Schumacher eclipse 5
#166
Thank you all again for the help/advise. I was able to finally find the issue with the car pulling left. The right kingpin/hub were binding.
The binding never showed itself when cycling the hub on its own. Today I was verfiying toe out on a setup station and pressed down on the middle front of the chassis and noticed it. Replaced both kingpins with new ti kingpins and the car is much better! I still feel like the ti kingpins are not as smooth as they should be. May change hubs (aluminum) too, but they both look good internally.
What kingpin/hub combo are you all running? Polishing the kingpins? If so, how?
The binding never showed itself when cycling the hub on its own. Today I was verfiying toe out on a setup station and pressed down on the middle front of the chassis and noticed it. Replaced both kingpins with new ti kingpins and the car is much better! I still feel like the ti kingpins are not as smooth as they should be. May change hubs (aluminum) too, but they both look good internally.
What kingpin/hub combo are you all running? Polishing the kingpins? If so, how?
Also a thing that can never be stressed enough, and that Robert also mentions in his videos, is that the rear pod should always be checked for tweak. Or, let me put it simpler. After every tap of a board, track marker and competitor, if your car acts a bit weird, don't worry about the front end or anything else. Take the rear pod off the car, loosen every screw, and retighten in a systematic sequence. I always tighen the motormount side first, then I tighten everything else.
There is no need for putting it on a glass board, or applying pressure in different points. Unless your crash was noted on the richter scale, the parts are straight, but they absorbed the energy of the hit and got tweaked, so they need to be relieved of their tension and reset.
I do two things, I have a steel ruler to see if the chassis is straight, and I do the pod. Then your car should be straight and true every run
#167
Hello all!
I am looking to get an E5 for GT12 tarmac racing and some occasional carpet 17.5. Are there any must get spares or upgrades? I imagine I need a rear diff kit for tarmac. I am thinking alloy center pivot blocks and hubs.
Does anyone have a tarmac GT12 setup sheet?
I am looking to get an E5 for GT12 tarmac racing and some occasional carpet 17.5. Are there any must get spares or upgrades? I imagine I need a rear diff kit for tarmac. I am thinking alloy center pivot blocks and hubs.
Does anyone have a tarmac GT12 setup sheet?
Then you're mostly golden.
#168
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
The front bumper plate(U8462), a few front pivot balls(U8475), a few of the plastic steering links, and a bigger load of bearings :-) Usually the car can take a severe beating, so not much you need. A few diff rebuild kits(U4861) is nice to have.
Then you're mostly golden.
Then you're mostly golden.
#169
I do not crash a lot, but I do run 6.5 Efra modified, so when I crash it's usually quite a big one
#171
I have one of these with a couple months of black carpet only on it.
https://krazedbuilds.com/shop/schuma...10-chassis-kit
https://krazedbuilds.com/shop/schuma...10-chassis-kit
#172
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I have one of these with a couple months of black carpet only on it.
https://krazedbuilds.com/shop/schuma...10-chassis-kit
https://krazedbuilds.com/shop/schuma...10-chassis-kit
#174
#175
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
there are 6 x droop spacers black 0.25mm (U8476) in step 8 of instruction manual, i just did the maintenance to the front, and they are not 0.25mm thick, instead they are all 0.2mm each.
was the kit shims undergone running change like a12 to 0.2mm instead
was the kit shims undergone running change like a12 to 0.2mm instead
Last edited by choisan; 03-31-2024 at 06:27 AM.
#176
Mine are definitely 0.25mm.
#178
If that is happening to you then two things are going wrong.
Youre using too much dual rate to get the steering you feel you need.
Also your clipping something that causes the suspension to compress and lift it up past the cf front plate.
You could try running a longer thread ball end then put a spacer and/or nut on the bottom of the arm. Check wheel clearance.
This could help it not get stuck on the front plate.
Bigger problem is that this car when its doing this is literally putting the brakes on.
We noticed/found this a while back. The inside wheel will just drag into the carpet and slows the car down to a stop.
We worked on setup to make the car naturally steer and cut our dual rate almost in half by doing so. Picked up laps, not just tenths.
Soften the car up to let it steer,
Try the nickel bump spring and gold front springs with battery all the way back or 1 spot forward.
This should show a difference. Also try 12K in the sides and 20K center to help it generate bite.
High bite we found the Gold bump spring was super easy to drive and fast in the corners.
#179
Tech Regular
The only thing I found to work was to add posts to the lower plate.