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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
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Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 11-06-2017, 08:53 AM
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So the general observation with all the EB410's on the track is that they all seem to have the rear inside tire lift in the chicane's and this problem is mitigated with thicker fluid, however going too thick tends to cause the car to over rotate and get a bit twitchy. Some drivers can handle it just fine and prefer to have the extra steering response, one guy is running a B64 slipper and he loves it, though his fastest lap of the day was a 21.0.... it all comes down to driver preference, I don't think I'm skilled enough to handle the extra rotation.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
So the general observation with all the EB410's on the track is that they all seem to have the rear inside tire lift in the chicane's and this problem is mitigated with thicker fluid, however going too thick tends to cause the car to over rotate and get a bit twitchy. Some drivers can handle it just fine and prefer to have the extra steering response, one guy is running a B64 slipper and he loves it, though his fastest lap of the day was a 21.0.... it all comes down to driver preference, I don't think I'm skilled enough to handle the extra rotation.
when you say thicker any particular part of the vehicle they are running thicker oil (thicker front, thicker rear, etc).

Wonder if playing with the other sway bar options could help in that regards, heck, maybe even stiffer springs beyond what we currently have? (say, run fronts on rears?)
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I'm running 13.5T on turf, and played around with different fluids during this weekend, I was also trying different tires and made a rookie mistake by swapping tires for the main and completely fell apart and landed DFL after qualifying 2nd overall, doh!

with 15K my fastest lap was 20.9
with 30K my fastest lap was 20.7
with 60K my fastest lap was 21.2

I think I turned the second fastest lap at our club this week where the fastest lap was by a local pro at 20.5, he also noticed that I was pulling on him in the straights, no doubt my car was the most powerful 13.5T setup at the track, the Trinity MonsterMax is legit (with 24/81 gearing), I got mine from Eric Anderson and that dude knows how to tune them right, no need to buy a fancy "certified" motor:
https://teameamotorsports.com/collec...nster-max-13-5

For an average joe racer like me, my consistency is hit and miss so I'll plan to spend more time before I make a final decision on what's best for my driving style, but I'm really leaning toward 30K with only 1 race day with the car. Super happy and I will probably be selling my Shuey K2 soon
Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
So the general observation with all the EB410's on the track is that they all seem to have the rear inside tire lift in the chicane's and this problem is mitigated with thicker fluid, however going too thick tends to cause the car to over rotate and get a bit twitchy. Some drivers can handle it just fine and prefer to have the extra steering response, one guy is running a B64 slipper and he loves it, though his fastest lap of the day was a 21.0.... it all comes down to driver preference, I don't think I'm skilled enough to handle the extra rotation.
Have you by chance played with front sway bars to reduce the rear wheel lift? Or stiffer front springs?
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:59 AM
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Raceform just announced they poly shock towers. Looks interesting on paper, so I went to order a set. They want $10 in shipping! Small padded envelope, $10, why do companies still do this? F that, I'll let someone else be their guinea pig.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Jakesterama View Post
Raceform just announced they poly shock towers. Looks interesting on paper, so I went to order a set. They want $10 in shipping! Small padded envelope, $10, why do companies still do this? F that, I'll let someone else be their guinea pig.
Coming soon to FierceRC...Be patient, FastPete (aka FierceRC Pete on bookface) has us covered.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
when you say thicker any particular part of the vehicle they are running thicker oil (thicker front, thicker rear, etc).

Wonder if playing with the other sway bar options could help in that regards, heck, maybe even stiffer springs beyond what we currently have? (say, run fronts on rears?)
The only 3 things I focused on this week was tires, shock fluid and center diff fluid.... the changes I spoke of before were focused merely on the center diff fluid... I didn't reference the first qualifier and the Main because my standard deviation for those rounds were too far off to provide any meaningful data input.

Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Have you by chance played with front sway bars to reduce the rear wheel lift? Or stiffer front springs?
I ran thicker shock fluid in the first round plus a set of worn tires that pushed like crazy, didn't like the way the car handled the jumps so I went back to Matt's shock setup.

They don't make a thicker sway bar for the front, (currently running 1.4mm) so I might have to custom bend a 1.7mm bar, been meaning place another order from Tekno anyway.
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Jakesterama View Post
Raceform just announced they poly shock towers. Looks interesting on paper, so I went to order a set. They want $10 in shipping! Small padded envelope, $10, why do companies still do this? F that, I'll let someone else be their guinea pig.
I can get a 3mm sheet of Lexan at home depot. Ive already got all kinds of ideas
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:30 PM
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To reduce the inside rear lifting I would try a thinner swaybar in the rear. You can also try a lower roll center, if you're on the kit setup of 2C with two washers on the hub try taking out the washers. Or for a big difference, try going to 2B with no washers on the hub and 6 on the inner camber plate. The shorter link will help the car accelerate well with the roll center being so low.
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
To reduce the inside rear lifting I would try a thinner swaybar in the rear. You can also try a lower roll center, if you're on the kit setup of 2C with two washers on the hub try taking out the washers. Or for a big difference, try going to 2B with no washers on the hub and 6 on the inner camber plate. The shorter link will help the car accelerate well with the roll center being so low.
Much appreciated, I've got a 4 day race weekend coming up this week and the 1/10 turf track will be open for practice the whole time, so I plan to take full advantage of the time between rounds to get LOTS of practice on the turf and will try these suggestions, can't wait to burn some rubber!
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
To reduce the inside rear lifting I would try a thinner swaybar in the rear. You can also try a lower roll center, if you're on the kit setup of 2C with two washers on the hub try taking out the washers. Or for a big difference, try going to 2B with no washers on the hub and 6 on the inner camber plate. The shorter link will help the car accelerate well with the roll center being so low.
In general are you guys running long rear links on carpet? I tried some shorter links and liked how well it squared up, but curious if am approaching this incorrectly or there is a better way to achieve what I want, which is to free up the rear end just a bit more.

I also dont' run a front sway bar currently, would adding that help in regards as to the inside rear wheel lifting?


If all goes well, managed to snag another one
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Old 11-06-2017, 01:40 PM
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This is kind of an odd question, but because I have seen reports of the shock cap bleeder holes stripping easily, would it possibly help if I drilled the bleeder holes with a 1.5mm drill bit instead of the recommended 1.6mm bit? I figure perhaps the extra material will give it a tighter fit?
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Old 11-06-2017, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
In general are you guys running long rear links on carpet? I tried some shorter links and liked how well it squared up, but curious if am approaching this incorrectly or there is a better way to achieve what I want, which is to free up the rear end just a bit more.

I also dont' run a front sway bar currently, would adding that help in regards as to the inside rear wheel lifting?


If all goes well, managed to snag another one
One thing we learned after the IOCC race in Vegas was that carpet setups can vary greatly depending on the types of turns on the track, low speed, high speed, tight 180's, long sweepers, etc. We did a lot of testing at Ricochet RC in preparation for the IOCC race but the layouts were so different that we couldn't carry over a lot of the setup info we got from Ricochet to IOCC. IOCC had long sweeping high speed turns with only one 180 I think. In contrast Ricochet is almost all 180's with only one fast chicane.

At Ricochet we generally all liked short links front and rear, low roll centers, stood up shocks, soft rear springs and light oil, stiff front springs and heavy oil, med to heavy front swaybar, and light or no rear swaybar.

At IOCC they went to longer links front and rear, slightly higher roll centers in the rear, laid the shocks down front and rear, heavy springs/oil front and rear, and heavy swaybars front and rear.

If you look at Matt Wolters two setup sheets you can see the changes he made to his car for each track.


Ok, so as far as what seems to work on carpet tracks in general, here's my thoughts.
-Less rear toe. Helps free up the rear end and since there's so much traction you don't really need it to keep the rear locked in on power.
-Front sway bar. Really helps keep the front end flat into turns and can stop the front from collapsing and causing the rear inside to lift up. You can go too stiff so it's best to see what works for you as far as how stiff to go.
-Stiff front shocks. Same reasons as the sway bar. As long as your car can still land jumps well stiffer seems better.
-Front arms swept back. Same as front swaybar but with the added benefit of it landing jumps better. I also feel like it tracks straighter on power.
-Thicker center diff oil. As thick as you can go while maintaining good consistency. 30-100k seems like a good spot for our car.
-Lower ride height. Go as low as you can while maintaining good bump or track irregularity clearance as well as jump landing ability.
-Chassis flex. No rear braces, and possibly loosen all the top and bottom screws (minus the center diff mounts) a quarter turn. This just helps slow down the movements of the car and make it more forgiving to drive.
-Steering speed and curve. Carpet is very direct and this just helps slow it down and make it more forgiving to drive.
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Old 11-06-2017, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
This is kind of an odd question, but because I have seen reports of the shock cap bleeder holes stripping easily, would it possibly help if I drilled the bleeder holes with a 1.5mm drill bit instead of the recommended 1.6mm bit? I figure perhaps the extra material will give it a tighter fit?
The part that the screw threads into is already molded to the correct size, 1.6mm. The drilling required is to remove the flashing at the bottom of the hole to ensure that the hole goes all the way through the cap. I guess using a 1.5mm bit would ensure that you don't accidentally enlarge the hole by angling the bit or something like that so it's not a bad idea.
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Old 11-06-2017, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
The part that the screw threads into is already molded to the correct size, 1.6mm. The drilling required is to remove the flashing at the bottom of the hole to ensure that the hole goes all the way through the cap. I guess using a 1.5mm bit would ensure that you don't accidentally enlarge the hole by angling the bit or something like that so it's not a bad idea.
thanks for clearing that up Matt I had assumed we needed to drill the whole thing out.
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Old 11-06-2017, 04:15 PM
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Thanks for the info Matt!

Is there a certain piston size you find is getting pretty common on the rear for carpet? My vehicle felt pretty good stock however, but nothing wrong with finding an edge
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