Dan415ms

Cheers Jimmy.

Dan

Damunn

Here are a few things i have done to my Scythe.

Follow this in conjunction with the manual.

Step 1.

Having filed the chassis, run a bead of thin CA around the edge of the chassis to help prevent delamination of the carbon fibre.

Step 11.

Check the inside of the long diff half for any mismoulding or debris. At least 3 people I know have had a problem where the thrust race has seated incorrectly leading to a diff screw failiure and damage to the diff half. This is a Yokomo moulding issue and nothing to do with TOP.

Step 18.

Tightening the diff screw. Tighten slowly and check for slip. DO NOT tighten up and back off. This method will damage the diff spring. When the diff is in the car and everything is assembled the Scythe has one of the smoothest diffs I have ever run. It runs looser than any other ball diff car if have ever come into contact with. It is so free I keep thinking that something is wrong!

Step 31.

When installing the centre pulley into the car, make sure the screw heads holding the pulleys to the spur are on the right side (imagine you are sitting in the car) this will stop the screw heads from rubbing on the drive belt. You may also have some very small rubber o rings supplied. These are to stop end float on the centre pulley. I used shims instead.

Step 33.

If you are using alloy upper bulkheads you will need shorter screws than those supplied. Also, if you add the optional outdrive sleeves you will need to shorten the ball stud that screws into the upper bulkhead.

Step 37.

Make sure you locktite the steering post to the ackerman plate.

Step 39.

Pay close attention to the how the ackerman plate fits onto the chassis. The ackerman plate may have 2 or 3 sets of holes to choose from. Check you setup sheet to see which holes are used.

Step 47.

When installing the hub carriers onto the front of the car, make sure that the hub marked left is actually on the left and vice versa (I didn't get this wrong, but 2 of my friends who should know better did!). Also install shims between the hub and the wishbone as there is some play present.

Step 56.

Shock assembly. Download any Yokomo SSG or CGM manual to find out how to build the shocks properly. I start with a shock length of 62.5mm. To acheive this, you will need to unscrew the short ball end about 2 threads. Also screw the collar all the way to the top of the body and then make a vertical mark on the collar (I use a file) in the same place on all 4 shocks, that way you can put half a turn of ride height on easily, on all corners of the car without having to use gauges.

Step 65.

Installing the shocks. The screws that hold the shocks onto the shock tower are not really long enough. I installed mine in this sequence:- Screw/shock tower/3mm plain nut/medium Yokomo shock mounting ball/3mm nylock nut.

Step 66.

I find that the tensioner is a bit naff, and at the wrong height. I added 2x 3mm plain nuts under the brass thing and the belt now rubs on the bearing.

Other bits I have fitted, based on previous racing experiences.

Yokomo SD001W wide front bumper.

This includes 2 little plastic wings that attach to the end of a wider than standard bumper. This will help prevent front knuckle and hub failiures.

Jet CYL-06. Alloy front knuckle arms.

Main reason for this is to stop tearing the screw out of the bottom of the knuckle arm. Some people find the lower screw works loose with left/right steering action.

Jet CYL-24. Alloy 4 degree front C hubs.

Standard kit ones don't survive a lot of board bashing.

Diff outdrive sleeves.

If you fit these, note that they are only meant to fit one way! There is a taper inside and they don't click onto the groove on the outdrive. Once installed they won't slide off. Make sure that your upper ball link studs don't rub on them.


I hope this helps fellow Scythe racers,

regards,

Damunn.

Dan415ms

Thanks Damunn, I did wonder what those little rubber o-rings were for and also had just been thinking of the play on the centre pulley.

razzor

What is the opinion of racers running the TOP on tar/asphalt surfaces ?
Most of what ive read is being run on carpet.

jimmy..maddison

the little rubber o-rings are to hold the motor screws in so when you un-bolt the motor the screws dont fall out

note the little recess on the motor plate where the motor sits

the reason the car has not been run on asphalt much yet as its winter and very cold and wet weather

thanks jimmy

Ericjooopuntnl

Tony,

I've got the gold-version, but soon also the Red!!. I drove the car with plastic bulkheads but alloy on top and also the alloy motorpod. Will test now plastic all over and see how the car handles than.

greetz,

Eric

Rod M

iTrader: (4)

down under we are only running on Tar/asphalt, (its a weapon)

check out Damien Zarb's setup from the TOP download section,

DZ

iTrader: (4)

I've been runing the car in Australia on Ashplat for six months now.
I've had some great success with the car.

I've been running the spool of late, the car still has heaps of steering even with the spool

I'm very happy with the car.

Cheers
Damien

Ali Graham

Once BRCA nationals get under way next April I should think more success will come the Scythe's way (I hope!) I also hope to brave the weather and do some outdoor testing soon

Wing Chun

iTrader: (12)

Well I got the chance to sneak a peak at Aaron's (Zacabrady's) New work of art and I must say it is a peice of artwork. Not only did he take 2 second's off his personal best time at Meakin park he did a good job of not letting anyone else see what weapon he was using.
I managed to get in a quick photo over his shoulder but i was caight out. I will never make a 007 will I. Ha Ha

Great car guy's. I am very impressed with the car.Very well made and I am a Tamiya man but who know's after seeing what this car can do.
Addam smith

Dan415ms

There will be quite a few running at the Much More UK GP in June Ali!

Dan

Ali Graham

Just to let you guys know, I've now managed to move the servo into the forward position, meaning there is more room for your electronics between the servo and motor. To do this, you need to make a steering link yourself. You could use one of the roll bar turnbuckles, but as I want to use mine, I cut the head off a 3x16 screw and attached two ballcups. The overall length of the link is now 36mm, and this length cannot be achieved with the standard steering link turnbuckle.
HTH
Ali

Dan415ms

Can you post a pic Ali?

jimmy..maddison

all you have to do is dremal the akerman plate a little so the servo doesnt catch on the plate and like my little freind says make a smaller link

thanks jimmy

Ali Graham

I'll sort a pic out Dan.


Your gonna have the authorities round soon, especially if you keep talking about my "Little Boy" tyre sander and Ride "Cockpuller" shock pumps