Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Personally I am not a fan of the devided top deck. I find the holes ovalise easy and then you keep losing belt tension and have a banana for a bottom deck. If you like flex just run a full upper deck and use the plastic center bulkhead. This is what I always run and it wins races.

Tpg racer

For the center section where the motor is located, I have the option to use either the alloy motor pod and the alloy motor base or the standard plastic ones... which should I use???

Im running rubber-asphalt.... I know using the standard plastic ones gives flex but I see the ARP version which is made for asphalt uses alloy instead of plastic....

Also, is there a new version of scythe manual available online??? I bought my Scythe used and its upgraded to the 2008 version which to me looks like the ARP but the manual i have with me is the older one....

luic

I donīt like divide the top deck, i only rebaged a litle for more flex, because our tracks have always low grip and sand, always run outdoor-asphalt.

Mikky32, for me the car is more easy to drive, but i think the corner speed is a litle minor, not very important in rain or very low grip conditions, i think in this conditions is best a easy-good control of car.

TPG, for me, the ARP is more fast with center alu, i like this racing car

Drangonfire, the center plastic bulkhead, ŋ you refer to center plastic motor mount? or the part down in bulkheads?

Thanks, Luis C.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

The Center "U" shaped bulkhead that bolts to the lower and upper decks. I have run alloy and it works fine but I have always been able to get more out of the chassis with the plastic part due to the "planted" feel it gives you.

Tpg racer

Are you referring to the motor pod base which connects the lower deck to the upper deck at the motor mount part???

This is the question I'm asking, I have the option to use either the plastic ones or the alloy ones... so which should I use??? There's 3 different parts at the motor section... one is motor plate, motor pod and motor pod base according to the manual...

The motor plate is given as alloy from the standard kit... only the motor pod and the motor pod base is given as plastic standard.... so which would be better to run (the alloy or the plastic) ???

The reason I asked is because the ARP which is built for the asphalt uses alloy instead of the plastic ones.....

Also where can I get the latest TOP Scythe 2008 manual ??? I only have the older version manual...

luic

He is refer to the motor pod base with you say, in plastic for more flex and more planted car, when i mount this part i let the other two in alu, the motor mount is obvius, the other part, in alu,i think it keeps best aligned the center axle.

Sorry for new manual, i donīt know, for proper mount shocks, the Yokomo BD manual are the key.

Greetings, Luis C.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

I could be wrong but I think that it comes with the alloy bits because most racers are used to the bling factor and I'd bet that without that some buyers would not buy. Silly I know but then marketing is'nt allways about whats best. For the manual try a PM to OD, he should be able to point you in the right direction.

I run on low grip asphalt, 17.5 and 13.5, with the alloy part no problem. But if your going to run faster then you may need the extra flex the plastic part provides.

mikky32

I have always used the plastic motor pod base and the car was stable.
After seen your photho's on the web i was intrested if it worked.
Maybe i will buy some extra allu top bulkheads that i can change.
Now i will use the plastic motor pod base.
I love the flex. THe car is stable. a litle bit under steered but i drive than indoor better.
tomorow i put my setup from last year on the car. and saterday i can test the car.
I will let you now how it went.

The car feld today already better than the Xray FK05 that i also drove today.
I only drove 2 5cell pacs and i didn't put my own setup on it but i feld verry good to have a TOP again.
I'm a happy rc driver again.
The Xray FK05 is a good car but the TOP Scythe drives easyer and is more forgiving.

GeorgePravata

iTrader: (171)

I run a Trinity 17.5 with trinity 3800 lipos gear at 90/49 or 90/50 with rubbers tires motors goes as far as 165 degs. I just got some new stuff for my foam car and will be tryin that out This week. I will be running 13.5 with foams Trinity under the hood.

goop

iTrader: (2)

hey Ej got the car and had it built by saturday and practiced all day. i threw a setup on the car and it was awesome from the get go. today we raced and i TQ'd by 3 laps car is awesome cant wait until next weekend.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

That just sums up what I think about the scythe.. Its such an aesome trait I have it in my sig.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Ok a ? on the internal ratio. I bought my car used and never thought to count the pully and diff to see, but the setup sheets show the ratio at 2.2. I'm doing some cleaning and rebuilding and so I counted and came up with 17 teeth on the center pully and 33 for the diffs. Now that works out to 1.94, did something get mixed up here? Mabey a low ratio part with a standard one? What should the teeth count be on each?

Thanks
Chris

Rob Burns

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, there's a low ratio set which makes 1.94:1. From memory standard is 33/15.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Cool I was wondering if that was the issue, thanks.

luic

Thanks Dragonfire, the new internal ratio (2:18), 37/17 from ARP, work very good in the Scythe, too.

Greetings, Luis C.