Ok thats propably what he has done. I dont own a losi so im not sure:p

But you wish you did:sneaky:

I have used the IP's and what has been said it right on. Sand those humps down a bit and use the standard plastic tray. Just check with any event organizers that its ok to remove the humps! The absolute best solution is to use Thunder Power Lipo's. Not only are they flat, they realyy do outperform any others. The IP's are good value though.

Not yet anyway.:lol::sneaky:

Rhys

Got my new/used JRXSR yesterday. This really is a cool chassis. Wrenching doesn't look difficult. I can definitely see why the Flying Fox layshaft has become an almost must have. My 4000mah Zippy hardcase batts rub on the pulley. Gotta download a manual, tear it apart and rebuild but really looking forward to it. Can't believe I waited so long but then again....the old xxx-s has never let me down.

I had mates who used to race the xxx-s chassis and they were fast, but the JRX-S smashes it....

For all those with hump IP cells... Try running the normal battery tray and file it out a bit so the lipo fits in sweet. This way you can leave the humps (and be legal) and also fit your pack. Take note to go slow as you need to increase both the width and length to fit the packs. All in all go get some thunder powers. You won't belive the difference and they fit straight in and they are lighter than most high capacity packs!

Will the Losi carbon fiber slotted tray do just as well ? Thats what I was thinking of buying or I have a friend who can make one out of fiberglass with squared holes similar to the holes in the Schumacher MI4LP chassis for hump lipos. Are there any other suggestions for parts to change or upgrade while I've got it apart? Fox layshaft and tray are first. Are the gray and white belts a good idea ? Any particular suggestions would help. Just want to do what makes it stronger or more reliable. Planning on running ball diff and spool most often so I'll be ordering the Fox spool also.

I've been running stock belts and have never broken one, i've run them with missing teeth and haven't had issues w/ the stock belts.

Only other MUST have is the mcmaster carr thrust bearing for your diff, i have them in stock but you can get them directly from mcmaster if you are here in the states. These things are damn near indestructible. Been running the same one in my dirty ass diff for the last 2 years :).

Spools are out of stock, Pablo Diablo is working hard on getting the stronger cups right.

The gray and white belts are only for the mid-motor car, just fyi, they won't fit the Type-R. I find that a pile of 0.030 shims is quite handy to have around for making dive/squat changes (which the car is pleasantly sensitive to) and camber link ball stud height changes as well. :nod: Having the full assortment of aluminum hex drives is also handy (3 widths).

Greg, can you help explain the affect of the wider hubs f/r? Thanks in advance.

I have the carbon tray as well but it allows the battery to move around too much. If you can get a fibreglass tray made up with holes just big enough for the bumps then that would be great but its easier to just hack into a plastic tray.

Kit belts a gun you won't need to change them for a very long time if you race spec.

It will increase response at that end of the car but that means you will see less grip. Throwing wider hex's onto the front end is a easy way to reduce front end bit if the rear is a little loose. If you are running with good grip you can try wider hex's all round. I personally always run std hex's and have never really found conditions that suit wider hex's but here in oz grip is generally very low compared to the rest of the world.

I just got a used JRX-S type R to try something different. Up til now I have ran exclusively the xxx-s.

Got a FF layshaft in it yesterday. Nice piece. Waiting on the spool.

The person I bought the R from was a flex freak and had hacked up the bulkheads and upper deck a lot. I'll admit, the car drives nice but he was running medium sway bars which seems to contradict a lot of flex?

I usually ran no bars in the xxx-s and was pretty darn fast with it. Only complaints I had was the high polar moment and the CG seemed a little high. I would start traction rolling before anyone else.

The JRX-s R seems to really have solved these issues. Once I get used to it, I know its gonna be worth a few tenths.

However, now that I want to get rid of the flex I need another top deck. Part # LOSA4304 . Horizon is listing it as discontinued according to the LHS. Please tell me it isn't so! I ordered one from Ampdraw last week but it still shows as not shipped. I'm guessing they didn't really have one.

Did I buy a Type R just in time for parts to start drying up?

Anyone have a top deck in stock?

Nope,go to www.losipartshouse.com have most everything you need and fast shipping.

They don't have top decks.

I wanted to experiment with cutting a topdeck and I have enough parts to build a second car minus a topdeck and screw kit, but i have yet to find anyone that has one. Other than the topdeck you shouldn't have problems getting parts, maybee someone will reproduce the topdeck.:nod:

Really interesting.. I didn't think they discontinued the car nor the parts. Maybe they need to do another production run? I don't know. Give Losi a call in the morning and see what they say, let us know!

Yeah, what he said! :lol: When I asked Gil Losi Jr. that same question, he simply said "whichever end of the car is narrower will have more bite." While that's over simplified, it really does work 100% of the time. The wider the track width, the less weight transfer from the inside to the outside tires. The narrower the track width, the more weight transfer from the inside to the outside tires. If you're slightly confused about how to use our suggestions, join the club. Suspension tuning is a black art to some extent. Even the pros don't always know which change to make first, second or last. But the best racers at the big events are the ones who figured it out first, so get out there and change stuff! :nod: (high five!)

Top decks are a little hard to find, the word I got was they were discontinued because they weren't really selling many. They are still producing all the other parts for the car.

Between Flying Fox and I we pledged to keep the car going and fill in the gaps whenever the bean counters step in and make our lives harder because the car is still competitive and consistenly at the top of the time sheets so no reason to mothball it yet.

If you hunt around on Ebay you can pick up a top deck, also in the for sale forum here they have a couple for sale. I'd pick up one or two just for the parts. The other option is to get one cut, there are a bunch of companies that would gladly cut one for you. I think i'll try to get a 3d scan of one and post the Solidworks, Autocad, and Pro-e drawing of it so we can get it cut on our own.

Interesting I just had a quick look around and couldn't find any upper decks either... Lucky I have a few spares...

I know Mr FlyingFoxRC was looking into perhaps making one. Maybe this would be a good idea to follow up on that. We could go the route of something like the FK-05 adjustable upper deck that would suit everyone right out of the box.

BMI had produced a handful of chassis kits that included the top deck and shock towers, although I doubt Jason would bother producing them in larger batches. Still, it might be worth emailing him to show support for making the chassis kits.:confused:

There is a far better solution if we are going chassis kits. It was looked at by a few of us a while back that we could move the motor and battery foward and move the position of the steering servo. The idea of this is to generate a 50/50 weight balance with a brushless/lipo setup BEFORE you add any weight to the chassis. This would involve the changing of many part including belts, rear bulkheads, etc... Mr FlyingFoxRC did some work in this area a while ago and I'm not sure how far it got, but if there is intrest it may be worth him finishing this. If anyone does go down the road of a chassis kit, then this should be their goal.

There is a reason why they moved from the motor being forward and moved it to the back. Why would we go back to what did not work in the past?

To answer that question, the move to Lipo.

I'm gonna be running this car as well guys. I ran one a couple years ago a handful of times and had great success with it. I am gonna try to get two cars going so I can do more testing with it. Do any of you have any tips or ideas or things you guys do to the cars different than the way it comes out of the box? Any help would be very appreciated and once I get the cars out there i'd gladly help in the setup department. Greg I know I mentioned this to you at Horsham and you were talking about something with the layshaft and the bearings? I don't remember exactly what it was though can you elaborate more?
Thanks all,
Donny

I talked w/ Scooby about BMI a year ago. I think he'd do it if we bought enough, I'm looking into investment and financing to do a couple other things this summer and a chassis topdeck combo is one of them.

I really liked the BMI chassis the carbon was far stiffer than stock carbon and had a gloss look to it.

The BMI kit is 100 percent not necessary for anything Rubber.

It will probably hurt your performance in rubber actually.

Also the Bmi did not have a gloss finish it was a matte finish.

But what do I know I havent run this car in a year and so much has changed. lol

Donny your layshafts are on the way.

My changes based on running w/ Schreff, Fairtrace, Sharpe, and a bunch of other fast Type-R guys, you prolly have most of these on your car already but i'll post up for the other newer Type-R guys.

1) move your ball stud on the steering link to the inner hole for more ackerman. Increases turn in.
2) place #4 washers underneath the ball stud in the steering knuckle this increases high speed steering (if i remember correctly may be wrong on the why, but it helps a ton!)
3) Change to camber links instead of jr links for rubber on asphalt. It increases camber gain.
4) Put a 3 or 4mm shim under the ball stud in the rear hub carrier for more camber gain. (i use the kyosho blue shims i have these for salebut they aren't on the site yet)
5) use a longer neck ball stud in the rear hub carrier for more camber gain, careful w/ the type of wheels you have, Sweeps and Prisms are a little larger than RP and some others you can fit bigger shims. Be mindful that your ball stud doesn't rub on your rim :) especially in 10.5 or better you WILL cut your rim.
5a) moving the ball stud to the outer hole gives you more rear traction, inner hole gives you more steering.
6) Check the tweak in your chassis after every 2 or three runs and Definitely before the mains (BMI chassis never tweaked btw). Loosen top deck screws and have someone help you push down on the shock towers on a flat surface and re tighten the screws.
7) maintain your diffs, this car is SUPER sensitive to diff action. You will lose all rear traction if that bearing in your diff is in bad shape or your thrust bearing is in bad shape. I use the mcmaster thrust and a ceramic center diff bearing. Paul Lemieux, Scooby, Fairtrace, Schreffler, Sharpe, DeWee all yelled at me about the crappiness of my diff :sweat::nod: and how badly it was affecting the handling of my car.

Changes:
Diff height makes a big difference, some like high some like low, but it makes a difference try it out.
Roll center makes a big difference, i run High front low rear because i like a car that pushes, but if you can handle a car that turns in hard go low and high.
Car changes directions quickly but it doesn't xfer weight to the wheels as quickly because of the center battery. Sweepers need to be driven hard and your car needs to be sprung softly on a sweeping track.
Shock mounting holes are the same as any other touring car move in for more traction out for less
Increase droop in 1/2 mm increments, you don't need much as i've found out the hard way.

It may sound like allot but honestly this is one of the easier cars i've owned to setup once you get used to it. For the most part the setup stays the same for various tracks and styles of racing, w/ minor changes to springs diff height and droop.

Hmm maybe Scooby shined his up :sneaky: it looked shiny to me ... or maybe it was just because i didn't have on is why it looked shiny :).

As far as I know Scooby did not have one. But I could be wrong.

OMG Donny Lia in da house!!!

you might need to shave some meterial outta cneter pullies to fits those SMC. or get a flying fox shaft YmeBP(Tory) sell

http://www.skyrocketbatteries.com/pr...products_id=81

and mount a set of Sweep tires and go show them why your our national champion!:tire::tire:


I dont think donny was looking for a set up help. he's a ROAR Champ.

and I know one more Super star is "coming back" to the Losi camp with Sweep tires on his R machine.

welcome back H_ _ _ _ s!


da john wee~

He had something that wasn't stock losi if it wasn't BMI i don't know what it was. It looked like Goetter's, and it was definitely thicker than mine.

Oh I know, I've seen him drive :eek::tire::nod:. That post was more for the other Type-R newcomers we have in the thread. His post just fired off the right braincell for me.

The bmi chassis was 2.5mm quasi satin finish carbon fiber

The stock chassis is glossy 2.75 non quasi carbon fiber.

I have no idea what scooby dremeled himself lol.

O I C, good information for new comers for sure

da john wee~

Me either ;) but it was pretty fast.

So you would suggest a stiffer (thicker) chassis for rubber vs a thinner one? I always thought you wanted thinner chassis (more flex) for rubber tires.

Sure is nice to see a few come back to this R!

Personally I don't think anyone has come up with a design like it yet.

Welcome back all!

Larry... When are you coming back?

Also spoke with Jason @ BMI.. He no longer has the CAD files for the Losi chassis... Would have to start from scratch again = very expensive.

Lol that means he doesnt want to make them, he didnt want to make the ones he made for us the first time.

I won't ever run another Type R. Losi seems to be dropping parts support for the car from what I hear, and nothing has been developed for it in over 3 years by Losi. I'll stick with my TOP car that has great support and my suggestions are taken and brought to fruition by a company that cares about Onroad.

Tory, Quasi laid carbon fiber is much stiffer and as better return than standard carbon fiber. a 2.5 quasi component grade carbon similar to what BMI uses is probably 2x stiffer than 2.75 standard carbon fiber.

Either way the BMI chassis was not even needed on Foams and def not needed on Asphalt.

We mainly ran the BMI chassis because it looked cooler and was slightly stiffer when we ran Foams.

Out of the box the Type r is the stiffest car on the market that is not Foam specific.

Gotchya, good to know about the carbon.

Yup totally understand the wanting to support on-road thing. Thats why I have so much Tamiya stuff.... But the R is such a darn good car.

Dropping parts support for it? As in just the top deck mentioned here or inside sources?

thanks
 

thanks for the shout john and thanks for the tips guys i really look forward to running the car again and trying something different!

Ran my R in VTA for the first time.
WOW. Very wide sweet spot in the tuning of this thing. The low polar moment of inertia was very evident. Even with a little push it rotates well on corner entry.

And when I cranked in a lot of steering I could "catch" it if I over rotated into the apex. I like an aggressive tune and it worked well like that.

WOW. I should have got one years ago.

I'm really hoping Horizon continues parts support.

I ordered a spare chassis from Stormer late last year and to my surprise it was 3.2mm thick! Was a genuine Losi part with the standard 2.7mm part number, but it was 3.2mm. Maybe Losi did a small run of carpet chassis?? This thing was really stiff. And as said before, the Type R is stiff anyway.

Also good to see so many people back on the Type R thread. It was going quiet for a while but now its like the good oll days:p