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Old 01-11-2018, 05:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
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Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks
Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-12-2017, 08:55 AM
  #1291  
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Anyone else experience the extremely short lifespan of the EB48.4's 13x19x4mm inner hub bearings? Seldom, if ever, can you get more than 1 or 2 races without this bearing feeling very notchy and unsmooth. I kept a tube of replacement bearings, with a regiment of checking them often. Failure to do so would inevitably lead to an ill-behaving car or a melted plastic hub due to bearing failure (lockup).
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:46 AM
  #1292  
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Originally Posted by vwduud
Anyone else experience the extremely short lifespan of the EB48.4's 13x19x4mm inner hub bearings? Seldom, if ever, can you get more than 1 or 2 races without this bearing feeling very notchy and unsmooth. I kept a tube of replacement bearings, with a regiment of checking them often. Failure to do so would inevitably lead to an ill-behaving car or a melted plastic hub due to bearing failure (lockup).
Negative, Been running them since first built in January. Check them periodically due to your concerns previously, but always seem fine.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:56 AM
  #1293  
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Originally Posted by vwduud
Anyone else experience the extremely short lifespan of the EB48.4's 13x19x4mm inner hub bearings? Seldom, if ever, can you get more than 1 or 2 races without this bearing feeling very notchy and unsmooth. I kept a tube of replacement bearings, with a regiment of checking them often. Failure to do so would inevitably lead to an ill-behaving car or a melted plastic hub due to bearing failure (lockup).
On my kit bearings for my .3 and .4 and sct.
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Old 09-12-2017, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ezlight
EZ E,

Thank you my friend. I have always been a 10th scaler, thus really will be my first true 8th scale. I guess you could call 4wd SCT 8th scale. Anyhow will be exciting as I really will be able to take advantage of our local 8th scale track.
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:21 PM
  #1295  
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Default what means ROLL?

Please help. I am trying to learn more about set up. In the TLR 8ight 3.0 Tuning Tips, it says in the section front camber link: "the longer front link will keep the buggy flatter, with less ROLL...Short camber link will ROLL more.
What do they mean by the word ROLL?
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:23 PM
  #1296  
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Originally Posted by Kaputttroniker
Please help. I am trying to learn more about set up. In the TLR 8ight 3.0 Tuning Tips, it says in the section front camber link: "the longer front link will keep the buggy flatter, with less ROLL...Short camber link will ROLL more.
What do they mean by the word ROLL?
Your first issue is your trying to learn something from TLR!!

Seriously though, I've for some reason liked shorter link up front, and longer in rear, or shorter all around.
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaputttroniker
Please help. I am trying to learn more about set up. In the TLR 8ight 3.0 Tuning Tips, it says in the section front camber link: "the longer front link will keep the buggy flatter, with less ROLL...Short camber link will ROLL more.
What do they mean by the word ROLL?
You'll get 2 types of answers:

1.) seat of the pants, opinions of what "ROLL" is (will greatly vary from racer to racer and chassis to chassis)

2.) information on suspension theory that requires a little more education to further understand what is called the "Roll Center" and how the adjustments (camber link locations, hinge pin locations and center of gravity) affect it.

For number 2, here are a few links worth looking at for a start:

Roll Center Understood

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWdRQaz_Xq8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44AlYI6lSX4

RC Crew Chief
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaputttroniker
Please help. I am trying to learn more about set up. In the TLR 8ight 3.0 Tuning Tips, it says in the section front camber link: "the longer front link will keep the buggy flatter, with less ROLL...Short camber link will ROLL more.
What do they mean by the word ROLL?
Here's the way you teach roll to beginners...

Picture an antenna tube sticking up from the center of your car directly above your front diff. As you go through a turn, you'll see the tube lean. The further it leans, the more your car is rolling.

So what that means to you:
As you roll you build traction, until you get to a point where you roll over too far. Then you lift weight over the inside wheels and grip goes bye bye.

The same holds true for the rear of the car as well.
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Old 09-12-2017, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by vwduud
Anyone else experience the extremely short lifespan of the EB48.4's 13x19x4mm inner hub bearings? Seldom, if ever, can you get more than 1 or 2 races without this bearing feeling very notchy and unsmooth. I kept a tube of replacement bearings, with a regiment of checking them often. Failure to do so would inevitably lead to an ill-behaving car or a melted plastic hub due to bearing failure (lockup).
I get more than a couple of races on 'em, but they do get gritty before all other bearings on the buggy/truggy. I've been replacing them once a month. I will say that I do put in quite a bit of track time which could contribute to the wear I'm seeing. I'd like to see them upgrade to the 15x21x4, like the new .4 cva's, across the board for buggys/truggys.
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HK SBR
I get more than a couple of races on 'em, but they do get gritty before all other bearings on the buggy/truggy. I've been replacing them once a month. I will say that I do put in quite a bit of track time which could contribute to the wear I'm seeing. I'd like to see them upgrade to the 15x21x4, like the new .4 cva's, across the board for buggys/truggys.
I've had to replace 1 that felt not so good since I got it. I've been running it roughly every week since it first came out, and on rough and blown out tracks with lots of dust. They are expected to need replacing faster than the bearings from the CVDs, because the geometry of more leverage against the bearing to put the joint in the same place makes this happen. Folks shouldn't be going through them every race day though without something else being wrong.
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaputttroniker
Please help. I am trying to learn more about set up. In the TLR 8ight 3.0 Tuning Tips, it says in the section front camber link: "the longer front link will keep the buggy flatter, with less ROLL...Short camber link will ROLL more.
What do they mean by the word ROLL?
THE BIBLE
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Old 09-17-2017, 04:24 PM
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+1
Good info and excellent place to start learning process. Read all the setup guides you can. I find that each one seems to offer some insight that covers something I didn't know, had forgot about or just explained it in a way that made the light come on about the subject.
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:00 PM
  #1303  
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Originally Posted by justpoet
I've had to replace 1 that felt not so good since I got it. I've been running it roughly every week since it first came out, and on rough and blown out tracks with lots of dust. They are expected to need replacing faster than the bearings from the CVDs, because the geometry of more leverage against the bearing to put the joint in the same place makes this happen. Folks shouldn't be going through them every race day though without something else being wrong.
Apparently, my kit is one of the new ones from the different manufacturers, don't have the bearing issues, but have a major other issue. The pins in the drive shaft pop out. 2 packs in on a brand new car, and the driveshaft pin decided it didn't want to stay. Emailed them about it, waiting to see what's up. It happened after downsiding a small jump so no crash involved.
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:47 PM
  #1304  
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once in a while it happens. Try a mugen pin, might be tighter tolerance.
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Apparently, my kit is one of the new ones from the different manufacturers, don't have the bearing issues, but have a major other issue. The pins in the drive shaft pop out. 2 packs in on a brand new car, and the driveshaft pin decided it didn't want to stay. Emailed them about it, waiting to see what's up. It happened after downsiding a small jump so no crash involved.
Check the end of the shaft to see if there is a hairline crack there. If so, nothing will stay. If not, push the pin back in with some red locktite and it should be fine. I'm sure Tekno will get it straightened out for you quickly, especially if it was a cracking issue.
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