Having a quiet car.
08-30-2006, 08:02 AM
#16
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
I totally agree, my only complaint is that the pinions don't fit the T2 all that well.
I had completely bought a 48p and 64p sets of your gears..... But the pinions are too tall to get the proper fit on the T2. When I used them on the RDX it was silent.
FOr the T2 the Xenon ones do the trick, they have two different set screw locations and are shorter.
Hope that gives you all the options you need.
And as for the TT-01 or the other Tamiya low cost kits...The gear mesh is setup by where the screws go into the motor, and isn't very efficent.
-Shookie <><
I had completely bought a 48p and 64p sets of your gears..... But the pinions are too tall to get the proper fit on the T2. When I used them on the RDX it was silent.
FOr the T2 the Xenon ones do the trick, they have two different set screw locations and are shorter.
Hope that gives you all the options you need.
And as for the TT-01 or the other Tamiya low cost kits...The gear mesh is setup by where the screws go into the motor, and isn't very efficent.
-Shookie <><
Have you tried mounting the pinion with the set screw at the very end of the armature shaft? I’m assuming that you have been trying to mount the pinion with the set screw closer to the motor can (like you would normally think of mounting a pinion), but try it in reverse. I’ve been using the older style pinions and the spurs designed with the countersunk mounting holes on my T2 with absolutely no problems.
Brian
08-30-2006, 08:18 AM
#17
Tony,
Mine were the older taller version...
I like the shorty ones...
Professor,
I did try but with the Stock Spur and RW spurs the older tallers wouldn't fit no matter which way I tried....
Tony do me a favor and give the part number for a 48p 84t T2 specific spur...
Thanks,
-Shookie <><
Wish I would have talked to you before buying new pinions...But hey I will try the newer spur and if it works perfect I will just sell off the other pinions...
Mine were the older taller version...
I like the shorty ones...
Professor,
I did try but with the Stock Spur and RW spurs the older tallers wouldn't fit no matter which way I tried....
Tony do me a favor and give the part number for a 48p 84t T2 specific spur...
Thanks,
-Shookie <><
Wish I would have talked to you before buying new pinions...But hey I will try the newer spur and if it works perfect I will just sell off the other pinions...
08-30-2006, 02:11 PM
#20
Tony, you got mail 
08-30-2006, 04:26 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Tornado_Racing
No problem, and by no means did I take your post as bashing. If we have problems with our products we like to hear about them so improvements can be made.
What do your pinions look like? We have had 2 different designs. Our latest called the "shorty" does not have the lip on the set screw side and the recessed area is much narrower.
Below is a pic of our "shorty" pinions (on the rack) and our older version. Sorry for the blurry pic.
What do your pinions look like? We have had 2 different designs. Our latest called the "shorty" does not have the lip on the set screw side and the recessed area is much narrower.
Below is a pic of our "shorty" pinions (on the rack) and our older version. Sorry for the blurry pic.
I too have had some issues using pinions on my T2 as they barely clamp on the shaft
08-30-2006, 05:13 PM
#22
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didn't read the whole thread, so don't know if this was mentioned, but all parts don't come out in the mold the same way every time. there will always be some that are smaller or larger, if it's too small everything is loose and will make noise.
08-30-2006, 11:07 PM
#23
These gears are not molded.
They are machined.
Most high end spur gears are machined too.
They are machined.
Most high end spur gears are machined too.
08-31-2006, 03:43 AM
#25
Tech Rookie
Toothpaste...
Rumor has it that many Tamiya Mini drivers use plain toothpaste to "break in" their transmission gears, thus creating a quieter car.
You might give this a try.
hb
You might give this a try.
hb
08-31-2006, 05:40 AM
#26
Originally Posted by heftybone
Rumor has it that many Tamiya Mini drivers use plain toothpaste to "break in" their transmission gears, thus creating a quieter car.
You might give this a try.
hb
You might give this a try.
hb
Atleast it will smell minty
08-31-2006, 06:33 AM
#27
Originally Posted by PitCrew
I can tell these gears are Hobbed. By any chance do you have shaping machines? From my experience, shaped gears have less tooth-to-tooth and total composite error... But by no means are hobbed gears bad. I like the shortened pinions.
I too have had some issues using pinions on my T2 as they barely clamp on the shaft
I too have had some issues using pinions on my T2 as they barely clamp on the shaft
The tooth to tooth error or spacing is the error from one tooth to the other and the total composite error is the error in one revolution of the gear. The A.G.M.A. level that the gear is manufactured to determines what this needs to be. The higher the level say a quality 14 is a closer tighter gear than say an 8.
The process to cut the gears makes no difference, if the drawing calls for A.G.M.A. quality 14 gear it has to be that whether it is shaped or hobbed. We hob all our RC gears both pinion and spur and are inspected with a precision ground master gear which checks the tooth to tooth and total composite error at the same time. The exception is with our new 9,10, and 11 tooth 48 pitch pinions, with the gear being smaller than the hub behind it we use a shaper, this allows us not to cut into the hub behind the gear leaving more room for the set screw. Both gears are inspected on the same gear testing machine and both styles must meet the same quality level.
It is how the blanks are made, how the gear cutting machine is set up and the experience of the operator that determines the quality of the gear. Each gear manufacturer that makes is own product determines how good they want there gears cut they control the quality level, some manufacture closer than others they all may be cutting 64 pitch pinions but they are all not the same.
Gear noise can come from a number of things, if the tooth to tooth error is to large but the gear is concentric or round you will get gear noise, and the same goes for the opposite you can have very close tooth to tooth error but have a gear that that is eccentric or so to speak egg shaped to make it simple you will get gear noise. Also it is operator error, the guy who sets up the car, gears need backlash in order to work, to tight and the gears will make noise, and to much they will make noise.
You need to start with a quality gear and know how to set the backlash on the gears to get them to run efficient and quiet. The average racer out there has no way of knowing what the quality of gear they are purchasing is, there is no way of knowing unless you have a way to inspect the gears and that is a very costly expense.
I hope this offers some insight on gear inspection, this is just a small amount of information regarding gear manufacturing and inspection, there is much more to it but I think this clear some things up.
08-31-2006, 06:46 AM
#28
Originally Posted by Tornado_Racing
Very good, someone sounds like they know something about gears. The shaping process of cutting a gear has nothing to do with the quality of the gear. In the gear industry there are different quality levels some very close for the medical and avionics industry for example and some not so close or commercial grade such as mixing popcorn. The A.G.M.A. or American Gear Manufacturers Association sets the standard.
The tooth to tooth error or spacing is the error from one tooth to the other and the total composite error is the error in one revolution of the gear. The A.G.M.A. level that the gear is manufactured to determines what this needs to be. The higher the level say a quality 14 is a closer tighter gear than say an 8.
The process to cut the gears makes no difference, if the drawing calls for A.G.M.A. quality 14 gear it has to be that whether it is shaped or hobbed. We hob all our RC gears both pinion and spur and are inspected with a precision ground master gear which checks the tooth to tooth and total composite error at the same time. The exception is with our new 9,10, and 11 tooth 48 pitch pinions, with the gear being smaller than the hub behind it we use a shaper, this allows us not to cut into the hub behind the gear leaving more room for the set screw. Both gears are inspected on the same gear testing machine and both styles must meet the same quality level.
It is how the blanks are made, how the gear cutting machine is set up and the experience of the operator that determines the quality of the gear. Each gear manufacturer that makes is own product determines how good they want there gears cut they control the quality level, some manufacture closer than others they all may be cutting 64 pitch pinions but they are all not the same.
Gear noise can come from a number of things, if the tooth to tooth error is to large but the gear is concentric or round you will get gear noise, and the same goes for the opposite you can have very close tooth to tooth error but have a gear that that is eccentric or so to speak egg shaped to make it simple you will get gear noise. Also it is operator error, the guy who sets up the car, gears need backlash in order to work, to tight and the gears will make noise, and to much they will make noise.
You need to start with a quality gear and know how to set the backlash on the gears to get them to run efficient and quiet. The average racer out there has no way of knowing what the quality of gear they are purchasing is, there is no way of knowing unless you have a way to inspect the gears and that is a very costly expense.
I hope this offers some insight on gear inspection, this is just a small amount of information regarding gear manufacturing and inspection, there is much more to it but I think this clear some things up.
The tooth to tooth error or spacing is the error from one tooth to the other and the total composite error is the error in one revolution of the gear. The A.G.M.A. level that the gear is manufactured to determines what this needs to be. The higher the level say a quality 14 is a closer tighter gear than say an 8.
The process to cut the gears makes no difference, if the drawing calls for A.G.M.A. quality 14 gear it has to be that whether it is shaped or hobbed. We hob all our RC gears both pinion and spur and are inspected with a precision ground master gear which checks the tooth to tooth and total composite error at the same time. The exception is with our new 9,10, and 11 tooth 48 pitch pinions, with the gear being smaller than the hub behind it we use a shaper, this allows us not to cut into the hub behind the gear leaving more room for the set screw. Both gears are inspected on the same gear testing machine and both styles must meet the same quality level.
It is how the blanks are made, how the gear cutting machine is set up and the experience of the operator that determines the quality of the gear. Each gear manufacturer that makes is own product determines how good they want there gears cut they control the quality level, some manufacture closer than others they all may be cutting 64 pitch pinions but they are all not the same.
Gear noise can come from a number of things, if the tooth to tooth error is to large but the gear is concentric or round you will get gear noise, and the same goes for the opposite you can have very close tooth to tooth error but have a gear that that is eccentric or so to speak egg shaped to make it simple you will get gear noise. Also it is operator error, the guy who sets up the car, gears need backlash in order to work, to tight and the gears will make noise, and to much they will make noise.
You need to start with a quality gear and know how to set the backlash on the gears to get them to run efficient and quiet. The average racer out there has no way of knowing what the quality of gear they are purchasing is, there is no way of knowing unless you have a way to inspect the gears and that is a very costly expense.
I hope this offers some insight on gear inspection, this is just a small amount of information regarding gear manufacturing and inspection, there is much more to it but I think this clear some things up.
08-31-2006, 06:50 AM
#29
I understand some of what I just read. But parts of it are complicated. I think that I kind of understand this because of setting up ring & pinion for a real Toyota truck. As most of us read more and more about this we will better understand. Thanks for the knowledge.
08-31-2006, 08:16 AM
#30
Originally Posted by Tornado_Racing
Also it is operator error, the guy who sets up the car, gears need backlash in order to work, to tight and the gears will make noise, and to much they will make noise.