TLR 22T 3.0 Stadium Truck Race Kit Thread!
#511
#512
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
Assuming question is for stiffizel standup rear tower, in which case, likely yes. Would have to confirm by either checking 3.0 and 4.0 manuals or if someone has actual parts to check.
However, if referring to 4.0 laydown rear shock tower that flips around with four screws and lets you mounts rear shocks either in front of or behind rear arms, have to convert over to full 4.0 laydown transmission along with shorter rear shock body and shock shafts (and would need to mod the 3.0 body or get a 4.0 body, and drill rear arms or get newer 4.0 rear arms to mount shocks in forward position).
#513
[QUOTE=Frank Root;14990047]Personally, I prefer the handling of TLR springs. I think they have more grip and make my truck feel more "in the track". I run blue front and yellow rears.
are they low frequency?
are they low frequency?
#515
Tried the stiffizel arms — pretty dang good and a cheap upgrade for the 3.0. Truck feels more reactive, and does land a little more composed.
Was a little skeptical I could tell the difference — I had a hard time noticing much of a difference on my AE buggy with hard arms, but I think there is more flex in general on the truck that it’s easier to notice. I likey!
Was a little skeptical I could tell the difference — I had a hard time noticing much of a difference on my AE buggy with hard arms, but I think there is more flex in general on the truck that it’s easier to notice. I likey!
#516
Tech Addict
#517
With the shock tower he is using you wouldn't be able to do it without doing the same mods that you would have to use with the 3.0 shocks. His video even has them on the back.
#518
Tech Addict
I have my shocks in front. I flipped the shock mounts around so the long side is on the front of the tower. Flipped my arms around. Then put 5 mm of spacers to bring them more forward on the upper mount. The geometry is pretty good. Going to order some 4.0 arms which will bring back the lower arm mount a little more and it should be perfect. Think I am actually going to drill the front of an extra set of 3.0 arms in front and see how that works as well.
#519
https://youtu.be/gDadfh0ZdBM?t=182
Last edited by RazorRC; 01-10-2018 at 10:37 PM.
#520
Do you even own a 22T 3.0? So far you're 0/3. Literally most of your posts are just plain wrong. Think beyond your kneejerk reaction to everything, and you might actually see the forest for the trees.
https://youtu.be/gDadfh0ZdBM?t=182
https://youtu.be/gDadfh0ZdBM?t=182
Last edited by faqcya; 01-11-2018 at 01:37 AM.
#521
I'm pretty sure you haven't provided any useful information, whereas I have provided quite a bit. Maybe you've learned something though.
No, you're wrong because you're just wrong. It's that simple. You honestly question people about irrelevant points that if you took a step back and asked yourself why you are asking these questions, would realize they're actually quite obvious.
Like I did a review of the Spektrum DX5C and you asked why anyone racing would need more than 2 channels. They don't, but that's not the point. If you're going to sell a $500 race radio, you better be sure it has more than 2 channels, else it's going to be perceived as inferior to a $100 radio that does 4 channels.
Your username doesn't help either, and assuming it's another way to spell "**** you", is kind of indicative of your thought process.
There are not very many people in the world that can notice a small 0.6% change. Maybe you can. And because I doubt it and you can't provide proof then I must be wrong?
Like I did a review of the Spektrum DX5C and you asked why anyone racing would need more than 2 channels. They don't, but that's not the point. If you're going to sell a $500 race radio, you better be sure it has more than 2 channels, else it's going to be perceived as inferior to a $100 radio that does 4 channels.
Your username doesn't help either, and assuming it's another way to spell "**** you", is kind of indicative of your thought process.
#522
To add more helpful information, this is what I plan to do for the 3.0->4.0
1. Put on rear shocks and shock tower. 4.0 shock tower has body mounts for the 4.0 body.
2. Stiffizel arms
3. 4.0 body. This has the clearance for forward mounted shocks.
4. Remove the rear wing mount since you don't need it anymore.
5. Move rear shocks to front of arms.
Does that explain the whole thing? You can't (properly) do 5. until you do 4. You can't do 4 until you do 3. You can't do 3 until you do 1. That's why I did 1, and why you still see the shocks on the rear of the arm.
Expand your mind.
1. Put on rear shocks and shock tower. 4.0 shock tower has body mounts for the 4.0 body.
2. Stiffizel arms
3. 4.0 body. This has the clearance for forward mounted shocks.
4. Remove the rear wing mount since you don't need it anymore.
5. Move rear shocks to front of arms.
Does that explain the whole thing? You can't (properly) do 5. until you do 4. You can't do 4 until you do 3. You can't do 3 until you do 1. That's why I did 1, and why you still see the shocks on the rear of the arm.
Expand your mind.
#523
I'm pretty sure you haven't provided any useful information, whereas I have provided quite a bit. Maybe you've learned something though.
No, you're wrong because you're just wrong. It's that simple. You honestly question people about irrelevant points that if you took a step back and asked yourself why you are asking these questions, would realize they're actually quite obvious.
Like I did a review of the Spektrum DX5C and you asked why anyone racing would need more than 2 channels. They don't, but that's not the point. If you're going to sell a $500 race radio, you better be sure it has more than 2 channels, else it's going to be perceived as inferior to a $100 radio that does 4 channels.
Your username doesn't help either, and assuming it's another way to spell "**** you", is kind of indicative of your thought process.
No, you're wrong because you're just wrong. It's that simple. You honestly question people about irrelevant points that if you took a step back and asked yourself why you are asking these questions, would realize they're actually quite obvious.
Like I did a review of the Spektrum DX5C and you asked why anyone racing would need more than 2 channels. They don't, but that's not the point. If you're going to sell a $500 race radio, you better be sure it has more than 2 channels, else it's going to be perceived as inferior to a $100 radio that does 4 channels.
Your username doesn't help either, and assuming it's another way to spell "**** you", is kind of indicative of your thought process.
#524
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
So.... I’ve been racing my 3.0 ST off and on since it was first released and it’s been a fun truck to race along with either my 2wd or 4wd buggy.
4.0 comes out about a year later and I calculate the conversion cost and decide to just get the new kit. Raced it a couple times and trying to get truck class some momentum locally (of late affectionately known as “The Not Buggy Class”).
So I let my friend race the 4.0 with a 7.5 motor while I race the 3.0 with an older 13.5 motor. There’s a spare 4.0 laydown in my backup 3.0SR buggy so I rob it for my truck. Get the new shock tower and convert to shorter rear shocks (in rear position since our track hasn’t gotten the newer stiffer rear arms yet). Put a new Spec-R 13.5 motor in it and the combo just makes me feel like a better driver, a little more comfortable and connected with the car, reacting instinctively instead of overthinking.
FYI, I’m normally a middle/back of pack guy when I race but I actually got a 2nd place last night (admittedly some of the regular and faster truck guys weren’t racing, but we did have 9 in the class, usual is 4-6). My lap times are about the same as I was getting with my 4.0 and 7.5, and I know the car has plenty more potential, the limiting factor being the driver.
So if you stuck around to the end of this long story, the takeaway is... if you choose not to or just can’t swing the 4.0T but can convert your 3.0 truck with standup to the 4.0 laydown, I think you’ll be quite pleased with the results. We race on med/high traction dirt/clay.
I did get a 4.0 body to race with but you can make a 3.0 body fit if willing to make some mods where the tower and body mounts are. Even more if you want to mount the rear shocks in front of the rear arms.
4.0 comes out about a year later and I calculate the conversion cost and decide to just get the new kit. Raced it a couple times and trying to get truck class some momentum locally (of late affectionately known as “The Not Buggy Class”).
So I let my friend race the 4.0 with a 7.5 motor while I race the 3.0 with an older 13.5 motor. There’s a spare 4.0 laydown in my backup 3.0SR buggy so I rob it for my truck. Get the new shock tower and convert to shorter rear shocks (in rear position since our track hasn’t gotten the newer stiffer rear arms yet). Put a new Spec-R 13.5 motor in it and the combo just makes me feel like a better driver, a little more comfortable and connected with the car, reacting instinctively instead of overthinking.
FYI, I’m normally a middle/back of pack guy when I race but I actually got a 2nd place last night (admittedly some of the regular and faster truck guys weren’t racing, but we did have 9 in the class, usual is 4-6). My lap times are about the same as I was getting with my 4.0 and 7.5, and I know the car has plenty more potential, the limiting factor being the driver.
So if you stuck around to the end of this long story, the takeaway is... if you choose not to or just can’t swing the 4.0T but can convert your 3.0 truck with standup to the 4.0 laydown, I think you’ll be quite pleased with the results. We race on med/high traction dirt/clay.
I did get a 4.0 body to race with but you can make a 3.0 body fit if willing to make some mods where the tower and body mounts are. Even more if you want to mount the rear shocks in front of the rear arms.
#525
Congratulations on your 2nd place finish I bet that felt good.