I think i figured it out, to late to test tho. I had the 42 pulley in the back and the 41 in the front. Hope it works tomorrow. Thanks for the help

Don't know if it's common practice for Type R owners here but does anyone shave/grind/sand/scrape the inside of the bearing recesses in the bearing eccentric in order to reduce drag/friction?
Seems when you assemble the diff tube inside the bearing eccentric and install the O-ring on the diff tube, there is no side play which in turn causes drag.
I sanded the eccentric(s) on my first Type R and when I got my second "R" later, I had to do the same thing. I fixed my eccentrics by using a 3/4" Dremel sanding disc, which fits perfectly, to sand the inside shoulder of the eccentric.

Is this a common (minor) problem?


BTW, I love this car! People can't believe i'm using only 1 degree rear toe-in and still be hooked-up in "timing boost" 17.5. Gives me excellent straightline speed too.

Question about rear toe
 

Hey all,

I've started racing my new R in our winter series here in Calgary and I absolutely LOVE it! We have a very bumpy track and I can't believe how smooth and composed the car is compared to just about everything else out there. I think there are some surprised folks at our track to see this car do so well (2 third places in a row out of ~16-18 cars :D).

Greg's comment a few posts ago about rear toe reminded me of a question I had been meaning to ask...is there any difference between toe at the hinge-pin versus toe at the hub? Would I get the same results by running 1 degree hubs with a 1 degree rear block as I would running 0 degree hubs with the 2 degree rear block?

Thanks in advance for any insight you could provide!

Cheers,
Mike

P.S. Did I say I LOVE this thing!

keep in mind the car had 1 degree built in it already.les toe= more steering.
if you want to get thru the bumps better try some kickup under the front hinge pic brace.i have never try to run anything but the stock hubs on back.

My love affair with Losi Type R is over.

If some one is interested everything is up for sale.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...are-parts.html

Car is almost new, prices are not set in stone, feel free to make a reasonable offer.

Thanks, it was a lot of fun!

Rear toe at the hubs is just rear toe. However, rear toe at the hingepins will throw more weight forward when you lift off the throttle. You'll notice more and more chassis manufacturers using hingepin toe as they get wise to it. Xray was the most recent convert.

For the record, the Type-R has one degree drilled into the inner pivot block mounting holes, so even if you are running a 0' pivot block and 0' rear hubs, your car will still have 1' of rear toe. As another example, if you are running a 2' rear pivot block and 1' rear hubs, your car then has 4' of rear toe. The rear hubs can be mounted backwards (left on the right and vice versus) to reduce rear toe at the hubs, which is very helpful in my opinion.

Last night for a quick fix, i swapped my rear block to the front. Is there any advantages/disadvantages of having toe in your front arms?

that will actually give you toe out on suspension (inboard pin angle). after correct them with steering turn buckles, you can expect more initial steering but less stable front end. as per manual say and also from my experience.


da john wee

It does too, I turn it goes then lets loose. I ordered all new hubs, and blocks. Hope fully i can get it set up right.

I want to buy a JRXSR, I really want to, but I am held back by the fact that nothing new is coming from losi... I sent them an email about it. Can someone give me a little hope about something new ? ability to fit 5400 lipos ? a new softer top plate ? Having a car that has such potential in their hands and doing nothing to promote it the slightest bit is driving me crazy.

I DONT want to buy a car that I'll have to modify with a dremel out of of the box just to give it the proper flex. Am I alone in this situation ? Man, if I ended up buying one just before they finally release the much needed updates, that would piss me off real bad.

What much needed updates are you refering to? The Losi Type R was ahead of its time and still is. So good that it does not constantly need newer parts to make it race worthy. "Every" car out there right now needs modification to fit lipo and all of them need more than the Type R in my opinion. Having the biggest mah Lipo does not mean you will go faster or win more races, there are plenty of lipo's on the market right now that are 5000mah and can drop right in. The only thing I wish was that there were still team drivers but I think the people on this form have filled in great from the absence of Losi support on this car. The car is great just where its at.:sneaky:

Do not hesitate,this car is very capable,i was at novak race this year qualified 2nd in 17.5 a main out of 65 cars and had tq until last qual which i was on another tq run when the diff let go,Jim piersol qualified 3rd,with a flying fox layshaft you can run a 5200 50c tp with no mods

Don't worry, I am not a RC fashion victim who thinks that I need the greatest. It's just that Orion packs are mandatory where I race (Switzerland) and I recently bought a Molecular 5400. Also the 4mm tube plugs might be a problem (not sure) with the regular top plate. But I know that my 3 year old Orion will fit, I just might need/want to use something else someday. The main reason why I am complaining is much more towards the commercial attitude of Losi which is very disapointing , especially knowing how easy it would be for them to release a few more parts, among which a "modern" top plate. I know the car can be money, I just feel let down even though part support is okay.

Honestly your issues are justified and we have no proof from Losi that there is anything new coming for the car. There are some benefits though, you can LCD front driveshafts for 1/2 to 1/3rd the cost of the competitors. Mods needed to fit the lipo are about 20 mins worth of work and the battery is in probably the best spot it can be.

Mmh, yeah... I like to give my money to companies that actually do something to deserve it a bit. I know of several persons who feel exactly the same about the car : great car despite the hassle of having imperial sizes, but nothing from the company. We just can't understand how come they didn't take advantage of the great result of french driver Lucas URBAIN at the euros. If they release a new car next week, I'm buying one without hesitation. Otherwise... I will buy one used for 50 euros in 5 years.

greg,
i sent ya a text bro.

17.5 rubber
 

Do you guys use tire warmers for rubber ?

Is yes, what's the regular method of tire compound/ warmer ?

thanks
Mike

Typically don't use them indoor but probably should sometimes when the track is cold. For outdoor here's the method I followed, seemed to work well for me.

20 min before the start of the race:

- Apply traction compound to clean tires.
- Start baking to 70 deg for 15 min. I wrapped the tires with the blue shop paper rags to prevent traction compound from getting the tire warmers all greasy.
- Pull off, whipe tires off, run through tech.
- Hit the track.

I typically did only one siting lap. This was for a track that was between 80-130 deg with Sorex 36R, Sorex 32R and RB30 tires.

Not sure that was absolutely the best method. I experimented with different temps and it seemed that if I got the tires too hot, the beginning of the run was kinda weird feeling. I think looking back I may only bake compound into the tires 10 min for anything over 120 deg track temp.

I was getting about 8-10 runs without rotating tires before the front tires would start showing the belts. I felt this was pretty good wear.

Hope this helps, I'm interested in reading other people's experiences.

There is a metric screw kit from RcScrewz and i did not have the presence of mince to order some to have in stock w/ my last order. Next order from them i will have the metric stainless screws for the Type-R in stock on my website.

I agree with you. I've been in talks with various fabricators, if Losi stops making the parts, we (Flying Fox and I) have agreed to pick up and continue the production and development of the car.

Right now there really isn't anything the car is REALLY lacking all the stuff that we need is relatively minor and almost doesn't justify the expense of fabrication.

With the shock springs how do you tell the difference between all the rates, if the little tags with the rates have fallen off.
With Corally sprimgs you count the coils, Tamiya and HPI are color coded.

Rhys

Good to hear... Here in europe I heard of people also interested by the car enough to "develop it", well, sort of.

Just measure the diameter of the spring wire with some calipers. Some where in this thread is a table showing what size each rate is.

The spring wire size chart
to tell them apart without the little stickers:

• 10.5lb .045"
• 12.5lb .047"
• 15lb .052"
• 17.5lb .054"
• 20lb .056"
• 25lb .060"
• 30lb .063"
• 35lb .066"
• 42.5lb .071"
• 50lb .072"
• 60lb .073

Rod

http://www.redrc.net/2010/03/jake-wr...elopment-team/

Solid evidence of the continuing demise of Losi's electric TC program.

I am currently a firm believe that with this TC and rubberz you should always use 17.5 up front and 15 in the rear. It always works great. It will be a few pages back now but I posted a pic of how I mark the springs so you don't mix em up. Basically you use a dremel and cutting disk and put little "nicks" into the top or bottom of the spring. I use 1 for 10.5, 2 for 12.5, 3 for 15 and so on.

Welcome back Dragonfire, long time no post. I was beginning to think that you abandoned the Type R.

Thanks guys

Rhys

LOL that is funny stuff!

Nah I just don't get on and post much these days, busy with other stuff a bit latley.

Going to be interesting real soon around my place... With another Losi turning up prolly next week some time all three of us (brothers) will be running the same chassis! Should make for some interesting racing as my brother is one of OZ's fastest 17.5t racers (2nd at last years nats, Won summernats 2 months ago). He is very picky on setup so will prolly give you 17.5 racers quite a bit of usable setup data for lower grip rubber racing.

NIB Losi
 

If anyone is interested I have a new in box Type R kit for sale. $300

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...e-r-300-a.html

Good news all, I've gotten my stock of Layshafts. I've been processing back orders for the last day or so. If you had one on backorder expect it at your door in the next week.

I didn't get spools yet, Flying Fox is working on the material the drive cups are made out of to prevent the spinning and is planning to release them at the same time as the new stock of spools so if you have a spool on back order email or pm me please, it may be a longer wait.

On behalf of Flying Fox and Skyrocket thanks for all your patience and support!

-Tory

Tory, I would like to thank you for your patience during the long wait for the new batch. For anyone who has had to wait, thankyou and please understand that the delays have been in no way the fault of Skyrocket.

We are now producing parts in much larger numbers to prevent these delays from happening. The Spools and Outdrives are not far away and the new outdrives will be great. So far in testing, none have failed. They can be used in the diffs as well and should be slightly less in cost than the origional Losi parts.

I switched my front diif to be low and it seems like my main belt is now rubbing on the chassis right as it leaving the slot that is cut in the chassis for pulley clearance. Am I doing something wrong or do i have to change something:confused:

I run foam carpet with no traction compound. I also run the stock 42 pulleys

No that sounds right to me. I had to file the edge of the slot to clear the belt.

Ah thanks. I did start to dremel it, but figured i'd ask. Your spool dropped me almost a 1/2 second per lap consistently on the not so common foam tire with no traction compound set up. Spools are now the must have at the track!

Can I have the full size image of your avatar? :lol:

Ha- she was claiming '7 foot woman':D

I had to file mine as well. I'm running foam on carpet w/ 2 diffs and had to file front and back.

On the chassis I run outside on asphalt i file it a little more than the foam ones to allow for rocks.

I went to order some parts on Losi House and did not see a menu for Type R parts........ Did they stop making or carring parts??......... Any other places have parts??....... I orderd from Stormer's and got what I needed but wanted to know of other places.

........Feels good to get back on board with Losi.......;)

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...e-R/Categories

But you can also order them from me :) i have a ton of stuff in stock. I have to edit my website and put all the parts online. These stupid MAP pricing rules from horizon are getting on my nerves too because i can't stay competitive with ebay people.

Thanks Tory!!:)