Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

hey guys...

Considering going back to a tamiya ride and looking at the evo 5. What do you get in the kit? Which toe blocks? Springs? Sway bars?

Also, where is a good place to get one from?

What spares are recommended... I have heaps of spares for my 415's so only the different parts...

Thanx...

RMF-888

iTrader: (5)

guys wat do you think is the advantage of the EVO5 to the TRF415MSX?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Found a better method now, just chop the top off, like for the rear sway bar ball cups... make a much cleaner hole.

I've now sorted my car (had the steering bell crank ball joint in the wrong place... opps), and it's all setup properly... which maybe a bit premature given I won't be able to run the car for a while :'(

MR JOLLY

when i used your setup block sheet
with 1xa - 1 e it comes out 5 drgree toe in on the table

i want 1 degree toe out front
shall i put x on ??

to many shim`s on this car bloody loads
spur gear is even harder to change then evo 4 (if you had the 2 piece motor mount that is )

nearly all built with nitride sus pins & nitride shock shaft`s
blue & Ti screw set on

thing that i noticed ,that might help stop bevel pinions stripping ,put more shims on the input shafts to push bevel pinion deeper into the gearbox to have better face contact with bevel gear, you can then shovety the diff side to side to get the play with out binding
since the diff setup uses 0.03mm shims either side you have a lot to play with

when i dine it per manual (my perssonal feeling) was the bevel pinion is to far away from the gear

hope this helps

only stripped 1 gear on my evo 4 running indoors @ break neck speed

i have had SD from the start & eneded up with a lcg , so shaft & me are like husband & wife

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

woudl help if you looked at the zero degree hub chart rather than the 2deg one.... hence why you get 5deg
For 2.5, X/E is what you want

1 deg on the front... D/B

I'll have a look at the pinion gear shimming, got plenty of time before I run it... ta

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

toe blocks: D, D XA, E
Springs: four yellow springs
sway bars: silver. but looks to be the same diameter as tamiya yellow or blue sway bars. someone with calipers can measure and confirm.

recommended spares: one of each? caster block, steering knuckles, a set of arms. (arms comes with one rear and one front).

also get those flange tubes that go underneath the steering and is held in by a 3x8 button head screw.

good luck!

MR JOLLY

on my car they are held in place with a counter sunk 3x8 screw
, but if you lose these then tobee craft do some nice blue shouldered 1 piece screw that get`s rid of the flange tubes

Edd
i`l try harder to look properly

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Done, about 0.2mm thinner than the yellow ones... so my guess is that they are equivilent to the yellow minus paint

MR JOLLY

built the evo 5 , then took the front input shaft out again & redone the shimming
if you shim it like the manual say`s , then the input shaft moves about to much , if you turn 1 wheel on front you can see the shaft moving up & down
manual has it 4(6) xME1 shims bevel gear side & 5(8)x ME2 shims on centre cup side , in brackets i have put this on mine
shaft is much more sound & doesn`t move around alot (binding isn`t noticeble either)
you might use 1 less either side or you might not
HTH

the rear is no prob`s, (not keen on circlips on bevel either )

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

So the evo5 comes with only 1 stabiliser at both ends, one toe setting both ends. are the stabilisers the same as the 415's? What is the toe setting? Does it come with the 0 degree rear hubs(alloy)?

Can someone confirm that u can achive a rollout of about 20mm with rubbers? thats an fdr of about 10:1

thanx...

veecee

iTrader: (34)

Yes only 1 med stabiliser at both ends (bare silver, non-powdercoated). Part # for a full set is 49392 - TB Evo V Stabilizer rod set. This includes 3 pairs.

There are no extra toe blocks - only 2x Ds, 1x XA, 1x E. The 2x Ds are used on the front which gives the rear end 3 degs with the other blocks. In theory you could run a bit of inboard toe at the front (E and D) and run 2.5 degs rear toe (XA and D). And that's with the supplied 0 deg alloy rear hubs.

I'm not sure if you'll get 20mm rollout. I just finished building mine last night for stock with 72T spur and 29T pinion (48 pitch). That combo gives a 33.75 rollout and there's not a lot of clearance for that spur. I wouldn't think you could go much bigger than a 75T spur before reaching for dremel. With that spur and pinion combo, the motor was mounted 1/3 of the way from the end of the mounting slots (relative to the centre of the car).

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Maximum allowable spur is 72-73 tooth (48 pitch) and a 20 mm rollout is not achievable by the looks of it.

bender

iTrader: (4)

21/73 is the smallest ration I've managed to fit on the car - and that's a FDR of 8.47:1

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

From what I remember, the upper deck is narrow on both sides of the spur meaning you can't dremel much. Is there clearance at the bottom for a bigger spur? If there is, you could easily "camber" the edges of the upper deck next to the spur which would allow a few more teeth. The smallest rollout I have run recently is 23mm which would be about 8.7:1. So mayb there is no probs with a bit of work but would rather know before I buy considering it is normal for me to get two kits at once.

I assume RC-Champ is still the best source of all things tamiya?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I've got a 98t (64dp) spur in my car at the moment, there is plenty of side to side clearance on the lower chassis, and enough on the top too (although I have cambered the top deck just in case). the biggest problem I have is that the spur is very close to protruding below the chassis. I reckon a 100tooth is about the limit in that regard, before the spur stick out below the chassis.

HiH
Ed