet with lacquer thinner (helps things slide around), and stick them together and hold for about 15 seconds, then let cure. Then re-true the tire.
If it's a rush job before a race, and it's only a cut, spread the cut open using rubber tire glue (like losi) and a micro applicator, coat with just enough glue to get the job done. I usually take a towel from wiping down tires, pick a spot that I used to wipe the tires off with recently and press out the rest of the glue quickly. It usually doesn't stick to the glue joint.
If the tire is peeling from the rim, tire glue it. Most of the tires on the market have been stuck originally with ca to the rims anyway.
With a new set of tires, I try to put a small bead of glue on the foam/rim joint. This helps to prevent the tires from peeling off the rim. Check this joint regularly and re-apply glue if it ever goes missing. After I started this practice, I hardly ever peeled tires since.
If it's a rush job before a race, and it's only a cut, spread the cut open using rubber tire glue (like losi) and a micro applicator, coat with just enough glue to get the job done. I usually take a towel from wiping down tires, pick a spot that I used to wipe the tires off with recently and press out the rest of the glue quickly. It usually doesn't stick to the glue joint.
If the tire is peeling from the rim, tire glue it. Most of the tires on the market have been stuck originally with ca to the rims anyway.
With a new set of tires, I try to put a small bead of glue on the foam/rim joint. This helps to prevent the tires from peeling off the rim. Check this joint regularly and re-apply glue if it ever goes missing. After I started this practice, I hardly ever peeled tires since.
10-10-2007, 06:04 PM
#44
Tech Apprentice
also for harder tired useing softer shocks and springs can help regain that grip soft on the rear for acceleration grip soft on the fron for steering it's a tradeoff for which you want also depends on track soft on the front for complex slow tracks soft on the rear for simple fast tracks. the reason for this is all about weaight transfer and the softer springs alow for this.
10-10-2007, 07:59 PM
#45
yup. coupla reasons.
the front loads up quite a bit more and due to castor uses more of the contact patch. this allows any rips to get pulled off and any rough edges to get rounded by the track. additionally, any loss of grip on a front tire leads to a push, which can usually be dealt with affectively. traction loss to the rear and your qualifier is often thrown away.
the front loads up quite a bit more and due to castor uses more of the contact patch. this allows any rips to get pulled off and any rough edges to get rounded by the track. additionally, any loss of grip on a front tire leads to a push, which can usually be dealt with affectively. traction loss to the rear and your qualifier is often thrown away.