YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Use the inner front ackerman holes (as described on this page),
put shims under the ball studs in the rear hub carrier
the car is sensitive to roll center and camber gain settings so use these to your advantage
the car changes directions much more quickly than other cars so for sweeping turns you may need a slightly thicker sway bar than you are used to
There are people in this thread that are wicked fast: Mike Haynes, Donnie Lia, Greg Sharpe, Lucas Urbain, Dragon Fire etc(all currently running the car), Jason Schreffler, Larry Fairtrace (they switched to top but still help out with tips when they can) Their setup sheets are posted on the internet, and i think John Lee has them on his blog and some are on petite RC. If you go one or two pages back you can find Haynes and Lia's setup from Control Freakz and Jackson raceway. I would default to those and use them as a starting point.

I like Fairtrace's setup because i don't have to change much when i go to different tracks, it's pretty stable everywhere. I haven't tried some of the newer sheets but i hear Haynes was unstoppable at Jackson.

Hyper_Mike

iTrader: (8)

For what it's worth I had been struggling with understeer on my R and tried Haynes' Jackson setup and it was DIALED...absolutely the best I've had it working since I started with it this past winter!

Cheers,
Mike

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

This is not true, we modified the pulleys before the FF shaft was available. basically take the pulleys apart, sand down the plastic side until its only as thick as the belt, then shim them a bit and they will clear. I posted more detailed instructions somewhere this thread

flyintrtle

iTrader: (1)

I stand corrected. It was a lot easier for me to get the FF shaft, then to have to do that & also get a spur adapter to use spurs other then Losi.

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

Glad its working for you

Team Dremel...yea...Larcher you need your pitbox to be full o Losi again

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Mike are you running a cut top deck ? Is it worth the work ? This would be for rubber/carpet/17.5 .
Thanks.

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

I have been playing around with this for pavement, but for carpet run a regular deck, it will be fine.

jrxs-r

iTrader: (11)

Hey everyone.... Just finished the local WA 2010 Winterchampionships here. Qualified 2nd, finished 2nd. Had a bit of trouble with traffice in the finals. Setup is for med-bite rubber carpet w/o traction compound, 10.5 boosted.

b-man777

Hey all: So when did Mike Haynes switch back to losi? Also did the switch have anything to do with the fact that schumacher closed their USA office? Thanks for the info

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

For the guys running the TC5 diff screw, how are you stopping it going all the way through the diff tube? just running the thrust underneath, or something else to support it?

Cheers
Ed

FREAKAH

So while changing out one of my spindle/hubs because of an oblong hole, when I press the bearing into the new spindle/hub it's very tight. It was like that on the other hubs that I changed but this one seems a bit tighter. It's making the bearing bind slightly on the shaft.

Anyone else notice that with the replacement parts?

Maybe the moulds are wearing down(is that possible?)?

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

You should have seen his vta jrx at the big T&L trophy race a few weeks ago.Looked like it was on rails.

Mike was that a new vta setup or one of the old ones?
I know grip was very high. (burned the tread off all of my tires).

I was using Lia's Jackson rubber setup with Losi springs/shorter rear link and my car had a bad mid corner push.

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

Yep.
Had the same deal with a set a few weeks ago.
I had no bind,just felt things were much tighter.
Just for hell of it,try another set of bearings.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I run the thrust towards the center of the diff... ie...
diff screw
blue foam washer
tc5 diff spring
outer thrust washer
ceramic thrust bearing
inner thrust washer

This keeps the thrust bearing flat against diff tube for even pressure and gives the length of the diff spring and screw to move or twist around if something is uneven. I find that a diff built this way is less likely to have tight spots so you can get more mileage out of the same parts which just helps to reduce the cost of racing. I have 4 complete diffs ready to go all the time and keep two for clubbies (older parts) and two for events which use newer parts but these days the difference between them is very small thanks to this setup.

BennyBagems

iTrader: (15)

What's the latest on the spool? Any progress?
Would love to get one in my car soon, second place is the best I can manage at the moment, once I can brake hard for the hairpins i will be all over the leader.