Originally Posted by hpiracer0911

got a link to prs need to get some stuff

Originally Posted by PeteB

Wohoo - Speedtech ROCKS! - my new favorite store...

I just hope that international post is upto scratch... I might even be the first in Australia to have one...


Pete

Originally Posted by Capelracer

Bastard! - mine'll get to me thru sydney so an extra day to get across the nullabor

Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr

Anyone running the 13.5 Brushless on their TypeR? What spur are you using? I currently have a 128, 114 and I'm looking for a 3rd gear to put on my rollout chart.

I also have no idea what rollout to start with for this car. The track is a smaller Carpet track. Usually pretty tight. With 12th scale we would typically run a 2.2" to 2.5" rollout with the 13.5.

Originally Posted by masterhit

I believe that is the procedure for setting droop. For setting the up-travel, which are the screws in the sway bar mounts, I use the following procedure.

I loosen the up travel screws and press the chassis flat on the set-up board. I then lift up the wheel I wish to set and using a standard height gage measure the amount of up travel on the inside of the wheel. Just to clarify slide the height gage under the wheel that is being held up, and the surface of the set-up board. By adjusting the up travel screw you change the amount the arm is allowed to lift, or travel up. There is a bit of "feel" to this method.

I started with the old JRX-S standard setting of 2mm of up travel. This is using the set-up board surface as zero which the chassis is set pressed flat to.

Obviously their are better ways of doing this. Set-up wheels would eliminate any discrepancy due to the pliability of the tires. Another method if you have blocks available of the right thickness is put them underneath the tires while the chassis is pushed flat and adjust the up travel screws and go by the feel of the chassis as it tries to rise. And of course feel free to remove the shocks based on your preference and time available.

Confused yet?

Mike Slaughter

Edit for some more clarification. Again this is for up-travel. Technically yes, droop screws adjust up-travel of the chassis from ride height. But I understand him to mean the actual up travel screws which are in the sway bar mounts which control the up-travel of the arms in relation to the chassis. For instance if we consider droop the amount of lift, or up-travel the chassis has from ride height, up travel would control the amount of drop the chassis has from ride height. So if 2mm of droop (at 4mm ride height) means that if the chassis is lifted the wheels will leave the ground at 6mm, then 2mm of up travel....er......down travel???.... would mean that if the tires were supported independitly that the chassis would dip 2mm below the zero surface of the tires contact patch, or again 6mm of chassis travel from ride height.

Basically bump stops to put it simply, and bluntly.

I mainly have found it to be a powerful tool in combating traction rolling. When the chassis rolls to much and the inside wheel begins to lift the outside is caught by the up travel screw creating a long, rigid arm that extends from the wheel contact patch to the other side of the chassis stopping a traction roll through leverage on the center of mass. I'm sure it has other uses but I am still trying to rack my brain around them. In dirt they are so much more obvious do to the huge amounts of travel and the fact that the tires leave the surface much more often.

Another use is if the chassis is "digging" in the corners. E.g. there is a bunch of tire rubber on the chassis from the chassis actually hitting the surface in a hard corner. This could be counter acted by not allowing the chassis to dip into the ground by hitting the hard stop of the up travel screws. But be warned this can sometimes cause things to be a bit erratic, at least from my experience in the the full size arena.

Originally Posted by PeteB

Attention Capelracer...

The Eagle has landed, I say again, the Eagle HAS landed.

Originally Posted by POOKYT

syndr0m--You can easily adjust the camber mod links by removing the screw on the C hub and rotating it.....

Originally Posted by RBLove

Blake,

I'd start that 13.5 around the 1.20 range for Pit Road. Down at the WoHaG you need to be around a 1.30 - 1.35.

In 12th scale those guys were running about the same roll out you are running at Pit Road.

Originally Posted by ROBORAT

POOKYT: would you mind expounding on that futher? not sure how that's done. i dont have the car yet on hand but it should be here in a couple of days and i'd like to know how you actually adjust camber with the new camber mod. looking at the pics in the losi site, i cant quite imagine how to easily do adjustments.

Originally Posted by SpeedDesignz

Ran my Type R today for the first time at our last trophy race,


TQ and a Win in the stock class.
car was simply amazing ... well worth the wait.



Big thanks to Mike H for the tips

Originally Posted by syndr0me

Ran the car today. On the fourth lap, I bested my fast lap with the previous car. Granted, this one is a little bit underweight with the LiPo, but it didn't take long at all to get a feel for things. No broken parts, though my only incident was hitting a board square with the front, so I didn't test its durability too much. It was easy to drive clean. :-)

Others have mentioned the kit setup pushes (foams) and I had the same experience. I tried going to a normal camber link up front without much change. I don't have any tuning parts to try yet, but if you've got some suggestions on how to get more steering with the stock parts, that would be cool.

The car was extremely smooth and fast, and carried a lot of corner speed. I just struggled with it being a little slow to turn in, and pushing quite a bit exiting the turns on power. I don't know how much the light LiPo might have affected this, but one of the guys I race with (smoke81) is working on a solution for that. I imagine he'll post here about his progress. The car is currently 46.8oz w/o the body. :-D