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3racing Cero Ultra V1 & V2

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Old 11-02-2023, 05:21 AM
  #691  
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Building the V2. Chassis is shorter (WB is the same) and narrower. Drilled for shorties. Packs in the electronics for sure. Now where to put ballast.
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Old 11-03-2023, 02:37 PM
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Got a Sport 55 from TQ. The box included these “improved parts”. Should I use them? However, I broke this by over turning it. I think the proper way is having the turnbuckle screw into ball cup first before screwing into the arm so we know how much thread left.




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Old 11-03-2023, 04:09 PM
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It's been mentioned many times, so I guess once more won't hurt!
Run a 4mm RH tap through the upper A-arm (but NOT in the eyelet). Then screw the turnbuckle into the eyelet, leaving at least one full thread exposed. The turnbuckle should then screw into the arm with little to no resistance.

Another thing I've seen happen a few times: check that the set screws in the axle joints are tight (or add loctite). Seen a few fall out while running, which catches on the hub causing a crash and/or broken hub or sheared tabs off of the axle hex.
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Old 11-03-2023, 04:27 PM
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I purchased a reverse / left hand rap tap set. Solved the problem

ATOPLEE 7pcs Metric HSS 6542 Left Hand Thread Tap Set, M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 https://a.co/d/8W7Ups3
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Old 11-03-2023, 04:38 PM
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Since I need to order the ball cups, mind as well order the CVD. C147 said for Cero Ultra and has bearings on shafts. C147C looks right, but it said for FWD Cero. Which one should I use for Sport55 with original outdrive? Thanks!


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Old 11-03-2023, 05:30 PM
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The one for fwd will work with the plastic diff perfect
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Old 11-04-2023, 03:58 AM
  #697  
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I ran the V2 TC last night at NORCAR for the first time. Car was very smooth right out of the box. As built I hit 318g on all four wheels.
A really good TC tuner worked with me and we made just a few tweaks and had the car running some really good times.
Our track is gripped up from a big race (the Halloween Classic) and had 28, 25.5 TC ran on it (134 total car count) so there was a really good set of data on lap times to target. For both of us we added .5mm of anti dive, went to 6 degrees (total) of rear toe and added a top deck screw (it only has two) to the front. I added two and the car developed a slight push. Removed one and it took that away. My friend ran several 8.5's as fast laps but low 8.7 for t-15. That would have put the car close to the "A" last weekend. I will add that this is high grip black carpet and this is currently a graphite chassis car. That is usually a non-competitive combo.
Really happy so far. Hopefully a aluminum chassis will appear soon.
One note. I mentioned that the chassis is narrower and shorter than the original Ultra. The shocks are mounted lower and the sway bars a a new design. Kit bars are 1.2 front and 1.1 rear. That is stiffer than the original car too.
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Last edited by old_dude; 11-04-2023 at 04:13 AM.
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Old 11-14-2023, 07:17 AM
  #698  
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Questions?? 4mm tap

Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy
It's been mentioned many times, so I guess once more won't hurt!
Run a 4mm RH tap through the upper A-arm (but NOT in the eyelet). Then screw the turnbuckle into the eyelet, leaving at least one full thread exposed. The turnbuckle should then screw into the arm with little to no resistance.

Another thing I've seen happen a few times: check that the set screws in the axle joints are tight (or add loctite). Seen a few fall out while running, which catches on the hub causing a crash and/or broken hub or sheared tabs off of the axle hex.
I have a 4mm RH tap ( turn to the right to cut the threads, left to back out of the hole) that is 4mmx0.7. will this work when building the arms?
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Old 11-15-2023, 05:05 AM
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A quick note on the upper arms. The V2 kit I just built had a larger hole in them and did not need drilling before tapping. It might be sized to actually allow just running the screw in as the manual tells you to do. I didn't try it as tapping is very easy.
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Old 11-15-2023, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
A quick note on the upper arms. The V2 kit I just built had a larger hole in it and did not need drilling before tapping. It might be sized to actually allow just running the screw in as the manual tells you to do. I didn't try it as tapping is very easy.
I have the Cero Sport 55 is the same arms in both kits? Would I still need to 4mm tap the arms anyway as Kevin Marcy had suggested?
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Old 11-15-2023, 03:42 PM
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Anybody run the V2 on asphalt yet? Nobody at my track has one yet....
My buddy ran the 5/5 Sport he got from Greg for the first time this weekend at our Practice day. Very impressed. Set up for USGT. I drove it a few laps. It could use a little tweaking, but very good with the Kit setup on it.
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Old 11-15-2023, 07:32 PM
  #702  
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Originally Posted by mac112
I have a 4mm RH tap ( turn to the right to cut the threads, left to back out of the hole) that is 4mmx0.7. will this work when building the arms?
That's the one. The issue was that the upper arm hole was too small, along with the stronger plastic it's made of (graphite mixed in, maybe?) means it was very hard to turn the turnbuckle.
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Old 11-16-2023, 02:25 PM
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Go to 3 racing USA Facebook page I posted a video there on how to do the newer hard carbon upper arms without stripping anything out
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Old 11-17-2023, 09:22 AM
  #704  
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Looking for the Krazed builds aluminum flex chassis can't find it on there site. If someone wants to part with one preferably a new unused one thanks
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Old 11-17-2023, 09:46 AM
  #705  
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Originally Posted by redmonster27
Looking for the Krazed builds aluminum flex chassis can't find it on there site. If someone wants to part with one preferably a new unused one thanks
he has the file and can cut to order send him a message on his Facebook page
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