billdelong

iTrader: (33)

So the general observation with all the EB410's on the track is that they all seem to have the rear inside tire lift in the chicane's and this problem is mitigated with thicker fluid, however going too thick tends to cause the car to over rotate and get a bit twitchy. Some drivers can handle it just fine and prefer to have the extra steering response, one guy is running a B64 slipper and he loves it, though his fastest lap of the day was a 21.0.... it all comes down to driver preference, I don't think I'm skilled enough to handle the extra rotation.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

when you say thicker any particular part of the vehicle they are running thicker oil (thicker front, thicker rear, etc).

Wonder if playing with the other sway bar options could help in that regards, heck, maybe even stiffer springs beyond what we currently have? (say, run fronts on rears?)

ezlight

Have you by chance played with front sway bars to reduce the rear wheel lift? Or stiffer front springs?

Jakesterama

iTrader: (68)

Raceform just announced they poly shock towers. Looks interesting on paper, so I went to order a set. They want $10 in shipping! Small padded envelope, $10, why do companies still do this? F that, I'll let someone else be their guinea pig.

ezlight

Coming soon to FierceRC...Be patient, FastPete (aka FierceRC Pete on bookface) has us covered.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

The only 3 things I focused on this week was tires, shock fluid and center diff fluid.... the changes I spoke of before were focused merely on the center diff fluid... I didn't reference the first qualifier and the Main because my standard deviation for those rounds were too far off to provide any meaningful data input.

I ran thicker shock fluid in the first round plus a set of worn tires that pushed like crazy, didn't like the way the car handled the jumps so I went back to Matt's shock setup.

They don't make a thicker sway bar for the front, (currently running 1.4mm) so I might have to custom bend a 1.7mm bar, been meaning place another order from Tekno anyway.

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

I can get a 3mm sheet of Lexan at home depot. Ive already got all kinds of ideas

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

To reduce the inside rear lifting I would try a thinner swaybar in the rear. You can also try a lower roll center, if you're on the kit setup of 2C with two washers on the hub try taking out the washers. Or for a big difference, try going to 2B with no washers on the hub and 6 on the inner camber plate. The shorter link will help the car accelerate well with the roll center being so low.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

Much appreciated, I've got a 4 day race weekend coming up this week and the 1/10 turf track will be open for practice the whole time, so I plan to take full advantage of the time between rounds to get LOTS of practice on the turf and will try these suggestions, can't wait to burn some rubber!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

In general are you guys running long rear links on carpet? I tried some shorter links and liked how well it squared up, but curious if am approaching this incorrectly or there is a better way to achieve what I want, which is to free up the rear end just a bit more.

I also dont' run a front sway bar currently, would adding that help in regards as to the inside rear wheel lifting?


If all goes well, managed to snag another one

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

This is kind of an odd question, but because I have seen reports of the shock cap bleeder holes stripping easily, would it possibly help if I drilled the bleeder holes with a 1.5mm drill bit instead of the recommended 1.6mm bit? I figure perhaps the extra material will give it a tighter fit?

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

One thing we learned after the IOCC race in Vegas was that carpet setups can vary greatly depending on the types of turns on the track, low speed, high speed, tight 180's, long sweepers, etc. We did a lot of testing at Ricochet RC in preparation for the IOCC race but the layouts were so different that we couldn't carry over a lot of the setup info we got from Ricochet to IOCC. IOCC had long sweeping high speed turns with only one 180 I think. In contrast Ricochet is almost all 180's with only one fast chicane.

At Ricochet we generally all liked short links front and rear, low roll centers, stood up shocks, soft rear springs and light oil, stiff front springs and heavy oil, med to heavy front swaybar, and light or no rear swaybar.

At IOCC they went to longer links front and rear, slightly higher roll centers in the rear, laid the shocks down front and rear, heavy springs/oil front and rear, and heavy swaybars front and rear.

If you look at Matt Wolters two setup sheets you can see the changes he made to his car for each track.


Ok, so as far as what seems to work on carpet tracks in general, here's my thoughts.
-Less rear toe. Helps free up the rear end and since there's so much traction you don't really need it to keep the rear locked in on power.
-Front sway bar. Really helps keep the front end flat into turns and can stop the front from collapsing and causing the rear inside to lift up. You can go too stiff so it's best to see what works for you as far as how stiff to go.
-Stiff front shocks. Same reasons as the sway bar. As long as your car can still land jumps well stiffer seems better.
-Front arms swept back. Same as front swaybar but with the added benefit of it landing jumps better. I also feel like it tracks straighter on power.
-Thicker center diff oil. As thick as you can go while maintaining good consistency. 30-100k seems like a good spot for our car.
-Lower ride height. Go as low as you can while maintaining good bump or track irregularity clearance as well as jump landing ability.
-Chassis flex. No rear braces, and possibly loosen all the top and bottom screws (minus the center diff mounts) a quarter turn. This just helps slow down the movements of the car and make it more forgiving to drive.
-Steering speed and curve. Carpet is very direct and this just helps slow it down and make it more forgiving to drive.

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

The part that the screw threads into is already molded to the correct size, 1.6mm. The drilling required is to remove the flashing at the bottom of the hole to ensure that the hole goes all the way through the cap. I guess using a 1.5mm bit would ensure that you don't accidentally enlarge the hole by angling the bit or something like that so it's not a bad idea.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

thanks for clearing that up Matt I had assumed we needed to drill the whole thing out.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks for the info Matt!

Is there a certain piston size you find is getting pretty common on the rear for carpet? My vehicle felt pretty good stock however, but nothing wrong with finding an edge