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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 09-08-2017, 07:09 AM
  #976  
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I think it's only 2mm but dont quote me for front 4wd wheels. I use both with no prob on a b64 and b44.3
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:13 AM
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I believe they said it was a 1mm shim that was needed to run the front AE wheels, Losi wheels require no shim. And rear wheels all use same offset, but they offer longer threads on rear to allow thicker backspacing on the Losi wheels.




I'm getting ready to place an order for some Revolution bearings from AVID and I love seeing the larger 10x15x4 bearings are being used on the inner hubs to capture the pins on the CVD's
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Last edited by billdelong; 09-08-2017 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:13 AM
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Few questions:

- Can you get to all the setup change areas (change diff fluids, etc) without having to wrench on the chassis bottom? By that I mean, can I run a chassis protector and do setup changes without having to pull it off?

- Based on the layout being seen, what advantages do you gain other than weight by going with a low profile servo?

- Also, what is the max width servo you can fit there as it looks pretty compact.

Be curious to see what a fatter ESC looks like mounted there like a Tekin RSX or a Maclan MMax in comparison to the RS general model shown:

Tekin RS: 26 x 34 x 12.9mm
Tekin RSX: 31.2 x 37.2 x 21mm
Maclan MMax: 40 x 30 x 19mm
Hobbywing XR10 Pro: 37.5 x 30.9 x 31.6mm (w/Fan & Fan Shroud)
Orion HMX: 43.9 × 32.7 × 22.4mm

Not saying it won't fit or anything, just curious on some wiring strategies with say receivers like the R203GFE from futaba.
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Last edited by Cain; 09-08-2017 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
be curious to see what a fatter ESC looks like mounted there like a Tekin RSX or a Maclan MMax in comparison to the RS general model shown:

Tekin RS: 26 x 34 x 12.9mm
Tekin RSX: 31.2 x 37.2 x 21mm
Maclan MMax: 40 x 30 x 19mm
Hobbywing XR10 Pro: 37.5 x 30.9 x 31.6mm (w/Fan & Fan Shroud)
Orion HMX: 43.9 × 32.7 × 22.4mm

Not saying it won't fit or anything, just curious on some wiring strategies.
You read my mind. I realize they said they tested all of the popular ESCs and RXs, but what we see in the pic are two of the smallest examples on the market, and it's already tight. Take a Futaba RX and an XR10 Pro with a quad cap (or a Maclan!), and things might get interesting real quick.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason B
You read my mind. I realize they said they tested all of the popular ESCs and RXs, but what we see in the pic are two of the smallest examples on the market, and it's already tight. Take a Futaba RX and an XR10 Pro with a quad cap (or a Maclan!), and things might get interesting real quick.
yeah the mounting of the capacitors that the ESCs all use unless I am missing something is another area I am curious about as well. Maybe now with all this info released we can see pics of the vehicles that were actually being ran and there electronic mounting "strategies"
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:39 AM
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Looks amazing and this should continue to push the 4wd class into the spotlight in the US. The attention to details is awesome:
-Tekno logo on the pack using a pocket for the 'O'
-Hollowed out shock towers to keep them beefy but light
-Wire clips for the battery built into the brace and a pocket on the battery strap to hold the far wire down
-The fan mount for the motor makes me think they were planning to attack the 13.5 class from the start
-Velco pads for those who hate body clips
-Large lip on the front of the chassis to keep out debris out of the electronics

Can't wait to race against them on the track!

I hope this car excels on loose tracks as well as high traction without just throwing weight at it, but I'm not convinced at the moment. A big reason for the rear weight bias that current vehicles maintain in the face of increasing traction is due to the larger rear tires on 10th scale vehicles vs the uniform tire size on 8th scale. When the Durango 4wd first came out with such a bias towards the front, slapping a brass skidplate on to add 60g to the rear was standard practice for medium to low grip tracks. Looking forward to what setups they come up with once the car hits the wild.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:40 AM
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For those curious about the hex spacers to run the front AE wheels, here they are:
12mm Hex Track Width Spacers | Carbon | Set Accessorie AV1044-S-SET
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:47 AM
  #983  
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00
I know Tekno mentioned using AE wheels as a tuning option. Can anyone tell me how many mm difference between Losi and AE offsets? I did a search and can't find it anywhere. Thanks in advance!
losi 22-4 are direct fit front and rear....AE front's fit withthe +1 optional hex...

As far as difference beyond that, not sure.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ezlight
losi 22-4 are direct fit front and rear....AE front's fit withthe +1 optional hex...

As far as difference beyond that, not sure.
I think his question was more geared toward track width (at least that's how I interpreted it) - clearing the components on the car is one thing, but track width could be a separate matter. I'm honestly not sure
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:53 AM
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Depending on the manufacturer, B64 front wheels are 1-2mm narrower track width per side than 22-4 wheels. I use 22-4 wheels on my B64 from DE and they increase the width 2-3mm total over wheels from AE.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:58 AM
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Plenty of space at the rear for adding weight per lower bite conditions.
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio
...

I hope this car excels on loose tracks as well as high traction without just throwing weight at it, but I'm not convinced at the moment. A big reason for the rear weight bias that current vehicles maintain in the face of increasing traction is due to the larger rear tires on 10th scale vehicles vs the uniform tire size on 8th scale. When the Durango 4wd first came out with such a bias towards the front, slapping a brass skidplate on to add 60g to the rear was standard practice for medium to low grip tracks. Looking forward to what setups they come up with once the car hits the wild.
I think that is the thing I am curious about as well here is how the vehicle will handle loose tracks relative to the weight being so far forward. The vehicle will release towards the end of our outdoor season and afterwards its carpet time, so probably won't get any first hand experiences with it here till next year for our conditions which are basically just untreated black dirt at this point.

The various milling areas I was curious to see if something would have like a built in screw hole so you could just mount weights there that fit the milling sections to keep the weight as low as possible. Maybe something could be released if needed that just sticks on but is made to fit those areas for a nice factory look.

All in all though, based on how they described changes in the surfaces we run on, I am not too surprised by what was shown in addition if we see any issues running the vehicle in places that are not high grip.

One thing though, considering Tekno's experience with getting vehicles to work well in conditions that are low grip that have the electronics weight pretty far forward, if anyone can, it'll be them.

The tranny shims too may help as well. Its been a bit help at least for me in 2wd buggy with my Yokomo which was known to be very light in the rear. so much so they helped in addition to the standup Dirt tranny I haven't added any weight to the rear. But without the shims, would be spin city here.
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
When I 1st saw this pic i thought was is the chassis mounted backwards. It's a very innovative chassis design and looks amazing !!!!
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Norse
Plenty of space at the rear for adding weight per lower bite conditions.
For sure, but if they had an additional set of bolt holes for the center diff to move it back 10-15mm, you wouldn't have to add weight at all. I just wonder if an aftermarket company will make that option first or if Tekno will.

Or if they find that moving the shocks to the front of the rear arms helps, then moving the center diff back a tad to keep the same weight bias. Just random thoughts about future adjust-ability.
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:07 AM
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Matt mentioned an updated servo horn would be released for the EB410 close to the release date. I hope they can share some details regarding other option parts that are going to be available (and when?) or may be in the works for this car such as hexes, pinions, sway bars and springs etc...
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