52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
08-31-2009, 10:21 AM
your car was hooked yesterday Rui, yes this car have lots of potential, as long as car is built right this car can handle any set up and run well, basic design of the car is good. (period)
08-31-2009, 10:24 AM
08-31-2009, 01:59 PM
I suggest you only do the d-ring mod if you are having problems with the diff slipping. Otherwise leave it be.
08-31-2009, 08:13 PM
I want to make the front camber link mod. Change the JR links to Ti. rod links. What size and brand of Ti. rods do I need to use.
08-31-2009, 08:56 PM
more detail is in my blog show how to do it.
http://forwardrc.com/2009/08/jr-link-to-ordinary-camber-rod-mod.html
09-01-2009, 01:46 AM
diff building
hi guys,
Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
09-01-2009, 07:18 AM
hi guys,
Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
Thanks
09-01-2009, 10:07 AM
hi guys,
Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
. I have them in stock and I'll be putting them on the site inventory very soon! I ship world wide global priority mail flat rate envelope is 14$ (for shipping check usps.com) and 12$ for the bearings, if you do a group purchase it may take the sting off the shipping.Oh and i'll have the RW spur gears in stock very soon, the titanium racing ceramic coated pinions came in yesterday :-D they are hot to death!
Last edited by YmeBP; 09-01-2009 at 10:22 AM.
09-01-2009, 12:17 PM
The great thing with tiny parts like bearings: They fit in a $0.50 stamped letter.
09-02-2009, 12:55 AM
Well you have the best of both worlds there don't you. I love the RW spurs although they can be a little loud! I used to run the TiR pinions years ago and they were great... was just hard to get em though. I run the RW's now and so far they have been bullet proof. They are steel however so more suited to 10.5 and lower turn motors.
09-02-2009, 12:07 PM
Does anybody have any pics of their electronics setups on their car? More specifically using a novak GTB esc? Just got my kit today. 
Thanks in advance!
[email protected]
Thanks in advance![email protected]
09-02-2009, 04:19 PM
The manual says to lube both sides of the copper ring. I think many people tend to forget that.
09-02-2009, 07:00 PM
use the one from rear to front and order a 1" lunsford set for the rear.
more detail is in my blog show how to do it.
http://forwardrc.com/2009/08/jr-link-to-ordinary-camber-rod-mod.html
more detail is in my blog show how to do it.
http://forwardrc.com/2009/08/jr-link-to-ordinary-camber-rod-mod.html
09-02-2009, 07:11 PM
that s what I had untill I made my own, problem was I had to pop out the ball cups everytime, instead of unscrewing it like any other joints on whole car.
IMO popping out a ball cup is so 90's~
IMO popping out a ball cup is so 90's~
Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 09-02-2009 at 07:50 PM.
09-02-2009, 08:55 PM
I use this with the regular rod ends with no problem. what I like most about the studs is that they are longer than the Losa6026. When you put them on, the are flush with the bottom edge of the c-hub. Only downfall is that you have to use the losi wrench to screw them on and off. Other than that, they work great.