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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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10-19-2017, 10:41 AM

#1726

MattDub

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Just wanted to give you guys a starting point if you are using a Tekin Gen3 Spec R 13.5 since they gear quite differently than typical motors.

Start with around a 24t pinion for a medium sized clay track. On a small indoor carpet track we used a 23t and at IOCC (carpet with sweeping corners and long straight) I was using a 25t.

Also be sure to use a high-velocity fan and vent the body behind the motor and near the fan so it can get cool air. This helped keep punch consistent for the entire 7min race.

Oh and no one was pulling me on the straight, these motors are fast and only used about 1700mah in a 7min main!

mrniss99 and ezlight like this.

10-19-2017, 10:45 AM

#1727

Allen Drebi

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now if I could only paint bodies!
EB410 Purple Edition

IMG_3192 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3203 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3200 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3199 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3195 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3194 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

Cain, renjie, HeavyD99 and 9 others like this.

10-19-2017, 10:55 AM

#1728

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen Drebi

now if I could only paint bodies!
EB410 Purple Edition

Sweet looking rig my friend! I am in the same boat as far as lack of paint skills go so I am going to be doing a nice solid coat of Galactic Purple lol.

10-19-2017, 11:35 AM

#1729

charvel74

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MattDub

Is that with the stock fan mount or the carbon fiber version that's on top

10-19-2017, 12:10 PM

#1730

AccessRacer

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AJrollin

OK...so just got back from OCRC. Track was medium to slightly high grip in some spots today. So the car was not good...it was GREAT!!! I initially had a on power push, but that was because I put on transistors on the front anticipating insane steering, I then switched to electrons and moved the rear arms forward 2mm..BAM!! full second faster than my 22 4 and Xray and that was after 2 runs. Car felt very easy yet nimble to drive, felt very comfortable with it quickly. I ran the car box stock, stock fluids and setup except for the wheel base change per Jake Thayers recommendation. I also tried space Bars, Positrons and Dirt Webs, I settled on slightly worn Dirt webs as it hooked up great, Space Bars were great also. The car was little too planted in the back with the Space Bars and this was with brand new ones. Anyone concerned about this car being loose on medium grip clay track with stock setup should have no concerns at all. Car jumps, lands as good if not better than my 22 4 2.0...This thing sticks and goes like no other I have driven. I honestly have zero issues with this car from the build to driving, as a matter a fact I would have raced it tonight over my Losi or Xray, but could'nt stay for racing..that is how good the car felt. I seriously would suggest trying it box stock first before changing anything. One thing to note, I removed the center diff just to inspect and it is a little tricky getting it back in..not a big deal, once you do it a few times it goes right in.

I have to say for Tekno's first shot at 4wd 1/10 buggy they got it right..hats off

How did you get the rear arms to move 2mm forward when there is only a 1mm shim in front of the arm?

10-19-2017, 12:39 PM

#1731

AJrollin

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yes you are correct it was 1mm, not sure why I was thinking 2mm. arms are all the way forward.

10-19-2017, 12:41 PM

#1732

Krio

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AccessRacer

How did you get the rear arms to move 2mm forward when there is only a 1mm shim in front of the arm?

*chk*
"Paging Dr. Dremel. You're presence is required for an arm relocation."
*chk*

10-19-2017, 12:45 PM

#1733

AJrollin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by celt

I need to confirm just one thing...

Does the car turn? Can stand a car that doesn't turn.

Yes it turns , just not that much with stock setup(on power push) imo. I believe the stock setup is intended for medium grip with an intermediate driver, so it my be fine for someone like that.On the first day I did some very minimal stuff to see a good improvement, but as I get more used to the car I will probably want even more steering, so Ill be changing diff fluid and a couple other things. Car is very planted and just drives realy nice..steering should be very easy to dial in as needed

10-19-2017, 01:05 PM

#1734

MattDub

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Quote:

Originally Posted by charvel74

Is that with the stock fan mount or the carbon fiber version that's on top

I use the carbon, but the same guidelines will work for the stock fan mount as well.

10-19-2017, 03:01 PM

#1735

charvel74

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MattDub

I use the carbon, but the same guidelines will work for the stock fan mount as well.

I'm using the stock fan mount. Sticks out of the side of the body lol

10-19-2017, 03:43 PM

#1736

suzukipro

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When making final camber adjustments on the car I had a rod end pop off. I' ll reserve judgement of the stock ball cups until I actually get some run time on the car, but with a quick test fit, B5 rod ends should work too.

10-19-2017, 03:55 PM

#1737

Matthew_Armeni

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AJrollin

Try less ackermann. I run 8 washers on the ackermann plate for more on-power and low speed steering.

Quote:

Originally Posted by suzukipro

Did you use chapstick or grease when assembling the turnbuckles? The turnbuckles thread in very far, without the grease or chapstick the threads will not turn easily and can pop the ends off of the ball studs during adjustment.
For the record, we never had a single rod end pop off during on track testing.

And yes, B5 and B6 ends should fit as our ball studs are 5.5mm. There is a slight height difference on the ball studs though.

keyesgood likes this.

10-19-2017, 03:58 PM

#1738

blueflagger

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Quote:

Originally Posted by suzukipro

How much lube/grease/chapstick did you use on the threads? This was my first build and went the chapstick route. Haven't had a rod-end pop yet.

10-19-2017, 05:22 PM

#1739

suzukipro

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Quote:

Originally Posted by blueflagger

How much lube/grease/chapstick did you use on the threads? This was my first build and went the chapstick route. Haven't had a rod-end pop yet.

None on the 1st set (likely the one that came off)

I pre threaded the others using a drill with the camber link. I haven't heard of this being an issue while driving, but it is good to know the B5/6 rod ends will work if you break as Tekno rod ends are currently unavailable.

10-19-2017, 08:17 PM

#1740

E-Mann

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen Drebi

now if I could only paint bodies!
EB410 Purple Edition

IMG_3192 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3203 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3200 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3199 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3195 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

IMG_3194 by Allen Drebi, on Flickr

These pics deserve another look. Very nice!

When you replaced the stock shock screws did you need to tap the left side for the cap head screws to thread?