Team Losi JRXS Type-R
#8941
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
I only have 1 problem with my type R and that is the diff.
Whenever i put it together it just doesn't feel smooth.
I've tried different diff balls, different lubricant,...
But still it feels like it has sand in it although it is as clean as can be.
It is always like this and has been like this from the beginning.
This is my 5th electric car and i never had a problem like this.
Does everybody have this problem with the Type R diffs ?
Whenever i put it together it just doesn't feel smooth.
I've tried different diff balls, different lubricant,...
But still it feels like it has sand in it although it is as clean as can be.
It is always like this and has been like this from the beginning.
This is my 5th electric car and i never had a problem like this.
Does everybody have this problem with the Type R diffs ?
#8942
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I only have 1 problem with my type R and that is the diff.
Whenever i put it together it just doesn't feel smooth.
I've tried different diff balls, different lubricant,...
But still it feels like it has sand in it although it is as clean as can be.
It is always like this and has been like this from the beginning.
This is my 5th electric car and i never had a problem like this.
Does everybody have this problem with the Type R diffs ?
Whenever i put it together it just doesn't feel smooth.
I've tried different diff balls, different lubricant,...
But still it feels like it has sand in it although it is as clean as can be.
It is always like this and has been like this from the beginning.
This is my 5th electric car and i never had a problem like this.
Does everybody have this problem with the Type R diffs ?
I have seen this problem in my car and 9 out of 10 it's an issue with the thrust bearing. Make sure all the balls are still in the housing and you are using a "grease" not an oil.
Good Luck,
Casey
#8944
#8946
Anybody know how did Losi do at the Snowbirds?
#8948
Tech Elite
iTrader: (50)
Setup
Setup questions abound after a recent trip to the Omaha Hobbyplex and then back to my home track @ Fastlane in Kansas City.
My local club (low to medium bite) setup is based on Mike Haynes IIC setup and works well as a starting point. The rear end is a little loose and I have 2* rear camber and the middle inner camber link (pos.5) now. I wondered if using 2* rear camber and the lower middle inner camber link (pos.8) will help stick the car.
I tried using the super soft setup that I was using in Omaha at our track but it was dumpy in the front with 15lb/37.5wt springs/oil and lazy in the rear 12.5 lb/30 wt. They have no traction @ the Hobbyplex and I tried the 17lb front and 17lb rear setup there and it was a drift car.
Why is it needed to have such a stiff spring on the rear of the Type R compared to every other car I have owned? (Cyclone, FK05, RDX, Pro 4)
I guess my theory is that too soft goes past the ideal traction point(thus loosing grip) and has to recover.
Also what do you guys do when you want more front side to side reactivity without loosing grip in the corners. I've tried thinner shock oil and a thicker front sway bar.
My local club (low to medium bite) setup is based on Mike Haynes IIC setup and works well as a starting point. The rear end is a little loose and I have 2* rear camber and the middle inner camber link (pos.5) now. I wondered if using 2* rear camber and the lower middle inner camber link (pos.8) will help stick the car.
I tried using the super soft setup that I was using in Omaha at our track but it was dumpy in the front with 15lb/37.5wt springs/oil and lazy in the rear 12.5 lb/30 wt. They have no traction @ the Hobbyplex and I tried the 17lb front and 17lb rear setup there and it was a drift car.
Why is it needed to have such a stiff spring on the rear of the Type R compared to every other car I have owned? (Cyclone, FK05, RDX, Pro 4)
I guess my theory is that too soft goes past the ideal traction point(thus loosing grip) and has to recover.
Also what do you guys do when you want more front side to side reactivity without loosing grip in the corners. I've tried thinner shock oil and a thicker front sway bar.
#8949
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
Setup questions abound after a recent trip to the Omaha Hobbyplex and then back to my home track @ Fastlane in Kansas City.
My local club (low to medium bite) setup is based on Mike Haynes IIC setup and works well as a starting point. The rear end is a little loose and I have 2* rear camber and the middle inner camber link (pos.5) now. I wondered if using 2* rear camber and the lower middle inner camber link (pos.8) will help stick the car.
I tried using the super soft setup that I was using in Omaha at our track but it was dumpy in the front with 15lb/37.5wt springs/oil and lazy in the rear 12.5 lb/30 wt. They have no traction @ the Hobbyplex and I tried the 17lb front and 17lb rear setup there and it was a drift car.
Why is it needed to have such a stiff spring on the rear of the Type R compared to every other car I have owned? (Cyclone, FK05, RDX, Pro 4)
I guess my theory is that too soft goes past the ideal traction point(thus loosing grip) and has to recover.
Also what do you guys do when you want more front side to side reactivity without loosing grip in the corners. I've tried thinner shock oil and a thicker front sway bar.
My local club (low to medium bite) setup is based on Mike Haynes IIC setup and works well as a starting point. The rear end is a little loose and I have 2* rear camber and the middle inner camber link (pos.5) now. I wondered if using 2* rear camber and the lower middle inner camber link (pos.8) will help stick the car.
I tried using the super soft setup that I was using in Omaha at our track but it was dumpy in the front with 15lb/37.5wt springs/oil and lazy in the rear 12.5 lb/30 wt. They have no traction @ the Hobbyplex and I tried the 17lb front and 17lb rear setup there and it was a drift car.
Why is it needed to have such a stiff spring on the rear of the Type R compared to every other car I have owned? (Cyclone, FK05, RDX, Pro 4)
I guess my theory is that too soft goes past the ideal traction point(thus loosing grip) and has to recover.
Also what do you guys do when you want more front side to side reactivity without loosing grip in the corners. I've tried thinner shock oil and a thicker front sway bar.
#8950
Tech Elite
iTrader: (50)
#8951
Tech Elite
iTrader: (50)
I miss racing w/ you up there. I did gravitate close to Jeff and Andy's setup but I did it on my own. Should have just thrown it on the car from the start and gone from there.
I agree with you about the carpet, I asked about the carpet on a thread here on RC tech. After a year they are still getting "fuzz". Heck my car had a beard on the front bumper and I had to remove the layshaft for cleaning. The rear axles were covered after every round, seams as though they got a bad batch. I would be calling CRC out to take a look unless the stuff was given to them. We run less cars at Fastlane and have way more grip after a Sunday with 1/12th and WGT cars.
#8952
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Setup questions abound after a recent trip to the Omaha Hobbyplex and then back to my home track @ Fastlane in Kansas City.
Why is it needed to have such a stiff spring on the rear of the Type R compared to every other car I have owned? (Cyclone, FK05, RDX, Pro 4)
I guess my theory is that too soft goes past the ideal traction point(thus loosing grip) and has to recover.
Also what do you guys do when you want more front side to side reactivity without loosing grip in the corners. I've tried thinner shock oil and a thicker front sway bar.
Why is it needed to have such a stiff spring on the rear of the Type R compared to every other car I have owned? (Cyclone, FK05, RDX, Pro 4)
I guess my theory is that too soft goes past the ideal traction point(thus loosing grip) and has to recover.
Also what do you guys do when you want more front side to side reactivity without loosing grip in the corners. I've tried thinner shock oil and a thicker front sway bar.
Try shortening your front link. It may or may not decrease you mid corner bite on foam but it will improve response considerably and on a tight track like most carpet tracks are you should be a bit quicker too.
#8953
Tech Elite
iTrader: (50)
While I have limited experience with foam and carpet usually less roll is better. Leaning over (softer) doesn't seem to generate grip and makes the car fell very lazy.
Try shortening your front link. It may or may not decrease you mid corner bite on foam but it will improve response considerably and on a tight track like most carpet tracks are you should be a bit quicker too.
Try shortening your front link. It may or may not decrease you mid corner bite on foam but it will improve response considerably and on a tight track like most carpet tracks are you should be a bit quicker too.
I run Mike Haynes IIC rubber tire setup and Jaco greens. I currently have the front inner link @ short upper location and 1mm spacer under outside link on hub. It increases initial steering response.
I am suffering from severe on power push and I'm down to 2* rear toe but still not helping enough. Thought about reversing the .5* rear hub to take out more is that possible?
#8954
you could try my novak race setup
#8955
front
45 wt oil 56 piston losi oil
17.5 spring
0 toe
5.5 ride height
no kick or anti
4 deg caster
1mm over ride height
0 deg ft pivot
low+.030(gold washer) roll center
mid arm
shock position 2
steering rack 2
spindle 1
camber link 1
reg ballstud on camber link
one way
.225 ft width
rear
30wt losi oil
56 piston
12.5 spring
3 deg toe(1 on hub, 1 deg pivot)
5.5 ride height,
droop 2mm over
-2 deg camber
low roll +0.030
low diff
.195 width
5 a camber +0.030 under ballstud
shock 1 outside
speed 6
45 wt oil 56 piston losi oil
17.5 spring
0 toe
5.5 ride height
no kick or anti
4 deg caster
1mm over ride height
0 deg ft pivot
low+.030(gold washer) roll center
mid arm
shock position 2
steering rack 2
spindle 1
camber link 1
reg ballstud on camber link
one way
.225 ft width
rear
30wt losi oil
56 piston
12.5 spring
3 deg toe(1 on hub, 1 deg pivot)
5.5 ride height,
droop 2mm over
-2 deg camber
low roll +0.030
low diff
.195 width
5 a camber +0.030 under ballstud
shock 1 outside
speed 6