Cool, Thx.

Disregard, I just went back through the manual and see I missed the step to add the oring gasket for the diff.

Man it's quiet in this thread. I've had a couple of track days with the car and its fast! It has great steering and lots of corner speed. The only challenge I've had with the car is with the ball cups for the servo and steering links. If I barely tap anything, they pull out, not all the way out, just enough that the car doesn't drive straight any longer. I tried the Xray ball cups but they are a bit tighter. Is anyone else experiencing this issue?
Also, we have a big race coming up at our track and we have a weight limit (Roar weight limit), 1320 grams. This car is really light out of the box. I'm curious what weight everyone is using and where are they placing the weight. I was thinking about switching to heavier batteries for stock, maybe 8100's. Thanks in advance.

One of my locals had their steering knocked out of alignment with some minor bumps in practice yesterday. Nothing looked bent so we suspected the thread slipped in the cups.

Was on the sideline of a guy who switched from MTC2R to 3. He matched his old laptimes on his first battery.
Having a 7100mAh Cayote bat, he had to space out the motor by 2mm to balance. This way his motor to battery distance was 22mm - to me that is really large...
He had a random front driveshaft failure from a mini hit, and cutting the front deck bridges gave him tons of speed on low grip, dusty and hot asphalt. Funny enough we measured his tyre temps after the run. My prediction was that the hotter rears jndicate overstear, but he mentioned that he would have preferred a more sharp front end.
Overall it's a beautiful chassis and especially the body mounting, shock and upper bulkhead slider parts will find imitators I assume. Diff height is such that the driveshafts are horizontal when the car rests on his springs.

Yea I came to the same conclusion. Any suggested workarounds?

Still waiting for option parts (Swaybars, Topdecks, Springs) to become available. Is there any estimated date for those parts to be available again?
For me personally, it makes little sense to change much of the setup before I can try which springs and stabilisers will work for me on the track.

Did the "standard" Ballcups change from the MTC-2 to the MTC-3. Haven't heard any complaints about moving ballcups on the turnbuckle with the old car.
Usually the Xray ones are pretty bulletproof, if the ball diameter is matching the MTC-3 balls (haven't measured the balls). But i can definetly say, don't use the awesmatix ones The only benefit i can see is that they will develop or even come with so much slop you won't notice a tweaked linkage

I can't confirm if the ball cups have changed, but I didn't have this issue on the MTC-2. Also, I don't think the Xray ones work, they are really tight on the ball cups. I may end up switching to their ball cups as well.

From memory, Xray balls are 4.9mm and Mugen are 5.0mm. They're not compatible.

Thanks. I may give the the Xray balls a try.

A lot of Awesomatix guys went to Yokomo ballcups 4.8mm (B9-207A) and are happy with that. The set of ballcups are quite cheap and maybe the ballstuds also. But they went with these because of the slop of the ballcup on the ball, not because the threads are slipping on the turnbuckle. I can only assume that it's no problem with the Yokomo ones.

The AXON 5mm Ballcups are also high quality and i heard no complaints from people using these. And if the MTC-3 Ballcups are 5mm there is no need for new balls.

Thanks I'll check those out as well.

Quick question, for stock 21.5 racing, what batteries are you guys running. Trying to figure out a better way to add weight to the car to meet the 1320 grams limit. Was considering going to a higher capacity for the extra weight.

depends on the size of the track. for 21.5 6800 is minimum for me but check your voltage after a run go from their. I try staying as close to 8v after a run as possible.

In my opinion it depends on a few factors. Are you running 21.5 with an RPM limit? Then the sustained voltage of a bigger battery has not that much of an effect because the voltage doesn't influence the topspeed. And of course the track itself you are running on.
For me it is always a ~6000-6300 mah Battery at 230 - 270g, because i just don't like the heavy feeling of big batteries. The nimble feeling is worth nearly any other tradeoff.
But it requires that you have enough space to place weights on your chassis. An added advantage is that the weight is therefore placed lower.

All great points. I'm currently running 6100's and agree I love the nimble impact. The challenge is these chassis are getting lighter and lighter and I'm finding out that I'm running out of places to put weight low in the chassis. Appreciate your input!