Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
New Novak Stock Brushless >

New Novak Stock Brushless

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

New Novak Stock Brushless

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-14-2007, 04:53 PM
  #511  
Tech Adept
 
sepirts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 140
Default

Originally Posted by Arboleda

PS - Any tips on pinion for an MF2 with a 13.5 / Orion 4800 combo?

I've run an MF2 with a 13.5 and Orion 4800. I usually start with my stock +2 teeth for pinion. I've gone as much as +4 teeth, if I'm on a large open track.

Stock being = 19-21, depending on your setup.
sepirts is offline  
Old 02-14-2007, 05:41 PM
  #512  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Croydon, PA (United States)
Posts: 45
Default

What do you guys used to check your motor temps?
The8BitHero is offline  
Old 02-14-2007, 07:11 PM
  #513  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 32,999
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by The8BitHero
What do you guys used to check your motor temps?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEMG5&P=ML
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 02-15-2007, 06:21 AM
  #514  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MI
Posts: 462
Default

Originally Posted by smojoe
two questions for the resident experts in this forum

1) is it okay to cut the sensor wires on the motors? I've heard a few rumors that pretty much end in two conclusions: "Go ahead and cut them" and "Don't cut them EVER."

2) do I need to use the GTB's supplied capacitor with the 13.5 motor? You know, the beer keg of a cap. I would like to use the small cap that is included with the LRP worlds kit, mostly because it is 1/20th the size and 12th scales don't have a lot of landscaping area for electronics.
You can cut the blue wire for the thermal sensor but I wouldn't recommend it. If you're getting hot enough to thermal you're getting close to hurting the motor. The rest of the sensor wires are needed.

In 4 cell you definitely need to have the capacitor on the speedo. There's plenty of room for it. I'm thinking about adding a second cap to help keep the speed control temp down.

I can fit the speedo, transcap, and a receiver pack in a L4 style car.
Unregistered is offline  
Old 02-16-2007, 02:40 AM
  #515  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
 
nexxus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 8,947
Trader Rating: 315 (100%+)
Default

I just tried my 13.5 with a sintered rotor from a standard rotor, it runs a LOT cooler, but also feels a lot slower! Do I have to gear up even to get comparable speed? Should it sound different as well?
nexxus is offline  
Old 02-16-2007, 04:57 AM
  #516  
Tech Fanatic
 
SlamMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 847
Default

You do have to gear up when switching to the sintered rotor. People run anywhere between 36 and 42 mm roll out.
SlamMan is offline  
Old 02-16-2007, 05:40 AM
  #517  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 24
Default

I just started racing with the sintered rotor and I think I may be able to gear up as much as 3 teeth or more from the regular rotor. Been running the 13.5 since September with the regular rotor with no troubles. Except I finally burned up my LRP COMP.
Faster1 is offline  
Old 02-16-2007, 05:55 AM
  #518  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
 
nexxus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 8,947
Trader Rating: 315 (100%+)
Default

But should changing from a normal to sintered rotor, and leaving all other things the same, result in a speed drop which I need to gear up again to compensate for?
nexxus is offline  
Old 02-16-2007, 08:02 AM
  #519  
Tech Adept
 
sepirts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 140
Default

Originally Posted by nexxus
But should changing from a normal to sintered rotor, and leaving all other things the same, result in a speed drop which I need to gear up again to compensate for?

Gear up.
sepirts is offline  
Old 02-16-2007, 08:10 AM
  #520  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MI
Posts: 462
Default

Yes, you have to gear up with the sintered rotor because it has less RPM. We're going as high as 2.5 rollout in 12th (or higher) but you have to play with the gear to get the best laptimes. I'm only using motor and speedo temps as a safety thing. The lap times drive my gearing (normally around 2.35 in 12th on carpet).
Unregistered is offline  
Old 02-17-2007, 06:21 AM
  #521  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
 
nexxus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 8,947
Trader Rating: 315 (100%+)
Default

Have found that with the Sintered Rotor, I can't gear up the TA05 far enough, can only go to a 25 pinion and was running a 21 with the bonded rotor, to get the speed back I'd need to be around a 29-30 pinion which won't fit!

Back in with the Bonded Rotor
nexxus is offline  
Old 02-17-2007, 06:34 AM
  #522  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 32,999
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nexxus
Have found that with the Sintered Rotor, I can't gear up the TA05 far enough, can only go to a 25 pinion and was running a 21 with the bonded rotor, to get the speed back I'd need to be around a 29-30 pinion which won't fit!

Back in with the Bonded Rotor
how about dropping a few teeth on the spur??
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 02-17-2007, 06:54 AM
  #523  
Tech Regular
 
RocketRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Durban South Africa
Posts: 337
Default

@Nexus - change the 48dp standard spur in the car to the 64dp 105T spur that is available for the TA05. that will give you the gearing you want. hope it helps!
RocketRacer is offline  
Old 02-17-2007, 07:31 PM
  #524  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
hierog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 893
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

nvm, i got it figured out now!!

Last edited by hierog; 02-17-2007 at 07:49 PM.
hierog is offline  
Old 03-13-2007, 03:33 PM
  #525  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
 
Capelracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Bunbury, West Oz
Posts: 347
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Arboleda
I've seen the announcement that in April, you will be able to buy a "Pro" version of the 13.5 / GTB combo which means that the sintered rotor is already present.

I saw a post on another forum (but then lost track of where I found it) that someone has already been able to purchase the 13.5 Pro motor (not the system with the ESC, just the motor). But a search online did not turn this up and any online vendors. Is the 13.5 Pro motor available for purchase or must one buy the sintered upgrade separate? Thanks!
Just got 1 from Pacific Coast hobbies - still in the old packet (even says neodyninium (whatever) magnets, but is the real deal w/- ribbed can, sintered rotor, orange ring!
Capelracer is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.