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Old 03-29-2024, 04:01 AM
  #1741  
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Originally Posted by Typeone
When do you guys think its okay to run the MTC1 1.1mm pistons. Been seeing a lot of set up sheets with drivers using those pistons. Cant get a hold of any, anyone has some ill buy them off you. Would like to give it a try.
You can drill some stock ones
https://www.amainhobbies.com/j-t-bea...AaAszYEALw_wcB

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Old 03-29-2024, 05:42 AM
  #1742  
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Originally Posted by Robbob
Stock ones are 1.3mm, a drill bit won't downsize that to 1.1mm
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Old 03-29-2024, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
Stock ones are 1.3mm, a drill bit won't downsize that to 1.1mm
Spitballin' here: can you close existing hole with CA and drill in fresh plastic (ie, shift the holes 90°)?

I'll admit, I don't know if these are two-hole or four-hole Pistons
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Old 03-29-2024, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
Stock ones are 1.3mm, a drill bit won't downsize that to 1.1mm
Gotcha ..... wasnt aware of their stock size.
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Old 03-29-2024, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by blueflagger
Spitballin' here: can you close existing hole with CA and drill in fresh plastic (ie, shift the holes 90°)?

I'll admit, I don't know if these are two-hole or four-hole Pistons
Its possible ..... Ive seen racers do crazier theory things lol.
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Old 04-01-2024, 04:38 AM
  #1746  
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Added a few more things to thingiverse:
1 Fuel line cutter.
Remember the upstops, TPU was way too stiff so I went back to silicone fuel lines at the dampers for an upstop. No need to discuss if this works, doesnt work, drives awfully,....
If you want to try it, you can at least decently cut the fuel lines the same and at a set length using this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6559367

2. Droop measurement circle:
Used this to setup my droop, nice and consistent; measurment to the bottom side of the wheel hex. I found this easier than measuring on the bottom of the arm. This figures should be around the same as the ones used in the setup sheets (for me they are, but theres printer tolerances, car part tolerances,... Use it if you`re interested.
I happen to use blocks of 8mm beneath my chassis, Also made a 10mm version because I know most will have 10mm droop blocks laying around :-)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6559359

Let me know of any improvements I might be able to make.
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Old 04-08-2024, 08:22 AM
  #1747  
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Originally Posted by Quante
Added a few more things to thingiverse:
1 Fuel line cutter.
Remember the upstops, TPU was way too stiff so I went back to silicone fuel lines at the dampers for an upstop. No need to discuss if this works, doesnt work, drives awfully,....
If you want to try it, you can at least decently cut the fuel lines the same and at a set length using this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6559367

2. Droop measurement circle:
Used this to setup my droop, nice and consistent; measurment to the bottom side of the wheel hex. I found this easier than measuring on the bottom of the arm. This figures should be around the same as the ones used in the setup sheets (for me they are, but theres printer tolerances, car part tolerances,... Use it if you`re interested.
I happen to use blocks of 8mm beneath my chassis, Also made a 10mm version because I know most will have 10mm droop blocks laying around :-)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6559359

Let me know of any improvements I might be able to make.
I personally did it with old o-rings so I know pieces were exactly the same. Then if needed. shims can then be added to to adjust the upstops. I personally used in a high bite situation when I was transfer my weight over the front to quickly. I it for sure helped but in the sense that the suspension, once it the hit the of travel, now had a nice rubber pad to help dampened to blow from the downstops touch the chassis. Best way to describe it, is the hydro bumpstops on a full sized offroad vehicle. They're used as way to add more support at the end of dampener travel so it won't bottom as hard and upset the vehicle in the process. I was personally to trying to mellow out the right the end of travel and my car would out of sudden snap over steer.
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Old 04-08-2024, 06:49 PM
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Anyone tried cutting to braces on the upper arms? Gave it a try this weekend, cutting all the braces in the front and only the middle brace in the rear, and really transformed the handling characteristics of the car. The car became more lively and more responsive to drive after the cut.


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Old 04-08-2024, 08:45 PM
  #1749  
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I bought my MTC2 used and it had the center braces cut on front and rear arms. Haven't tried the car ever with uncut arms but am in the middle of a full rebuild of the car. I have a spare set of arms new in package and thinking about trying it or not....

What do you mean more lively? More grip? Do you race on asphalt or carpet?
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Old 04-08-2024, 11:12 PM
  #1750  
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Originally Posted by Dan
I bought my MTC2 used and it had the center braces cut on front and rear arms. Haven't tried the car ever with uncut arms but am in the middle of a full rebuild of the car. I have a spare set of arms new in package and thinking about trying it or not....

What do you mean more lively? More grip? Do you race on asphalt or carpet?
Just better driveability. Felt better, I had more confidence, able to make small corrections and the car would respond to it. Before the felt "flat" and I had to wrestle the car on every turn.

This was on asphalt.
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Old 04-09-2024, 10:24 AM
  #1751  
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Originally Posted by disaster999
Just better driveability. Felt better, I had more confidence, able to make small corrections and the car would respond to it. Before the felt "flat" and I had to wrestle the car on every turn.

This was on asphalt.
I personally haven't tried it but the people I know who have done it say similar things. They all did it under medium bite. I did try awsomatix style upper arms and the feel so unreal. I haven't felt a car that balance before and no setup changes were done. Im currently in the process on converting mine to be a mugenmatix during my rebuild.
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Old 04-09-2024, 04:56 PM
  #1752  
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Back when I ran the MTC2, I ran cut upper arms and agree with what you said. Having more upper arm flex definitely gave the car more grip in my experience, and the car also felt more "free" (on asphalt).

I haven't tried cut upper arms on the MTC2r, as I haven't seen a setup sheet using them. My personal guess is that's because the new car has more flex than the old car did (shorter motor mount, different top deck), especially with the optional split decks that everyone seems to be running. Might be worth a try though after hearing your experience
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Old Today, 02:21 AM
  #1753  
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Hello would like to know if MTC2R original arms are the hard version because at manual it states normal or they are the same as MTC2 soft arms, thanks
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Old Today, 03:32 AM
  #1754  
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Originally Posted by Dan
I bought my MTC2 used and it had the center braces cut on front and rear arms. Haven't tried the car ever with uncut arms but am in the middle of a full rebuild of the car. I have a spare set of arms new in package and thinking about trying it or not....

What do you mean more lively? More grip? Do you race on asphalt or carpet?
Not sure what you mean by braces cut on the arms.
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Old Today, 03:49 AM
  #1755  
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Originally Posted by sonny8692
Not sure what you mean by braces cut on the arms.

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