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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread

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Old 01-11-2018, 05:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
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Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks
Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-30-2017, 06:57 PM
  #946  
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Just finished my .4 build and tested it after hours at our 1/10th scale track as the outdoor tracks are not open here yet. I love this buggy but I have one area that has me a little concerned. The center diff bearings seem to have a bit more play in the mounts than I would like to see. The entire center diff can move side and fore and aft. Not enough to lose pinion to spur engagement but enough that I am concerned about prematurely wearing out the spur gear. Has anyone else noticed this on theirs and if so is it holding up fine? I also bought the aluminum rear diff mount upgrade which probably doesnt have a negative or positive effect on the play as both mounts have the same amount, but I thiught it might be worth mentioning.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:04 PM
  #947  
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Originally Posted by Var1000
Just finished my .4 build and tested it after hours at our 1/10th scale track as the outdoor tracks are not open here yet. I love this buggy but I have one area that has me a little concerned. The center diff bearings seem to have a bit more play in the mounts than I would like to see. The entire center diff can move side and fore and aft. Not enough to lose pinion to spur engagement but enough that I am concerned about prematurely wearing out the spur gear. Has anyone else noticed this on theirs and if so is it holding up fine? I also bought the aluminum rear diff mount upgrade which probably doesnt have a negative or positive effect on the play as both mounts have the same amount, but I thiught it might be worth mentioning.
Make sure the plastic top piece is completely seated on the top of the two motor mount halves.I like to put it all together (center assembly) before I mount it to the chassis. The plastic piece kinda has inserts where the mount halves sit. When both halves are seated into the top cap the diff won't gave play.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:32 PM
  #948  
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+1
You definitely need to completely assemble the diff into the diff mount. It should spin freely and hold firmly. Then install onto the chassis.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:55 PM
  #949  
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Make sure that the braces are oriented the correct way as well. I noticed that they are the same part number but they are mirror images of each other. You need to make sure that the ridges on the mount are pointed inwards.

I made the mistake on my SL when first putting it together and had a lot of slop like you are describing. Once I discovered the mistake and corrected it the slop was gone.
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:08 PM
  #950  
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What bearings do you guys like to use for your tekno vehicles? I like the tekno bearings but they are more expensive that avid or J&T bearing company. Has anybody used avid or J&T? I have only used tekno. Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1
What bearings do you guys like to use for your tekno vehicles? I like the tekno bearings but they are more expensive that avid or J&T bearing company. Has anybody used avid or J&T? I have only used tekno. Thanks in advance!
Stock or Avid works for me. I have a few J&T bearings to test also, but haven't put them in yet.
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Old 05-01-2017, 09:31 PM
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Ok guys i got a little extra cash on hand to buy some spare parts. What parts should i have on hand that are most likely to break first?
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:44 PM
  #953  
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inner hinge pins, shock shafts, arms. arms just in case, shafts and hingepins they bend pretty easy
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:03 AM
  #954  
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Originally Posted by Derrick87
Ok guys i got a little extra cash on hand to buy some spare parts. What parts should i have on hand that are most likely to break first?
I'm curious about this as well. Anyone else got any other suggestions other than what dabear mentioned just above?

Unrelated funny story: Took the buggy out to the track for the first time this past weekend. Did some basic cleaning afterwards, but wanted to tidy it up a bit more last night. I removed the front shocks, cleaned them up, then reassembled. Got to the right front shock and could not get the screw that goes into the bottom of the shock shaft in to save my life. I kid you not I messed around with it for 30+ minutes. Was convinced I had either the wrong screw (it was a different color than the other one on the other side after all) or that something was funky with the mounting hole in the a-arm.

Convinced I somehow had the wrong screw, I broke out the manual to find the correct part number. But lo and behold, turns out the right front screw is left-hand threaded. Since I bought the buggy from someone already assembled, I suppose this is one of those times (of many probably) where having actually built it from scratch would have come in handy. Legitimately curious why they would do that though. Any ideas?

Had a good laugh at myself and promptly got it reassembled. Might get some practice time in at the track tonight if things dry up well enough today, so I've got that going for me, which is nice.
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:08 AM
  #955  
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Originally Posted by Stiggosaurus
Legitimately curious why they would do that though. Any ideas?
It's supposed to help prevent it from un-threading from the movement of the shock. I never had an issue with the original all RH threaded ones though.
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:40 AM
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Agreed, but add boots. Shock shafts, shock boots, inner hinge pins, and arms is a solid list for basic backups.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:00 AM
  #957  
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Yea the basics parts the guys mentioned are key,but the list can get very long if you are racing. Just keep building your stock pile of parts. But solely depends on your racing,i like to be prepared. Gets expensive lol
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:06 AM
  #958  
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
It's supposed to help prevent it from un-threading from the movement of the shock. I never had an issue with the original all RH threaded ones though.
Correct. This is commonly seen across all 1/8th buggies, more noticeable in nitro, with longer main events (30 minutes to an hour). The shock, on that side, due to the rotation of the arm when the suspension is compressed, will unscrew a standard threaded screw. Some manufacturers don't even use a screw. Instead they use a pin that is held in place with a set screw that can't back out (Kyosho and I believe AE).

A reverse threaded screw solves this problem.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:46 AM
  #959  
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Battery straps....mine lasted about 2 months.
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Old 05-02-2017, 08:22 AM
  #960  
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Originally Posted by Flippin 416
Battery straps....mine lasted about 2 months.
Did they start to frey or break. I pull mine tight but not super tight
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