Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

What's with the wimpy 17.5 stuff Greg? You should be running the 13.5/19t with us.

And if you can find a 108 or slightly bigger spur, I have pinions up to a 41t that you can use if you want to run on Friday. Model Land might have some 64p spurs here locally.

eddie10

iTrader: (26)

whats the deal with the diffs, it seems as the screw is to short.

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

I noticed in my kit that they were about 1/16" too short. It's a good thing for me I had a bunch of them from when I kept snapping them on my Pro 4.

Swampracer

iTrader: (72)

19T about mid season once I get a few races with the TC5 Scott.

Working this weekend...no racing for me.

Cheers

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

You have to do the spring compression suggestion in the instructions, then you should be good for length.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Make sure the nut is fully seated in the plastic piece. It does go in pretty deep.

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

I have built quite a few AE diffs. The spring compression and making sure the nut was in fully was done. It still didn't help. Both screws, front and rear diff, were short. I swapped them out with some I bought from a fastener supply store and it worked. A little bit of a pain but no biggie. The ones from my TC5 were fine, it's just the ones from the TC5R that were short.

poochy

iTrader: (11)

my brand new tc5r is now assembled. everything seems to be running really well except the pull to the left on hard acceleration. i run a mamba 7700 with maxamps 2s 6000mah - very fast car -

i checked the droop and its even between left to right-6 front 4 rear.
swapped tires around.
samething happens without the body.
the shock feels good
fr toe in shimmed 1.5m evenly on all 4 corners
rr toe in shimmed in the back 2 corners 3 degree in
wheel base spacers are fine

the car does sticks to the ground-awesome handling so far

the only obvious thing i saw was not all the arm mounts had the dots facing out-i relooked at the maunal and it indicated the arm mount's dots face outwward. does that matter? any other ideas?

Catalyst

iTrader: (5)

Have you used a tweak board or scales to see if your weight is balanced with that LiPo? I don't have experience with a Maxamps 6000 to know how it weighs vs. the electronics side but if you haven't added weight to the LiPo side it will typically be several ounces lighter than the side with the motor which might be causing it to pull left on acceleration.

I run the PPD Billet base plate and side weight with my SMC packs and it makes it much easier to get balanced left to right and it's pretty close to dead on front to back as well.

fathead

Yes it definitely makes a difference!
All the mounts should have the dots pointing out, if they aren't the car will be different widths on either side.

poochy

iTrader: (11)

it was the arm mounts!!!! others might want to know this since it is easy as heck to install it wrong.

thanks everybody!

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

I would double check the nut sitting in the T like Kraig said. I thought they were to short also until I got it seated all the way down.

RC_DAVE4

iTrader: (3)

The pull to the left is related to slop between the servo saver tube and the steering bell crank. The hex shaped nut is loose. I used epoxy to bond the two together to eliminate this issue. Search my posts for more details.

Dave

losithrasher

how do i get losi 57 pistons to work, they are 2 small to fit on the shaft of my tc5 shocks and my trf shocks.

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

you must have the wrong ones....its the offroad losi pistons that you need...for example, losa5046 is the part number for the correct #56 pistons...

you must have the JRXS pistons that wont work