For me it depends on the track and how much grip it has that determines if I run the screw or not. Our indoor clay is high grip and running without it gets to be a handful. Has plenty of steering with it in. Our local outdoor is on the slick side and can use all the steering I can get, it comes out.

I can't imagine that the .4 is that much different than the .3 in this regard. I have the .4 steering setup and have always ran with the stop screw/washers as the manual states. It has never been a complaint for me, that I didn't have enough steering.

The track I run on is hard pack with tons of loose slippery dirt on top. The only times I can't turn the corner sharp enough is when I make mistakes on the controls.

The rear end and gearing of the .3 is different enough that I would think there would be a noticeable difference in steering. Regardless, I'm glad it works for you. But Obviously there is a reason the other drivers I spoke to, highly sponsored, team Tekno drivers, are running without them.

I just wanted to see if most people use them or not. Kinda like the Rear/center braces.

Yeah if you look at Lutz and Bornhorst setups they both have them removed. And only run front brace.

As far as bump stops, I am running them, and have no issue at all with turn in. I'm also not running the box stock setup.

Also, as far as the braces. The average joe racer will not notice the difference between running all 3, and only running the front. I personally run all braces.

this is from tekno's site

Steering Limiters
Yes, we know people like lots of steering. Our pro drivers tell us this all the time. Something to keep in mind though about steering...

The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first, we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.

So if you're not using the built-in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using four steering limiter washers on the EB/NB/SC, and the results have been impressive. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.

steering-limiter-2
Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:

Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure
Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly, and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.

Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.

There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).

Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.

also to reference Joe's and Lutz's setups they don't use washers but i bet the stop screws are still there....just saying

There is a difference you can feel when the center and rear braces are off. Feels wild and rotates more. Kinda feels like its using the 48.3 ackerman plate.

I put all braces back on because it feels safer. Easier to drive. The pros run them without the two braces probably to get that quicker rotation. Average Joes will likely keep them on unless you like aggressive steering.

For me, it's the opposite. With the center and rear brace removed, the buggy feels more planted an it takes a little more effort to break the rear end loose.

same for me

Removing the rear brace definitely helps plant the rear end of the truck. And it is noticeable to just about anyone in back to back comparisons. I very seldom run with the rear or center brace on anymore.

Is it pointless at this point to purchase a used .3 ?

If you are on a budget, the .3 is still pretty capable. I'll be running one this summer as our $$$ went into getting my son a .4 (he kicks the tar out of me anyway). If you have the dough, the .4 is pretty amazing though.

.3 is still a very good buggy. Get the .4 ackerman plate and steering bellcrank and you are set. Emulsion shock cap option is good, but in most conditions vented is better. Universal driveshafts are smooth with little to no maintenance required, but cvd has more drag which results to added traction. You'll be able to push a bit harder and set the pace. The .3 is not outdated. Likely just as good with the updated .4 steering.

which conditions are you seeing that the vented is better than emulsion?

What weight Associated shock oil is everyone using that's closest to stock? I'm pretty happy with the stock weights, but I'm going to need to do some shock maintenance soon. I'd like to stick with Associated if I can just because it's so widely available, even locally. If the charts I'm looking at are right, looks like 42.5 (538cst) in the front and 37.5 (463cst) in the rear would be about right.