52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
07-14-2009, 04:46 PM
#9841
Lemme rephrase...
not after "few weeks".... I had these hexes for about "a year" I do have all three thickness and sometime thinnest one scratch bubs by that screw from beggining. and other thicknesses start having "digging" problems
thanks for the input but like It showed on the title the problem is for those "Aluminium" one
I didnt tried stock plastic one yet.
it may spin good on the hex but if you disassemble a hub carrier and tighten a wheel with a nut as usual, you might have one or two "crushed" feeling one that bind on spin.
thats how I test my Ballbearings since I found digged alloy hex on my car.
I dont think I crushed those nuts too far, I tried with brand new BB and result are same for the "digged" hex.
try spin a wheel ike I said above, you might find surprise for yourself.\
anyway. any fix or solution for this.? or any one had same problem like mine?
not after "few weeks".... I had these hexes for about "a year" I do have all three thickness and sometime thinnest one scratch bubs by that screw from beggining. and other thicknesses start having "digging" problems
thanks for the input but like It showed on the title the problem is for those "Aluminium" one
I didnt tried stock plastic one yet.
it may spin good on the hex but if you disassemble a hub carrier and tighten a wheel with a nut as usual, you might have one or two "crushed" feeling one that bind on spin.
thats how I test my Ballbearings since I found digged alloy hex on my car.
I dont think I crushed those nuts too far, I tried with brand new BB and result are same for the "digged" hex.
try spin a wheel ike I said above, you might find surprise for yourself.\
anyway. any fix or solution for this.? or any one had same problem like mine?
07-14-2009, 06:02 PM
#9843
I skimmed right over the title. Sorry about that. I personally have not had an issue with my hexes, but I don't mash them down when I tighten them on the axle either. Not sure how you are gouging out the slot in the hex where the pin goes.
07-14-2009, 11:00 PM
#9845
quick question... do the trinity 3800 packs fit the steel lipo tray and clear the belt pulleys?
07-15-2009, 06:43 AM
#9847
Hows this for a clue. Its just a prototype so expect the production version to look a bit better.
No more sliping spools! It uses the the Losi clip in outdrives on both side so changing will be quick and easy, it will save some rotating weight and the pully runs true unlike the kit setup. I have to test it now to be sure it is unbreakable.
No more sliping spools! It uses the the Losi clip in outdrives on both side so changing will be quick and easy, it will save some rotating weight and the pully runs true unlike the kit setup. I have to test it now to be sure it is unbreakable.
Last edited by Pablo Diablo; 07-15-2009 at 06:27 PM.
07-15-2009, 06:49 AM
#9848
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). Very easy to tighten up and just as easy to loosen. Actually want to buy a few more packs because they work great. Wish I would of had these over the last few years and it would of saved me alot of grief!!!!!!!!!!
07-15-2009, 06:52 AM
#9849
Hows this for a clue. Its just a prototype so expect the production version to look a bit better.
No more sliping spolls! It uses the the Losi clip in outdrives on both side so changing will be quick and easy, it will save some rotating weight and the pully runs true unlike the kit setup. I have to test it now to be shure it is unbreakable.
No more sliping spolls! It uses the the Losi clip in outdrives on both side so changing will be quick and easy, it will save some rotating weight and the pully runs true unlike the kit setup. I have to test it now to be shure it is unbreakable.
Edit: Lay shaft has been ordered. Can wait to see the spool!
Last edited by liljohn1064; 07-15-2009 at 07:20 AM.
07-15-2009, 07:19 AM
#9851
Yeah GOAT and Schreff told me about those type of wheel nuts as well. I bought a pack from GOAT that TOP has and never ever a loose wheel again (except behind the wheel ). Very easy to tighten up and just as easy to loosen. Actually want to buy a few more packs because they work great. Wish I would of had these over the last few years and it would of saved me alot of grief!!!!!!!!!!
). Very easy to tighten up and just as easy to loosen. Actually want to buy a few more packs because they work great. Wish I would of had these over the last few years and it would of saved me alot of grief!!!!!!!!!!
This will be my first real attemp at touring car. I've run a couple of races, but haven't really taken our 13.5 class seriously. I'm hoping our track does a 17.5 Novice/Sportsmans class.
07-15-2009, 07:51 AM
#9853
Hows this for a clue. Its just a prototype so expect the production version to look a bit better.
No more sliping spolls! It uses the the Losi clip in outdrives on both side so changing will be quick and easy, it will save some rotating weight and the pully runs true unlike the kit setup. I have to test it now to be shure it is unbreakable.
No more sliping spolls! It uses the the Losi clip in outdrives on both side so changing will be quick and easy, it will save some rotating weight and the pully runs true unlike the kit setup. I have to test it now to be shure it is unbreakable.
07-15-2009, 08:03 AM
#9854
07-15-2009, 08:09 AM
#9855
Question for you gentlemen.
I've been running a 21.5 touring class this summer because all the 17.5 guys have taken the summer off. The tires we use are the Vintage spec tires but we allow any body as long as it's not a race specific touing body. The goal of the class is to have it look realistic and be slow enough for new guys.
I've been running a one-way and am faster with it over the diff by .3 sec per lap. It's fun to drive but with the one-way there is one hairpin corner I really have to be careful on which is located at the end of the strait. I usually us my 2wd off-road skills and just drift the car into the first corner. I'm estimating a loose of time of about .5-.1 sec loss by not being able to break hard into that corner. Keep in mind that I'm still quite a bit faster with the one-way over the diff.
Has anyone sucessfully got the spool to work with lowered power cars? I was going to try try it next time out but was just wondering if anyone else has had any experience with it.
I've been running a 21.5 touring class this summer because all the 17.5 guys have taken the summer off. The tires we use are the Vintage spec tires but we allow any body as long as it's not a race specific touing body. The goal of the class is to have it look realistic and be slow enough for new guys.
I've been running a one-way and am faster with it over the diff by .3 sec per lap. It's fun to drive but with the one-way there is one hairpin corner I really have to be careful on which is located at the end of the strait. I usually us my 2wd off-road skills and just drift the car into the first corner. I'm estimating a loose of time of about .5-.1 sec loss by not being able to break hard into that corner. Keep in mind that I'm still quite a bit faster with the one-way over the diff.
Has anyone sucessfully got the spool to work with lowered power cars? I was going to try try it next time out but was just wondering if anyone else has had any experience with it.