Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Team Losi JRXS Type-R >

Team Losi JRXS Type-R

Like Tree17Likes

Team Losi JRXS Type-R

Old 08-31-2009, 10:21 AM
  #10381  
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,855
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
The funny thing is we all had different setups. You had all the flex, Brian and I didn't have much of the same.
your car was hooked yesterday Rui, yes this car have lots of potential, as long as car is built right this car can handle any set up and run well, basic design of the car is good. (period)
SweepRacingUSA is offline  
Old 08-31-2009, 10:24 AM
  #10382  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,369
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
your car was hooked yesterday Rui, yes this car have lots of potential, as long as car is built right this car can handle any set up and run well, basic design of the car is good. (period)
Thanks..It really came together in the main
nitrobeast is offline  
Old 08-31-2009, 01:59 PM
  #10383  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Spillertwo View Post
Quick question:
if you do the double D ring modification on the diff do you take out the bronze diff ring shim or do you let it in ?

Just ordered the extra D ring today so will try it next week probably :-)
Hope it makes the diff better.
+2 on leave it out.

I suggest you only do the d-ring mod if you are having problems with the diff slipping. Otherwise leave it be.
Dragonfire is offline  
Old 08-31-2009, 08:13 PM
  #10384  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
Mugen10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I want to make the front camber link mod. Change the JR links to Ti. rod links. What size and brand of Ti. rods do I need to use.
Mugen10 is offline  
Old 08-31-2009, 08:56 PM
  #10385  
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,855
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
I want to make the front camber link mod. Change the JR links to Ti. rod links. What size and brand of Ti. rods do I need to use.
use the one from rear to front and order a 1" lunsford set for the rear.

more detail is in my blog show how to do it.

http://forwardrc.com/2009/08/jr-link-to-ordinary-camber-rod-mod.html
SweepRacingUSA is offline  
Old 09-01-2009, 01:46 AM
  #10386  
Tech Rookie
 
phil goetty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
Default diff building

hi guys,

Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
phil goetty is offline  
Old 09-01-2009, 07:18 AM
  #10387  
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,855
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by phil goetty View Post
hi guys,

Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
wow, instead of get rid of a ring you guyse make it work extra hard.....hmmm I'll give it a shot next time.

Thanks
SweepRacingUSA is offline  
Old 09-01-2009, 10:07 AM
  #10388  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
 
YmeBP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,927
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by phil goetty View Post
hi guys,

Regarding diff building, we noticed with Lucas that the best way to keep a really good diff over a whole day of racing is to put a large amount of diff lube on the bronze shim (both side). Then you play a bit with your diff and settle it at the rigth pressure and you are done.
The only mod we do on the diff is the use of Xray trust bearing (cause we do have access to Mc Master here in France).
With this lube tips, you will have an equal power transmission to the wheel and you still can play with the slipper ajustment (which save a lot the diff from gridding).
And believe me the power Lucas is play with is outragous and the diff makes not comment...
You have access to McMaster thrust bearings now . I have them in stock and I'll be putting them on the site inventory very soon! I ship world wide global priority mail flat rate envelope is 14$ (for shipping check usps.com) and 12$ for the bearings, if you do a group purchase it may take the sting off the shipping.

Oh and i'll have the RW spur gears in stock very soon, the titanium racing ceramic coated pinions came in yesterday :-D they are hot to death!

Last edited by YmeBP; 09-01-2009 at 10:22 AM.
YmeBP is offline  
Old 09-01-2009, 12:17 PM
  #10389  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
adamge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Saskatoon,SK Canada
Posts: 1,654
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

The great thing with tiny parts like bearings: They fit in a $0.50 stamped letter.
adamge is offline  
Old 09-02-2009, 12:55 AM
  #10390  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
Oh and i'll have the RW spur gears in stock very soon, the titanium racing ceramic coated pinions came in yesterday :-D they are hot to death!
Well you have the best of both worlds there don't you. I love the RW spurs although they can be a little loud! I used to run the TiR pinions years ago and they were great... was just hard to get em though. I run the RW's now and so far they have been bullet proof. They are steel however so more suited to 10.5 and lower turn motors.
Dragonfire is offline  
Old 09-02-2009, 12:07 PM
  #10391  
Tech Master
iTrader: (60)
 
fastzach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 1,316
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Default

Does anybody have any pics of their electronics setups on their car? More specifically using a novak GTB esc? Just got my kit today. Thanks in advance!

[email protected]
fastzach is offline  
Old 09-02-2009, 04:19 PM
  #10392  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
jkirkwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,241
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

The manual says to lube both sides of the copper ring. I think many people tend to forget that.
jkirkwood is offline  
Old 09-02-2009, 07:00 PM
  #10393  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
MaxRain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 574
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
use the one from rear to front and order a 1" lunsford set for the rear.

more detail is in my blog show how to do it.

http://forwardrc.com/2009/08/jr-link-to-ordinary-camber-rod-mod.html
I decided to try LOSA1233.. they fit perfectly in the c-hub
MaxRain is offline  
Old 09-02-2009, 07:11 PM
  #10394  
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,855
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MaxRain View Post
I decided to try LOSA1233.. they fit perfectly in the c-hub
that s what I had untill I made my own, problem was I had to pop out the ball cups everytime, instead of unscrewing it like any other joints on whole car.

IMO popping out a ball cup is so 90's~

Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 09-02-2009 at 07:50 PM.
SweepRacingUSA is offline  
Old 09-02-2009, 08:55 PM
  #10395  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
MaxRain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 574
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
that s what I had untill I made my own, problem was I had to pop out the ball cups everytime, instead of unscrewing it like any other joints on whole car.

IMO popping out a ball cup is so 90's~
I use this with the regular rod ends with no problem. what I like most about the studs is that they are longer than the Losa6026. When you put them on, the are flush with the bottom edge of the c-hub. Only downfall is that you have to use the losi wrench to screw them on and off. Other than that, they work great.
MaxRain is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.