It odesnt. Having raced all Tamiya's modern f1 models I would say the trf103 is clearly the best TCS option and is reasonably compattive outdoors against other brands.

If you dont plan on racing TCS you would be better off with a current generation car from a different brand.

I agree 100% that the 103 is the best Tamiya offering, but I would suggest the car is very competitive with anything else IF you add the Exotek upper arms and the 1/4" axle conversion to run a gear diff.

For that matter, Simon Lauter almost won the last ETS series with a stock car.

Couple of questions....
Having an issue finding T plates (4004100) is there an after market option?
Anyone still running T bar set ups?. They do break easy & may put extra stress on the rear plate as well?
Thanks

I race on high grip black carpet and go faster with T plates. Unfortunately they are fragile which is why I stopped running them. I have not found any aftermarket options. I bought a couple from RCMart a couple of months ago.

I was faster with link setup on black carpet. Top 3 F1 cars at Tamiya TCS nationals in 2019 were TRF103 with link setup on black carpet.

imo link is faster but your driving style is unknown for me thats why it could be that this subjective opinion is wrong in your case... but anyway you can ask RebellionRC, Daniels offer all other parts and maybe he also offer the t plate but forgot to list it

I always run t bars outside, and my car has been good almost every where. I was running it on carpet too, but the links seemed to require less chasing of the setup. As traction fluctuates, especially at bigger events, you have to be on top of the setup. It can be ridiculously fast when it's right, but I'm starting to think links will be 95% of the performance with way less hassles. I have switched to links on carpet.

Would you share your black carpet setup please?

Thanks guys for your feed back🙂

TCS tires aka pit 571 572 aka CRC
Glue front outer sidewall, glue inside as well if traction is up

Ride ht 4mm fr 4mm rr
width fr usually around 190 mm ,narrow up for more reaction and turn in
rear usually around 188 mm if the car doesn't rotate, narrow rear, if it needs to slide a little wider, though it will be more stable, more "slip angle" than slide.

optional aluminum knuckles, inline kingpin, second hole from back for ballstud, 1.5 mm spacer
tamiya servo saver, 2mm spacer under ball stud, full spacers for servo mount

1.5 camber, 9 caster - page 21 in manual for insert settings - sometimes I have used the BB13 insert with the notches facing out to the tires to remove camber, closer to 1 or 0.5*. Caster is probably like 10*
silver front spring (soft)

front droop approx. 1mm more if the car stalls mid corner, go to 0.5 to help flatten car
kingpin spacers will be different if you use the plastic knuckle vs. aluminum. The main thing is adding total spacers on the kingpin removes droop, remove spacers will add droop. Swapping them above or below knuckle changes ride height. Swapping them above or below the upper arm changes camber gain and roll center. Less spacers above arm = more camber gain, higher roll center. more spacer above lower roll center, less camber gain. Flatter arm is usually better for high traction, less reaction. More arm angle, more reaction. I like one spacer on top of arm in most cases, unless track is really tight or traction is mediocre.

No spacers on inner pivots of upper arms. You can add 0.5 or 1mm to rear upper pivot to reduce some traction roll, but this kills mid corner steering. Adding spacers to both inner pivots is the same as flattening the arm, lowers roll center and reduces camber gain.

toe -2 each side

tamiya hard grease on kingpin

rear
center shock 30 wt oil 3 hole
long shock extension approx. 83 mm
3mm spacer front of shock, 2mm rear
Red mini car spring, but change per track. I like to start soft, great advice given to me " stiffen the spring until the car slows down in the chicane" . The stiffer you go on the spring, the more the front tire gets heated - this can fade fronts late in race for a big push.
Links in outer holes. 0.5 spacer under link balls if you need to get the car out of the track.
Copper/pinkish side spring. Set side spring just touching. Add 1/2 to 1 turn preload to make car more stable, back spring off pod 1/2 to 1 turn to add rotation/reaction
Start with 7k in tubes.
Ball diff with tamiya pink VG grease (tamiya 42170) or other thick grease and steel axle, fairly tight. Use Tamiya 54424 diff pegs and a Tamiya spur to make a spool for super high traction. I use the steel axle unless traction is really high. This is all TCS stuff, if you are not racing TCS, just get the Exotek 1/4" axle conversion and use an Xray gear diff or any 1/4" spool.
Short wheelbase most of the time, if the car gets too hard to drive go long

90/30 gears
Tamiya 2017 body and wings or Ferrari F60 body and wings (TCS)

Battery long way on chassis. Push forward as traction comes up to kill traction roll. Switch to transverse if the track is very twisty/short

14g lead each side of car next to posts for upper deck

Holy crap, Rob! Now I just need you to drive it for me!
That's the most complete setup info I've seen.

Thank you much robk !

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...859adcbb6.jpeg
Looking for some help identifying this 1 piece motor housing on a 103 I’m thinking about selling. Any info? Thanks in advance!

Looks like the yeah racing 1pice f103 motor mount. Is their a pin on the bottom with a hinged t-bat?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d364f6edf7.jpg
I don’t think so. Does this look like a stock chassis? I’m not familiar with the rear piece with the angle upward.