Team Losi JRXS Type-R
#9511
Are you using the stock plastic hexes? If so you could have one that is mushroomed or just not right allowing it to rub the hub/spindle. I don't use the plastic ones anymore on my cars.
#9515
Tech Rookie
Hello, i've got a question about a issue i've got with my new jrx-s type r. This is my first Losi on road TC, i'm a Xray guy that wanted to try something new. My problem is that when i punch the throttle the car wants to pull hard to the left. I've never seen this before in any other TC that i've had and i've had a "FEW". If i accel. slow then it seems to be ok but as soon as i punch it it just pulls to the left until i back off the throttle.
It's not a trim/tracking or elec. glitch issue. I'm running a ball diff. in the rear and a spool in the front (what do you all think of the Losi spool set up?) and i'm running rubber tires. Any help on what i might be doing wrong would be greatly appreciated.
It's not a trim/tracking or elec. glitch issue. I'm running a ball diff. in the rear and a spool in the front (what do you all think of the Losi spool set up?) and i'm running rubber tires. Any help on what i might be doing wrong would be greatly appreciated.
#9516
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Losi use a weird system with the diffs which is meant to slip under load. The problem is that it tends to slip on one side only which results in the chassis tracking the wrong way when accelarating or braking. Make sure your front spool is tight and that you rear diff is not slipping easily. Other than that you may just have regular tweak in which case you use the same proceedure as you did with the xray.
#9517
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Losi use a weird system with the diffs which is meant to slip under load. The problem is that it tends to slip on one side only which results in the chassis tracking the wrong way when accelarating or braking. Make sure your front spool is tight and that you rear diff is not slipping easily. Other than that you may just have regular tweak in which case you use the same proceedure as you did with the xray.
#9518
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
If you are having a problem with the diffs slipping we have been cutting a piece out of the aluminum diff half and putting on a D ring. Mark the aluminum part that stick up with where you need to cut off for the D ring to fit pretty tightly. Make sure you take everything off so the ring rides flat or you will have a major problem. But it works fine and the plastic diff out drive will fit in just fine. We have been doing it for a little bit now seems to allow you to run the diff a little looser but still be tight.
#9519
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
If you are having a problem with the diffs slipping we have been cutting a piece out of the aluminum diff half and putting on a D ring. Mark the aluminum part that stick up with where you need to cut off for the D ring to fit pretty tightly. Make sure you take everything off so the ring rides flat or you will have a major problem. But it works fine and the plastic diff out drive will fit in just fine. We have been doing it for a little bit now seems to allow you to run the diff a little looser but still be tight.
#9520
Tech Rookie
Thanks for the input! One thing i failed to mention is after not having any luck even after checking tweak i looked at the diffs. I tightened the front spool and that made no diff.. Then i tightened down the rear, it got better but a bit of pull was still present. I'll try locking down the diff rings next.
#9521
If you are having a problem with the diffs slipping we have been cutting a piece out of the aluminum diff half and putting on a D ring. Mark the aluminum part that stick up with where you need to cut off for the D ring to fit pretty tightly. Make sure you take everything off so the ring rides flat or you will have a major problem. But it works fine and the plastic diff out drive will fit in just fine. We have been doing it for a little bit now seems to allow you to run the diff a little looser but still be tight.
#9523
lipo fit question
before buying a lipo for my car i read thru this thread and had convinced myself that a smc 40c 5200 could fit.
it looks like the rear bulkheads must be relieved a little, but the real question is how anyone fit the front regarding wires that exit upwards from the top left corner of the pack. i don't see how to do this without remove a lot of material in the top plate.
or has anyone shimmed the top plate and raised it to gain clearance?
it looks like the rear bulkheads must be relieved a little, but the real question is how anyone fit the front regarding wires that exit upwards from the top left corner of the pack. i don't see how to do this without remove a lot of material in the top plate.
or has anyone shimmed the top plate and raised it to gain clearance?
#9524
If you are having a problem with the diffs slipping we have been cutting a piece out of the aluminum diff half and putting on a D ring. Mark the aluminum part that stick up with where you need to cut off for the D ring to fit pretty tightly. Make sure you take everything off so the ring rides flat or you will have a major problem. But it works fine and the plastic diff out drive will fit in just fine. We have been doing it for a little bit now seems to allow you to run the diff a little looser but still be tight.
#9525
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Yes we are doing both diffs. I had a problem with my spool at the Carpet Nats and Larry told me to run the d-ring on both sides. I did my spool with a dremel and had no problems since. I also am doing my regular diffs now, but had them machined as I wanted them to be a little more accurate.
I could not get a 5200 40C SMC pack to fit in my car. The new 4700 pack should work, but you may have to grind down the humps on the bottom. I have not got my pack to try yet.
I could not get a 5200 40C SMC pack to fit in my car. The new 4700 pack should work, but you may have to grind down the humps on the bottom. I have not got my pack to try yet.