52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
06-02-2010, 04:20 PM
Be carefull, just going to light springs will usually not be good, you have to tune the rest of the car toward that direction, ex. a stiff oil and soft spring will not react as you may expect...where as a stiffer spring will work ok. Food for thought
06-02-2010, 08:14 PM
Hmmmm i didnt realize that was Sunday. I am racing 1:1 Saturday so thought my weekend for rc was shot but maybe I will try to make it up there Sunday. Lets see what the wife says..lol
06-02-2010, 10:26 PM
Tech Apprentice
hi all
i was new in jrsx type r! may i knw wht type of lipo u all using for type r!
i was using trak power 4900mah 25c! i try to put in my friends lipo but it can in fit! is the ocra 5500 mah 50c!
may i knw that how tall is the lipo can be fit in to jrxs type r!
i knw that trak power is 23mm hight!
thanks.......
happy racing and bashing.
i was using trak power 4900mah 25c! i try to put in my friends lipo but it can in fit! is the ocra 5500 mah 50c!
may i knw that how tall is the lipo can be fit in to jrxs type r!
i knw that trak power is 23mm hight!
thanks.......
happy racing and bashing.
06-02-2010, 11:24 PM
Mike/Donny;
Can I get a little more info on your shock setup? Were you running drilled caps, and how much re-bound?
Cheers
Ed
Can I get a little more info on your shock setup? Were you running drilled caps, and how much re-bound?
Cheers
Ed
06-03-2010, 01:06 AM
i Am running standard caps with black bladders, full rebound all around.
06-03-2010, 04:44 AM
On the topic of diff height from a page or two ago. I did some laps on a low grip surface looking for something different and I think I may hage found it. I know believe it changes the rear end bit on and off power. A high diff has more rear end bit on power and less off power. The low diff had more off power and less on power grip. I think this has to do with the angle of the swing shafts. Anyway thats what I found.
06-03-2010, 05:39 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I am interested to know why you run full rebound? I have tested full to zero rebound and can't prove either is faster. I now just build with 50% rebound just in case I don't know what I am on about.
On the topic of diff height from a page or two ago. I did some laps on a low grip surface looking for something different and I think I may hage found it. I know believe it changes the rear end bit on and off power. A high diff has more rear end bit on power and less off power. The low diff had more off power and less on power grip. I think this has to do with the angle of the swing shafts. Anyway thats what I found.
On the topic of diff height from a page or two ago. I did some laps on a low grip surface looking for something different and I think I may hage found it. I know believe it changes the rear end bit on and off power. A high diff has more rear end bit on power and less off power. The low diff had more off power and less on power grip. I think this has to do with the angle of the swing shafts. Anyway thats what I found.
Dragonfire, that's some good info there as I have been looking for a little more traction coming out of corners. Any other handling differences that you've noticed running a high rear diff?
06-03-2010, 06:26 AM
I am interested to know why you run full rebound? I have tested full to zero rebound and can't prove either is faster. I now just build with 50% rebound just in case I don't know what I am on about.
On the topic of diff height from a page or two ago. I did some laps on a low grip surface looking for something different and I think I may hage found it. I know believe it changes the rear end bit on and off power. A high diff has more rear end bit on power and less off power. The low diff had more off power and less on power grip. I think this has to do with the angle of the swing shafts. Anyway thats what I found.
On the topic of diff height from a page or two ago. I did some laps on a low grip surface looking for something different and I think I may hage found it. I know believe it changes the rear end bit on and off power. A high diff has more rear end bit on power and less off power. The low diff had more off power and less on power grip. I think this has to do with the angle of the swing shafts. Anyway thats what I found.
06-03-2010, 06:51 AM
06-03-2010, 08:18 AM
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...e09a37831f5124
Lots of guys running thunderpower 50c as well i hear that fits good too.
ya i know Al its scary she is a tough one..lol
06-03-2010, 08:25 AM
I hear ya Don....... BTW, love that signature.......
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06-03-2010, 08:28 AM
....... You know what Don, that was some funny stuff!!...... Can't stop thinking about that!!........
...... Can't stop thinking about that!!........
06-03-2010, 10:12 AM
06-03-2010, 01:54 PM
Anyway what I do is completely fill my shocks, then compress 6mm (which is 1/2 of max length on mine) using calipers and then tighten cap. This gives identical rebound all round. I might go back to full and see what happens when I get good chance to test some more...
06-03-2010, 02:32 PM
Regarding the caps thing... I've been running a drilled top since I got the car. Having come from a Tamiya, where zero rebound, and nothing on top the bladder seem to be best, they've been built the same as a force of habit.
Plus I'm not so keen on letting the air above the bladder control the initial resistance on the shock... rather have some more consistent medium such as a foam/O-ring in there to control it... and there's then the option to tune it too.
I will say though, given the bigger hole pistons, running nothing above the bladder felt pretty, umm, wooley and horrible. For my shocks atm, I've settled on the bigger pistons (#55's), thicker oils (Losi 50-70), full rebound, and a combination of two different O-rings (Losi white+Tamiya blue) above the bladder to get the feel I like on the bench. Ran this combo last weekend on a very bumpy track, and felt good, taking the bumps well, but also carrying good corner speed.
I do wanna play around a bit more with it, but I hate building shocks track side... lol
Ed
Plus I'm not so keen on letting the air above the bladder control the initial resistance on the shock... rather have some more consistent medium such as a foam/O-ring in there to control it... and there's then the option to tune it too.
I will say though, given the bigger hole pistons, running nothing above the bladder felt pretty, umm, wooley and horrible. For my shocks atm, I've settled on the bigger pistons (#55's), thicker oils (Losi 50-70), full rebound, and a combination of two different O-rings (Losi white+Tamiya blue) above the bladder to get the feel I like on the bench. Ran this combo last weekend on a very bumpy track, and felt good, taking the bumps well, but also carrying good corner speed.
I do wanna play around a bit more with it, but I hate building shocks track side... lol
Ed