veecee

iTrader: (34)

Haven't downloaded this myself but I'd say this would be it - http://tamiya.com/japan/rc/setting/evo5_init.pdf

rcnewb2004

I race on parking lots and practice on regular street ... so I am beginning to hate the gear covers of the EVO V... anyone have a good solution to the problem... by modifying the car and not modifying where i race/practice?

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

What seems to be the prob with the gear covers? Actually I wish they came transparent.

AWK

iTrader: (9)

Is anyone going to have their Evo 5 at Tamiya USA this Saturday? I would like to see it in person and get some input on it. People are already trying their Evo 4s vs. the 415s to get an idea of what to use. I hear this has a lot more pull of the corners.

gijoe64

iTrader: (30)

I am pretty torn between buying the 415 MSX or the TB. I will be racing on carpet with rubber tires stock class. Here everyone runs belt cars, and I have had a Pro-4 and it sucked I am very skidish about buying another shaft car. Is this car just as good as the 415 in handeling and cornering speed?

Thanks

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Definitely a car to have for stock racing. No point buying a 415 that just lost the Worlds.

bender

iTrader: (4)

After running an MSX since the start of the year, I switched to an Evo5 last month, just to see what a shaft drive was like.

After 2 racedays at my local track, I am within 1 second of my best ever time attained with the MSX

The Evo5 steers better, and has a lot more "puch" - this is in stock class.

For stock I'd say get the Evo, for Mod I think the MSX or new MRE would be better just due to being smoother.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

in agreement with bender. Evo5 is great for stock carpet.
Gave the car it's first run the other weekend, loads of steering, and just plain rapid.
Only reason I didn't win the meeting is that I stripped a spur gear (for the first time in years) in the last final.... still TQ'd every round though, and that was with a new car, and a 5weeks of not racing

I would expect the MSX MRE to drive similar though, given they share the same steering setup (which I personally feel is the reason for the increase in steering)... mines winging it's way across the world now, be here before the next national

zacabrandy

iTrader: (4)

I have never raced carpet but I could imagine that the others use belt cars due to the high grip levels. These car would be smoother and a feel a bit easier to drive which then allows more confidence and therfore faster times.

I race a pro 4 here in Aus on tar/concrete tracks and the cars is one of the fastest cars in Stock. Smooth with unreal response and punch. I have had to learn to drive the thing very smoothly though but it is very fast.

I would say the Evo 5 by rights should be even better than the Pro 4. I cant understand why you had so much drama's with you Pro 4 but shaft is definitely better for stock especially if you race on tight and technical tracks.

C van der Hagen

I tested the Evo 5 steering with the 415MSX but i didn't have the same amount of steering i have with the evo 5.

bender

iTrader: (4)

Guys I need a bit of help with some setup ideas.

After a few good weeks with the Evo5, I feel like I've hit a brick wall in performance - can't seem to get the car going any quicker

There are two areas which could be improved:

Firstly, the car doesn't really turn-in hard enough, I found two small improvements today that helped, one was running 1mm kick up, the other was running a narrower front end via B-A blocks. I'm thinking that going to B-X or B-XA may help even more??

Secondly, the rear of the car doesn't want to rotate enough through the middle of a turn. I'm really lost with this one as i put harder rear spings on (Blue) but it didn't seem to help. I did run a softer shock setup (30w oil, no foam) which oddly enough did seem to help a bit. Any ideas?

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

I don't run a evoV but you could always have a shorter wheelbase to get it to rotate more in the middle of the corner and maybe less caster (say from 4* to 2* castor) to get it to turn in more.

Charles

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

Bender - I don't run an Evo5, but a couple of things that have always worked for me, when running the Pro4 were... (Incidentally, the Pro4 had abundant steering...so we spent more time tuning it out!)..


1: Running more castor - increases initial bite quite alot.
2: More subtle - Run a short camber link up front..
3: Start raising roll centres to get those tires working more..


On the rear:
1: Less toe (pretty dramatic! - 1/2 degree at a time..)
2) Slightly longer camber link. The idea is that as the car rolls, the long link produces less camber and the rear breaks away more easily. This break-away also produces a more consistent feeling... - We used to run a long link up front on the Pro4...
3) Lower roll centre - allows car to roll, and therefore unload a tire. Less grip - more slide..(Would recommend you don't mes with the rollcentre too much. Even on both ends has always worked for me..)

What are you running now?

(Caveat - I don't run this car... never have. Never even seen on in the flesh. But these principles helped with the Pro4. Hope they do you some good too..)

bender

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Angry.

Those ideas make sense to me. Sometimes ideas people give you seem backwards to what I've found, but what you're suggesting seems logical to me

Just a few notes on my setup:

I'm already running 4degree caster blocks, so the only way I can increase caster is to add kick-up to the front (and this did help!)

Raising the front roll centre - haven't tried it yet but I know it worked with the MSX so I'll definately give that a go.

On the rear I'm running 2 degrees toe-in, I might use 1.5 occasionally.

The longer rear camber link sounds like a good idea, and I've already lowered the rear roll centre a bit from standard.

Thanks.

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Also try playing around with wheel spacers as it work out very well for me when fine tuning the car on different tracks