nikkip

Hi Folks,
I'm hoping I can get a quick answer here. I'd like to know if the extra I payed to have the FULL MONTY done to my motor was worth it according the numbers I received. I'm not sure what I'm looking at, so I'm hoping for a quick explanation and opinions on the results. Thanks again for all the help.

mrreet2001

iTrader: (9)

You pay the "Full monty" price to have someone go through the motor and upgrade / check the parts. ie you payed for someone's time not necessarily numbers.

nikkip

Not knocking the service and fully understand that time is money. I'm super happy with the service and what was done, so much so that I have spent 4 $figures with them. I'm just curious to know if these are average numbers, below average or on target. A quote from the service provider " All these upgrades help unleash each motors true potential. The end result is an increase in RPM on the dyno (under load) along with improved efficiency".So a little jump in the numbers should be expected.

mrreet2001

iTrader: (9)

Might want to provide us with what motor you bought. But frankly without the before numbers us just guessing what they could have been won’t help much.

nikkip

Hey thanks for the help. I guess i should have mentioned the motor smh. R1 V21 21.5, sorry about that. Just wondering if there in line with most 21.5's, not looking for anything special, just some knowledge.

sweems

The numbers seem in line with the r1s I've seen (4 or 5). I don't remember my stator numbers but I think I had 56 mohm, I had access to a meter but forgot to write down the numbers.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Honestly, I would ask whomever did the motor to explain what this means. Dynos, especially, do not translate between machines. This looks like a turbo dyno print out, and you can base the parameters on torque settings, or amp loads or voltage like you have. Each style of test changes the numbers. Anyone who is doing this sort of service should be able to explain what they are looking for from the results, and why.

Likewise , you should be able to get an explanation of the motor readings and the ranges that constitute good, bad, or average in the experience of the builder. Otherwise, this is a page of random numbers .

sweems

For an explanation of the top sheet of numbers check out the document at this link. https://www.motolyser.com/wp/wp-cont...IUserGuide.pdf pages 4 and 5 tell what each number means.

The stator numbers are likely taken from a milliohmeter and are repeatable on any properly functioning milliohmeter if the tester really did his homework they were likely taken at 25*C. Note I say milliohmeter not multimeter, the normal multimeter will not read reliably at the milliohm range it is too low.

The rotor +- numbers are reading its magnetic strength, these numbers are not standardized and will vary from one tester to another. Higher numbers generally relate to more torque and lowers favor higher rpm.

Zerodefect

The dyno numbers are meaningless. Just a clue. Maybe a pattern for the tester to follow. If he sees a gain from proper shimming or whatever, cool. But there's nothing there for you to care about.

It's just nice to have a gone though motor. Where you know all three sensors are half way straight.

nikkip

I would like to thank everyone for taking the time to help educate me in an area that I really need help with. I'll take everyone's advice and contact the builder and have him try and explain it to me in a way I can understand. Either way, it was worth the extra $, ceramic bearings, Teflon shims dyno and time. In no way am I disappointed in my purchase and will definitely continue to support this vendor, im a small business owner and I choose to support the same.

Bry195

those numbers look about right. But since you probably cannot apply them to a motor on chassis they are close to meaningless.

if you know you have to run a 10 second lap for a track and you gear the chassis to peak power it will be the fastest.
if you want the motor cool at the end of the race gear the car so the average speed on track is at the peak efficiency rpm.

if you look at what you have it seems like its cut and dry. however the problem is that a motor on a chassis loses torque to friction and mass so you will not have the efficiency and power at the same rpms.

if the dyno data included peak rpm that the motor could do (lets say 20000 rpm at close to 0 torque) you could run the motor on chassis to its max rpm (lets say 10000 rpm). then you will know that every 1 rpm on chassis = 2 rpm on a motor dyno. then you would know a peak efficiency of 12000 rpm on a motor dyno is 6000 rpm on the chassis. if you geared the motor to 6000 rpm to run a lap it would be the most efficienct and if you geared the chassis to 5000 rpm it would be the most powerful.

you could also work in reverse to make sense of the dyno data. use the conventional method of tuning the motor. run laps with different gearing until you find the fastest lap. what was the average rpm for the lap? that will tell you the ratio of on chassis rpm to motor dyno rpms. then gearing it to tun 20% more rpm will give you the most efficient rpm. it doesnt have to be laps on a track. you can run 100 feet or 50 feet at different gear ratios and the fastest distance will let you back calculate peak power rpm for the motor. then when you go to a track and you know the track distance you can gear the car to that peak power rpm.

if none of that makes sense or its firmly outside your motivation then the sheets wont help you much other than to tell you about things other than peak power and efficiency.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I won't say dyno numbers are meaningless totally. I use mine to dial in a motors timing, find out when it needs a new rotor or to compare motors of like type. Also valuable to get starting rollout numbers for oval racing. But I am a experienced racer and a experienced dyno user.

Roelof

So you want the best of the best and payed for it and do not know what the numbers are..... Maybe I can be wrong but if you do not know the numbers you probably are not a that good racer? If I am right then those numbers have no use....

And a one sensor that is 2 degrees of from the other 2 is huge, so the guy working on the motor did not optimise the sensors......

westendorfy

iTrader: (12)

A brushless motor even a cheapo...untuned one can and will win 21.5 races. Keep oil in the bearings and turn the timing up to around 40 degrees to be safe. Keep gearing it up until it runs the race time at comes off the track around 130-140 degrees F.

When you start doing better and are losing ONLY because of motor speed. Which is years and years of racing.... Then you can worry about the "numbers".

nikkip

I wasn't going to reply to this, but your first comment is so ignorant I couldn't pass on it. First let me tell you that I've been a member here since probably 2006. I couldn't recover my password due to closing a previously associated email, so don't let the join date fool you. I've been racing on road nitro both 10th and 8th scale since 2003 and can assure you, I can drive! That being said, whether I'm good at racing or not, doesn't mean I shouldn't try and educate myself. so seriously get off your high horse mate!

Now your second statement is very useful, thanks. Stay on that course and continue to help out your fellow members instead of bashing them, you'll feel much better about yourself, I promise.
Have a wonderful day.