M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

?

172T front, can fit from yokomo or trf416
rear is 64t

m.

jhberger

iTrader: (1)

Building my first TC5R and have a couple of questions. I went back about a hundred pages, so I don't think these were asked recently.

The shocks come with a small foam and a large foam. It doesn't seem like both will fit in at the same time. I can jam them in, but can't screw the cap all the way on. Is it an either/or choice?

What is rebound on the setup sheet?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Small foamz blue one? Don't put them to shock. They are for "rebound".
With them speed rebound is fast and shock is hard (sorry I can't
use proper words, small pracitce, but shock feel hard in fingers).

Take them off, there should be free space between shock cup and rubber cap.


If you can not screw blue cap to shock body, they probably "fu..." by
factory. I have this problem with new tc5r kit. Take off rubber cap,
foamz, only blue part and shock body. If you still can not screw it down,
you got bad blue part ... Also you can read it there:
http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...showtopic=7696


About rebound, if shock is ready, you can push rod inside and it will back
some to you, and this is rebound. Sometimes speed of return is fast
(for me too much oil inside or blue foams at top) or very slow. If you
build shocks with rebound, try set this value same for all shocks.

I prefer 0 reboud, I just do 1mm hole in black part at the top

Regards!
m.

jhberger

iTrader: (1)

Abramowicz -- Thanks for your advice. It makes sense that stuffing foams above the bladder will make the shock "rebound" faster/stronger. I may have a bad shock body, too. Three go together easily and one is a struggle.

I think I'll leave the foams in the bag.

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

No need to use the bladder foams. Just drill a really small hole in the shock cap.

1) Fill shock with oil and wait until all of the air bubbles escape
2) Push shock piston in about 3/4 of the way
3) Place bladder on top, displacing the correct amount of oil
4) Pull shock piston all the way out, creating a vacuum in the shock body. You will see the bladder compress.
4) Screw shock cap on and viola...no rebound=Properly bled shock.

Castradamus

iTrader: (62)

What would be the handling difference if I set my toe in in the rear as follows:

2 degree arm shims + 1 degree rear hubs = 3 degrees of toe

or

2.5 degree arm shims + .5 degree rear hubs = 3 degrees of toe

Warren Weaver

iTrader: (49)

hub toe gives more steering arm toe in yields less

arm mount toe shortens wheelbase
hub toe does not

jhberger

iTrader: (1)

I've built a lot of old RC10 shocks and they are a pain to get right. The bladder makes it much easier. I'll try your method. Makes sense.

I was a little confused by the "rebound" percentages. I'm used to 1:1 shocks, where "less rebound" means the shock will extend easier than it compresses. Just the opposite in TC5 language.

With one little foam in place, the rebound is slow -- about 2 seconds from compressed to extended. With no foams in, it needs a little Viagra.

Castradamus

iTrader: (62)

What's up Warren. Hope the fam is doing good.

Does it also affect the leverage that the arm has on this shock?

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

Guys, great success with the TC5-R last weekend. Here's the race report:
http://www.redrc.net/2010/03/tozser-...ouring-champs/

I'm still running the car in stock form, although I'm eyeing up some of the aftermarket stuff to try out.
I worked my way to a setup that is simply awesome, great cornering speed, nimble, rotates well... thanks to a couple of guys from BC with their input.

Pete

zake540

iTrader: (19)

Great driving man! You layed it down on the xray guys for sure on the video. Makes us tc5 owners proud to see this car can still beat on these newer cars out there.

Jorge G

Can you post a picture or explain exactly where and how do you drill those holes?

Kurly

iTrader: (2)

Pete, great run, car looked awesome. Ill have to remember that setup for outside. Keep up the great work, Kurly

jhberger

iTrader: (1)

If you look inside the plastic shock cap, you'll see a little hole that's almost started for you. Kind of around the perimeter of the inside of the cap. I could only find a 1/16" bit around the shop, which I think is a little big. I've heard that 1mm is the preferred hole size, which would be around 3/64".

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

I attempted to post some pics, hopefully, you can see what I am writing about.

Here you can see the bottom of the shock cap. You can see the small dimple that is already molded from the factory.



http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/DSC01061.jpg

Here you can see the finished shock cap.



http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/DSC01063.jpg

You can use a small drill bit or a body reamer. Just be careful.