Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

the reason i was asking, is actually wierd as you didnt know my tc3 was one of the irregular toe in victims, i just finished my new milled chassis and was installin it and was playing around with the rear end to see if i could "fasten" it in straight , well the second time i forgot about the bumber and viola, the toe in on the back was Perfect. Coincidence ... miracle i dont know but ill take it.
johnny

sosidge

You should still build them with rebound - to do this you need a little more oil in the chamber.

First of all you need to make sure the foam compensator is well soaked in oil.

Then, screw the cap on with the shock shaft half way up the body. They'll normally end up with some rebound afterwards.

If the rebound is too hard or too much (I always aim for about 50% of the stroke, slowly), you need less oil, so unscrew the bleeder a couple of turns, compress the shock, and let a small amount of oil flow out before tightening the bleeder again.

If the rebound is too little, or the piston is sucked back, you need more oil - time to take the cap back off and add a drop more oil.

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

ttt

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

I have been running at M&M in Houston which is a dusty outdoor asphalt track lately. I have made some changes to the setup to reduce the amount of steering. I am using the rear shock tower on the front with the upper shock mount on the second hole out. Still using the oneway. All else the same as the setup on the first page. A new oudoor asphalt track has opened up on Hwy 6 "Lunatic RC".

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

JOhn S and everyone,

When I built my last 2 or 3 Tc3-I did the TRanny cases by opening them up with a dremel and sanding drum. You could say my trannies were loose as goose. ON my newest car (building it now) I did the tranny cases totally different. I just removed blems and high spots with a hobbyknife. I even shimmed it out and everything. NOw theres very little play fore aft on the input shafts and very little slop or endplay in the outdrives. I mean very little. But-the drivetrain is free and without binding. WIll it spin for 8-seconds??-probably NOT!!!

Heres my take and I want other opinions as well. YOu can free up the drivetrain to the point that it spins like mad on the bench, but has so much play that on the track-you are losing efficiency in the drivetrain and therfore overheating motors and also losing top speed. And also-with all that slop-the crown gear and ring gear are constantly changing mesh-maybe binding for a split second and free the next.

I know my motors are smokin hot in my Tc3 at a much lower rollout than in my XRays (1.00" rollout vs. 1.06"!!!)

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Rayhuang-I aggree that your method is sufficient. I prepped my TC3 the same way and got 10 second freespin with oiled bearings. I aggree that vibrations are more of a problem if you make things too loose. These vibrations will cost you on top end.

roll_tide

John,


What is this rear toe-in problem that's mentioned a couple of posts up? I've noticed that my car looks like the toe-in isn't the same on both sides in the rear.

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

Ya if u get the drivetrain too loose, things will also start to wqear and break more quickly as well.

acloco

Ray....use my method that I posted earlier. Only takes out the right amount!

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

roll tide-I have not personally experienced this uneven toein. I suspect the bumper is holding the rear pivot block a little to one side in the case that was mentioned above. There might be some casting flash in the holes. Clean the edges of the holes out with and Xacto knife and see if this corrects the problem. Also the pivots and pins can be damaged in a crash. You might need new ones.

RAP66

iTrader: (1)

u want Yok style shocks??..... get a small drilll & self tap screw (like yokomo). Drill a hole in the shock cap, clean up any burrs & now u have a bleed screw like the yokomo caps...

All of my associated cars have this & it works Great

Trippin Freddy

hi all,
i've just read over this thread, and firstly i'd like to say thanks very much john for your tireless efforts to help everyone out.

i just have a few contributions basically: i remember someone asking ages and ages back who it was that made titanium stub axles, well i can tell you it's Titanium Racing (www.titaniumracing.com), distributed i think by schumacher usa, or speedtech might have them. also, i've seen a lot of people saying you should remove shims from the input shafts, but i know that while you can move the shims around, it's vital that you keep all three on at each end (not sure why, but i know it's true).
looking at the pics of barry baker and christian tabush's cars, a few interesting things i've noticed. both of them are running the older fat ballcups in some places (rear), anyone know why? barry has used alu/steel locknuts everywhere instead of the std composite ones, i'm assuming just for durability etc. also, what the hell is that thing barry's using for a battery spacer? neither of them used foam spacers on their ballstuds, why? christian was using the old diff case (non-ntc3 compatible) on the rear, with steel screws holding it down, again, why? also, what company makes those blue servo posts barry was using?

thanks guys

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Rory-I can only answer a few of your questions. Christians Chassis was an early version. The steel screws were used to repair damage from stripped holes to retain the original parts. The thought was that the dies used to make the plastic parts wear as they are used and he wanted to retain the older parts that were closer to original specs. The front was changed due to irreparable damage.

The foam seals cause some friction. I think the reduced wear on the ballstuds makes them useful for club racing. I can see why you might remove them for a major event.

Larger ball cups are stiffer. They help the car keep its adjustment through the race, especially if the car gets into the boards. I use quite a few Losi ball cups on my TC3 for the same reason.

I agree that you should not remove all the shims. I don't see that removing one rather than moving it toward the center of the car would hurt anything. You are creating more play this way. A little play is good. Too much play sets you up for vibration problems.

Barry sets his cars up on the rugged side. I notice that his gas cars had lock nuts on the tierods up against the ballcups (left and right hand threaded locknuts) so that the tie rods would keep their adjustment.

The battery spacer Barry used appears to me to be a piece of stiff foam. It is nicely cut.

ixlr8nz

Gidday,

Its interesting about the shims. I have run my car for ages with no shims in it whatsoever. I can get at least 10secs spin time out of mine too. I will try putting some shims back in where nescesary and see if the car does run better that way.

cya
Mike

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

Mike D,

Are you currently running a spool on carpet with foams? If so, what is your opinion and what is your set up if you do not mind posting it.

Thanks,
Rob Love